Scrambles amongst the Alps

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CONTENTS

1860

CHAPTER I.

Pages 1-13

CHAPTER II.

THE VALLEYS OF DAUPHINÉ—THE PEAKS OF DAUPHINÉ—MISTAKES IN THEIR IDENTIFICATION—EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONT PELVOUX—INTRODUCTION TO MONSIEUR REYNAUD—THE "ASSOCIATION ALIMENTAIRE" OF GRENOBLE—MEETING WITH MACDONALD—CROSS THE COL DE LAUTARET—NATIONAL SENTIMENTSWE ENGAGE A GUIDE—START FOR PELVOUX—PASS THE CAVERN OF THE VAUDOIS—MASSACRE OF THE VAUDOISFIRST NIGHT OUT—WE ARE REPULSED—ARRIVAL OF MACDONALD—THIRD NIGHT OUT—TORRENTS ON FIRE—FALLING ROCKS—ASCENT OF THE PELVOUX—THE PYRAMID—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—WE DISCOVER THE POINTE DES ECRINS—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—ON FLEAS—EN ROUTE FOR MONTE VISO—VALUE OF THE PASSPORT SYSTEM—DESERTERS—CAMP ON AN ANT-HILL—ST. VERAN—PRIMITIVE MANNERS—NATURAL PILLARS—ARRIVE AT BRIANCON

14-45

CHAPTER III.

46-79

CHAPTER IV.

INTRODUCTION TO JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL—SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES IN REGARD TO THE MATTERHORN—RIDGES OF THE MATTERHORNEARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN—ATTEMPT BY THE MESSRS. PARKER—ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. HAWKINS AND TYNDALL—ARRIVE AT BREIL—UNWILLINGNESS OF THE GUIDES TO HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE MATTERHORN—THE CARRELS ENDEAVOUR TO CUT US OUT—THE 'GREAT STAIRCASE'—WE DECIDE TO CAMP ON THE COL DU LION—GREAT EXCITEMENT FROM FALLING STONES—LIGHT AND SHADE—THE 'CHIMNEY'—DEFEATED—A COOL PROCEEDING

80-95

1862

CHAPTER V.

MR. KENNEDY'S WINTER ATTEMPT—BENNEN REFUSES TO START AGAIN—THE THEODULE PASS—MEYNET, THE HUNCHBACK OF BREILON ALPINE TENTS—MACDONALD AND I START FOR THE MATTERHORN—NARROW ESCAPE OF KRONIG—VIOLENT WIND TURNS US BACK—ENGAGE CARREL AND PESSION AND START AGAIN—THE 'GREAT TOWER'—PESSION BECOMES ILL AND WE ARE OBLIGED TO RETURN—BAD WEATHER—SCRAMBLE ALONE ON THE MATTERHORNPIONEERS OF VEGETATION—VIEW FROM THE TENT—A SOLITARY BIVOUAC—MONTE VISO SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AT NINETY-EIGHT MILES' DISTANCE—ON AIDS TO CLIMBERS—CLIMBING CLAW—FIND A NEW PLACE FOR THE TENT—DIFFICULTY AND DANGERON FOOLHARDINESS—I ATTAIN A GREATER ALTITUDE ALONE THAN HAD BEEN REACHED BEFORE, AND NEARLY COME TO GRIEF—MY FOURTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—DEFEATED AGAIN BY WEATHER—THE CARRELS GO MARMOT-HUNTING, AND WE START FOR A FIFTH ATTEMPT—DEFEATED BY NATURAL DIFFICULTIES—TYNDALL ARRIVES AND CARRIES OFF THE CARRELS—A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN—TYNDALL IS REPULSED-CONFLAGRATION IN DAUPHINÉ

96-130

1863

CHAPTER VI.

