Popular Mechanics/Volume 49/Issue 1/Making the Old Pump New
Making the Old Pump New
By L. B. ROBBINS
When a pump commences to gurgle, suck and whistle at each stroke of the handle you may feel assured that some thing is wrong. Either the leathers are worn out or some air leak has developed, in the pump castings or in the pipe line above or below ground. In the majority of cases this will be found to be due to worn leathers.
For maximum efficiency, a pump depends upon a vacuum being created in the cylinder at each upstroke of the plunger. If air leaks past, this vacuum is destroyed and water will refuse to rise in the pipe. It is then that pumping water becomes a soul-searing and back-breaking job.
Now, it doesn't take a great deal of work to transform a leaky pump that requires 75 strokes to the bucket to one that will lift the same amount of water in 25 strokes or less. In the majority of cases the trouble will be located in defective leathers. Nowadays it is a comparatively simple matter to change leathers, because so many pumps can be fitted with standard-size factory-cut leathers. It is simply a matter of taking the pump apart, inserting the new leathers and then reassembling as before.
Above, the Plunger Spider: Upper Right, Form of Deck Leather and Weight: Center. Removing the Cylinder
There are essentially two types of dwelling-house pumps; the pitcher pump and the force pump. The former is found everywhere, and consists simply of an open-ended metal cylinder in which works a plunger with a lifting valve in the center. Between the bottom end of the cylinder and the pipe there is another valve, or deck leather. As the plunger is pushed down, the deck-leather valve closes and the plunger valve opens, thus allowing any water above the deck leather to pass through the plunger instead of being forced down into the well. When the plunger rises, the water thus brought over it is raised higher and the suction below it lifts the deck-leather valve, and water in the pipe rises for the next stroke. In this way a more or less continuous stream of water is lifted from the depths and flows from the top of the cylinder through the open spout or "pitcher" lip. Varied forms of the pitcher pump exist, but the essentials of operation are identical.
The force pump makes use of the same principle, but the cylinder is entirely closed and the lifted water is directed into a closed chamber called the air dome. In there it comes into contact with a body of air which after compression by the in-flowing water, forces the water in a continuous and steady stream to a considerable distance or height. The compressed air forms a wonderfully powerful cushion and in this manner creates an internal pressure very useful in filling overhead tanks or projecting the pumped water along a rising pipe line.
Deep-well pumps are essentially the same as the simple shallow-well pumps except the pumping cylinder may be separated many feet from the pump body. This is because the plunger can only operate at a maximum of about 28 ft. above water level. Therefore, for a 50-ft. well, the cylinder must be placed in a pit or driven to within at least 28 ft. of the water level, and the plunger operated from above ground by a long rod running down through the pipe to the plunger rod in the cylinder.
The leathering of any of these types of pumps is essentially the same. Where the entire pump is above ground, the job is simple. If one or more cylinders are below ground the job becomes more difficult. But the leathering job remains the same; the plunger and the deck leather must be renewed.
The first thing to do with a shallow-well pump is to trip the water out by forcing the plunger down until you hear a sucking noise and the water drops back into the well. Then loosen the bolts holding the cylinder and the base casting together and lift the cylinder off. This exposes the deck leather, shown clearly in the photograph illustrating this operation. The drawing on page 165 also shows the shape of a typical deck leather and its component parts. It consists of a circular ring of stiff leather inside of which is a round leather disk attached to the ring at one side. The open space between is horseshoe-shaped and permits the passage of water. A weight fastened to the disk helps to force it in place over the deck opening and thus make it a quicker-operating and tighter-fitting valve.
Remove this leather carefully so as not to score the metal deck or seat. If it is hard or cracked it should be discarded and a new leather provided. Remove the clapper weight by taking out the retaining screw in the center. Fit this on the new leather in its proper position, which is with the raised lug over the hinge. If no ready-cut leather can be obtained, a suitable one can be cut from a piece of 1⁄8-in. oak-tanned stock by placing the old one over it as a pattern and marking around it with a pencil. Then cut the new one out with a sharp knife and fit the clapper weight to it. If the old leather is beyond use as a pattern, place the new piece of leather over the deck and tap it gently but firmly with the ball end of a ball-peen hammer around the outside edge and the edge of the pipe opening. When removed. the markings of the metal edges will be plainly visible and can be followed with the cutting knife.
