cat Noir.—15. The Red Frontiniac, or Muscat Rouge.—16. The White Frontiniac, or Muscat Blanc.—17. The Grizzly Frontiniac.—18. The Red Hamburgh.—19. The White Hamburgh.—20. The White Morillon.—21. The Early White Grape of Teneriffe.—22. The Ciotat, or White Parsley-leaved Grape.—23. The White Corinth.—24. The Aleppo Grape.—25. The Red Grape of Syracuse.—26. The Cœur, or Morocco Grape.—27. The Black Raisin.—28. The White Raisin.—29. The Malvoise, or Blue Tokay.—30, The Genuine, or White Tokay.—31. The Lombardy.—32. The Smyrna.—33. The Brick.—34. The Claret.—35. The Syrian Grape.—36. The Auverna, or Genuine Burgundy.—37. The Cat's Grape.—38. The Greek Grape.—39. the Black Corinth.—40. The Cornichon.—41. The Red Chaselas.—42. The Black Prince.—43. The Black Burgundy.—And, 44. The White Early Leipzig.—See also vol. iii. p. 311.
To these may be added, the White, or Common Muscadine, having fine, round amber-coloured berries, and a rich vinous flavour.—The White Sweet-water, which bears large, white fruit, and abounds with an agreeable juice.—The Small Black Cluster, produces oval berries, which have a pleasant saccharine taste.—The large Black Cluster presents more bulky grapes than the preceding variety; but which, on account of their rough, harsh taste, are not edible in a fresh state, and therefore chiefly converted into Port-wine.—The Miller Grape, or New Muscat of Jerusalem, yields large, round, red fruit; which, in prosperous seasons, attains nearly the size of gooseberries.—The Black Hamburgh produces fine clusters of oval, black berries, that possess a sweet, vinous flavour.—All these varieties are recommended by horticulturists, as being eminently adapted to small gardens.—It is a remarkable historical fact, that, a few centuries since, the extensive Vale of Gloucester was industriously planted with this delightful shrub; from the grapes of which, England was then chiefly supplied with excellent native wines.
The vine is generally propagated from seed, cuttings, or layers; though it is sometimes raised by engrafting, or inoculation. In the first case, the seed should be set toward the end of February, or early in March, in pots containing light rich mould; and be plunged in hot-beds of a moderate heat. During warm weather, they ought to be gently watered in the afternoon, when the frames should be carefully closed. About the end of August, the young plants are to be gradually exposed to the air, so that they may become hardened before the approach of winter; but, in the latter season, they must be sheltered by frames, covered with mats. After having attained the height of about six inches, it will be proper to remove them into larger pots, filled with similar soil; to immerse them again in the hot-bed; and to tie them to slender sticks, or rods, in order to prevent them from trailing. Towards the end of the succeeding March, or in the beginning of April, they may be planted against the wall, at which they are intended to remain. In this situation, Mr. Forsyth directs them to be cut at the third eye, if they be vigorous; but,
in
