Report of a Tour through the Bengal Provinces/Jâru

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JÂRU.

The river Nairanjana divides into two branches a little way above the Nâgârjuna hills. One branch passes close to the hills to its east, the other runs further eastwards, and again divides into two, of which the western branch runs a short way and is lost, and the eastern branch runs past Islâmpur. Of these three branches of the Nairanjan, the westernmost one is the main river; the others are dry, except in the rains. Immediately at the angle of the first fork are the ruins of a masjid. This masjid is built of brick and mortar; stone is also used, but the stone is evidently taken from some Hindu structure. It was once a fine masjid; it stands at one end of a court-yard which was once surrounded by cloisters, the cells having each a small domed roof. The masjid itself is roofed by numerous small domes. Vaults exist underneath. The entrance to the court-yard is through a small chamber with narrow doorways. It is remarkable that old masjids in this district, of which the court-yards and outer entrances still exist, have all small narrow entrances, extremely unlike the superb entrances to the masjids in Delhi and Jaunpur. The masjid here is ascribed, but only on tradition, to Shir Shah’s time, and the style of the building bears out this tradition, and tends rather to ascribe to it a higher antiquity. I am myself inclined to adopt the traditional account of its age, for though the small domes point to a period anterior to Shir Shah, the fine lime enamelling used and still to be found in small patches indicates a later period. Colour and inscriptions were liberally used, but the inscriptions are all too far broken to be intelligible, and most of the coloured work has peeled away. It is deserted now, but is still visited on particular festivals.

Close to and behind the masjid is the village of Jâru, and behind the village is a chain of rugged hills, at the foot of which are occasionally to be seen dressed stone and other remnants of old Hindu work. On the summit of the highest peak, which is crowned by a picturesque clump of trees (the rest of the hill being quite bare), is a large lingam, known as Harihar Nâth Mahâdeva. The story goes that pilgrims, who on their journey to it do not speak at all, can encircle the lingam completely with their arms and hands. The place is visited by numerous pilgrims, and I have no doubt it was at one time a notable place of Hindu worship.

A few miles south of the fork, on the east side of the Nairanjan or Phalgu river, stands a group of bare rocky hills crowned by the dargah of a Muhammadan saint; it is otherwise devoid of interest.