Before the new deck leather is placed in position, wipe the deck clean of any dirt or grit. If any slight bits of nicked metal exist along the surface, smooth them off with a fine emery stone. Soak the new leather in water an hour or two to thoroughly soften it and then lay it carefully on the deck. still wet, placing the weight uppermost. When in the proper position, place the cylinder carefully upon it so as not to disturb its position, reinsert the bolts and take up on them slowly and evenly until the leather is firmly clamped in position. Use care in taking up on these bolts, taking a part of a turn on each one at a time. This will compress the leather evenly and also prevent clamping down one side before the other, and thus insure even pressure and eliminate chances of cracking the casting from uneven pressure on either side.
On deep-well pumps the cylinder must, of course, be removed from the pipe line before the packing can be accomplished. If it is in a pit, it is only a matter of removing the pipe from above and the sections of wooden plunger rod, and then releasing the cylinder from its base. Otherwise it must be pulled up with a pump puller and raised above ground until it can he dismantled. In any case the method of replacing is essentially as previously described for a simple aboveground pump.
Center, Soaking Deck and Cup Leathers; Below, Forming New Cup Leather
Most plungers are constructed similar to the one shown in the photographs. To releather, clamp the spider carefully but firmly in a vise and then turn off the plunger end which threads onto the spider. The old leather can then be removed. If the retaining nut turns off hard, be especially careful in removing so as not to strain the spider to the cracking point. Turn it up a bit and then in the opposite direction until it will start. Sometimes a tap with a cold chisel in one of the notches will serve to start it. For general use a large pipe wrench is best suited for this job although there are special spanners that come with some makes of pumps for this purpose.
When disassembled, clean the threads on the spider and retaining nut and graphite them. Then slip the new cup leather in position, replace the nut and take up on it until the leather is held firmly in position, using care, of course, with this procedure. If a ready-cut cup leather cannot be procured, here is an excellent method of making one at home, using 1⁄8-in. oak-tanned leather as material. Put the leather to soak in water for at least 24 hours while making the former, herein described.
Using an expansion bit, bore a hole in the center of a hardwood block 4 in. larger than the diameter of the plunger, and 11⁄2 in. deep. Then fashion a round plug of hardwood just the diameter of the plunger and about 3 or 4 in. long. Thoroughly oil both pieces, provide some strong cord and have a large bench vise handy. When the leather is sufficiently pliable, place it over the hole in the block and then place the plug end upon it directly over the hole. Carefully turn the entire assembly on its side and place between the vise jaws. Then slowly turn up on the vise and push the plug into the hole, carrying the leather with it. Work very slowly so the leather will stretch over the plug during the process. When the bottom of the hole has been reached. leave the job alone until the leather has thoroughly dried out or, if the vise must be used for other purposes, tie block and plug together with the cord, as shown in drawing and set aside to dry.
Left, Replacing Air-Dome Gasket; Center, Wiping Off Deck-Leather Seat; Right, Tightening Down Cylinder
When the leather is bone-dry, take off the cord, pull out the plug, and a nicely formed cup leather will be the result. Trim off the edges with a sharp knife, bevel the top edge on the inside, and then cut a round hole in the bottom to fit snugly around the retaining nut of the plunger.
With the new leather on the plunger, soak it in water again until softened and then insert in the pump cylinder and push down until the top of the rod can be again connected to the pump handle. It is also a good plan, with unlined cylinders, to wipe out the inside with very fine emery paper to remove any rust coating that may have formed through the years. This rough surface is particularly hard on leathers and wears them out before their time. Keep the cylinder walls clean and bright and the leathers will last much longer than would otherwise be the case.
The air domes on force pumps are usually provided with leather gaskets between them and the cylinder connection. When these grow hard they should be renewed. They can be cut from leather or sheet rubber, using the old one as a pattern, or marked out, as previously mentioned, with a ball-peen hammer. Leather gaskets are best, but for this purpose a thinner stock can be used than for the section leathers.
After the pump has been releathered and assembled a few days, it will be wise to go over all bolts and take up adjustments. New leather is flexible and it will probably be found that a turn or two can be taken up on all adjustments as the leather compresses. This will insure an air-tight job and give a positive vacuum in the cylinder. The plunger will, of course, have to be removed and the retaining nut turned up in the vise as before. If the cup leather has swollen too much and it works unduly hard, shave off a little from the edges with a safety-razor blade.
Now with the pump newly releathered, it should hold water indefinitely. If the water still persists in dropping back and the pump needs priming each time it is used, you may feel absolutely sure the leak is in the mechanical end of the affair. Go over all connections to see that they are drawn up tight. Inspect the castings and pipe sections above ground for cracks or leaky couplings. If possible, grab the pump base with a large pipe wrench and turn clockwise, rotating the entire pipe line and strainer point in the ground. This will take up any loose threads that may have developed, due to threads corroding over a long period of time. Do not, however, turn the pipe backward, as threads will undoubtedly be loosened, and you will be worse off than before. In making up new connections, always use plenty of lead in the joints and turn them well home, and leaky joints will be practically impossible. By attending to this while sinking a well and assembling a pump, about the only trouble that can develop will be cracked parts due to freezing or overstrain in assembling, or faulty leathers. Other things being equal, water should flow freely always.
Accurate Perpendiculars with a 2-Ft. Rule
The 2-ft. rule is the faithful standby of the rough-and-ready draftsman who makes sketches on the job. To draw a fairly accurate perpendicular to a line not parallel with an edge of the sheet or pad is not so easy to do but often necessary to the correctness of a sketch. The photo shows how a perpendicular can be drawn which will be about as correct as any circumstance will require. Lay the rule down along the line, then lay a dollar or washer on one side of the circular middle-joint hinge of the rule, and touching it, and scribe an arc. Place the dollar on the other side and scribe another. Draw a line through the two points where the arcs intersect. This line will be perpendicular and as correct as necessary.
How to Draw a Perpendicular to a Horizontal Line with an Ordinary 2-Ft. Rule
Dolly for Handling Baled Hay
Handy Dolly, Which Can Be Swung in Any Direction, Made from Old Roller Skates
When any great number of bales of hay have to be moved across the floor it becomes a heavy and tiresome task. To alleviate some of this work a dolly, as shown in the illustration, can easily be made from odds and ends. Build a small plank platform of short boards and cleat them solidly from underneath with similar stout boards. Make it about the size of a bale of hay. Fasten four roller-bearings casters, one to each corner, or four wheels removed from a pair of old roller skates. In the latter case, see that the wheels are pivoted so that they will turn in any direction.—L. B. Robbins, Harwich, Mass.
Drilling Chilled Cast Iron
Iron castings, made in chilled molds, are frequently too hard to drill. Even highspeed drills and turpentine will fail to break through the surface of the casting. The trouble can, however, be remedied in the following way: Place a lump of sulphur on the spot to be drilled and slowly bring the casting to a red heat, then allow it to cool off. This will soften the spot so that the drill will cut it readily.—G. A. Luers, Washington, D. C.
Pulling a Driven Well Pipe
Easy Method of Removing a Driven Well Pipe from the Ground
It was desired to salvage the driven pipe of an old well. Usually a driven pipe is abandoned because of the difficulty connected with its removal, but in this case the task was simplified considerably and the pipe was removed without much difficulty. A post was set about 2 ft. on one side of the pipe, the top being about 4 ft. from the ground. The crosspiece, a length of 4 by 6-in. wood, was fastened to the post at one end and at the other end it was set on a screw jack, properly supported. A chain was fastened to the crosspiece in the center, and to the pipe, on which a cap was screwed. First the jack was turned up until the chain was tight. The pipe was then struck a few light blows with a sledge while the jack pressure was being increased. In this way, combining pipe vibration with a constant pull, the pipe was readily pulled out.
Softening Hard Leather Belting
I had some old leather belting that had not been used for several years. To my knowledge it had been around the shop for over 30 years. Needing some belting I was forced to make use of this old piece, which was made soft and pliable in the following way: I filled a tub with boiling water and poured in about a gallon of old engine oil, which floated on top of the water. I dipped the belting to the bottom of the tub and allowed it to soak a few moments. Then I lifted it slowly through the layer of oil and repeated the operation several times. Within 15 min. the leather was as soft and pliable as though it had just been removed from a machine. The boiling water had opened up the pores of the leather and on removing it from the water, the hot oil had penetrated the pores and completely filled them. The belt is still in use after some years and is apparently good for many more.—L. B. Robbins, Harwich, Mass.
Improvised Electric Crucible
A small crucible that can be used for melting chemicals and soft metals can readily be constructed, using only a porcelain lamp socket and the element of an electric heater. The socket is mounted on a small base of marble, slate or bakelite, about 6 in. square. The heating element is screwed into this socket. The heater should be of the kind, that is shaped like a cup, which is mostly used in reflecting heaters. A small clay crucible is easily slipped into this cup-shaped opening. If no crucible is available, a clay pipe with the stem broken off and the hole plugged will do. A length of lampcord and plug is connected to the socket and plugged with this outfit in a few minutes. It can be placed in a metal box or case so that the heat will not be dissipated into the surrounding air, although this is not absolutely necessary. For melting lead and soft metals, such an improvised crucible is convenient, as a cupful of scrap lead will melt in less than half a minute.—Herman R. Wallin, Brooklyn, N. Y.