THE DOUANE—"BUT WHAT IS THIS?"—DIFFICULTIES WITH MY LADDER—EXPLANATION OF TYNDALL'S REPULSEROMAN (?) AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE—ASCEND THE CIMES BLANCHES—WE DECEIVE A GOAT—NEW PASS TO ZERMATT (BREUILJOCH)—AQUEOUS AND GLACIER EROSION-GLACIER VERSUS ROCKS—RESULTING FORMS (ROCHES MOUTONNÉES)—MOTION OF GLACIERS PREVENTS THE ICE FROM BEING

FORCED INTO HOLLOWS—PROJECTIONS ALONE SUFFER—CONSEQUENT FLATTENING OF ROCK-SURFACES—ROCHES NIVELEES—STRIATIONS AND THEIR MEANING—VIOLENT GLACIAL ACTION IN ICELAND—ROTUNDITY OF ROCHES MOUTONNEES PROVES A SMALL AMOUNT OF EROSION—ON LEE-SIDES—THE EROSIVE POWER OF A GLACIER CONSTANTLY DIMINISHES—CONSERVATION OF ROCKS—SEILER'S DISINTERESTEDNESS—THE MATTERHORN CLIFFSEXTRAORDINARY ACCIDENT TO A CHAMOIS—COL DE VALPELLINE—THE MASTER OF PRERAYEN—ATTEMPT TO ASCEND DENT D'ERIN (D'HERENS)—THE VA CORNÈRE PASS—ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN—SPLENDID VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—ON PANORAMIC VIEWSGOUFFRE DES BUSSERAILLES—AN ENTERPRISING INNKEEPER

131-168

CHAPTER VII.

EXTREMES MEET—THUNDER AND LIGHTNING—ECHOES OF THUNDER—GREAT ROCK—FALLS DURING THE NIGHT—DEFEATED BY THE WEATHER—MYSTERIOUS MISTS

169-178

1864

CHAPTER VIII.

MICHEL CROZ—COL DE VALLOIRES—THE AIGUILLES D'ARVE—WE MAKE A PASS BETWEEN THEM—COL DE MARTIGNARE—ASCENT OF THE AIG. DE LA SAUSSE—THE MEIJE—BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJEMELCHIOR ANDEREGG—LA GRAVE—THE BRÈCHE IS WONTHE VALLON DES ETANÇONS

179-200

CHAPTER IX.

BIVOUAC ON THE GLACIER DE LA BONNE PIERRE—DISSOLVING VIEWS—DRYNESS OF THE AIR—TOPOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL DAUPHINE ALPS—FIRST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE ECRINS—A MIGHTY AVALANCHE—OUR ASCENT OF THE FINAL PEAKON SPLINTERS FROM SUMMITSLE JEU NE VAUT PAS LA CHANDELLE—SHATTERED RIDGE—ALMER'S LEAP—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—A WARNING

201-221

CHAPTER X.

CHALETS OF ENTRAIGUES—ARRIVAL OF REYNAUDON SNOW COULOIRS—SUMMIT OF THE COL—EXCITING DESCENT—REYNAUD COMES OVER THE SCHRUNDTHE LAST OF DAUPHINÉ

222-231

CHAPTER XI.

MAPS OF MONT BLANC—MR. ADAMS-REILLY—OUR COMPACT—THE PEAKS OF THE MONT BLANC RANGE—ACROSS THE COL DE TRIOLET—A MINIATURE ASCENT—REILLY ADVOCATES PATIENCE—BIVOUAC ON MONT SUC—ASCENT OF AIG. DE TRÉLATÊTE—THE MORAINE OF THE MIAGE—ON MORAINES IN GENERAL—ERRONEOUS VIEWS RESPECTING THEM—MORAINES IN GREENLAND—OUR FIRST ATTEMPT TO ASCEND AIG. D'ARGENTIÈRE—A CONCEALED CAVERN—SUCCESS AT LAST—MR. REILLY'S MAP

232-252

CHAPTER XII.

SWISS MENDICANTS—NIGHT ON THE ARPITETTA ALP—A PERILOUS PATH—ICE-AVALANCHE—SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS—CROZ DISTINGUISHES HIMSELF—THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT

253-262

1865

CHAPTER XIII.

ON CHOICE OF ROUTES—REGRETS—ZINAL—ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER—EFFECTS OF SUN AND FROST—GREAT RIDGES SUFFER MOST—POINTS OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ATMOSPHERIC AND GLACIER EROSION—ABRICOLLA

263-273

CHAPTER XIV.

LESLIE STEPHEN—KENNEDY'S ASCENT—ON BERGSCHRUNDS—UNWELCOME ATTENTIONS—A RACE FOR LIFE—BENIGHTED—A SURPRISE

274-280

CHAPTER XV.

A LATE START AND THE RESULT—BEWILDERED—RETURN TO ABRICOLLA—CROSS COL D'HÉRENS TO ZERMATT—ASCEND THE THEODULHORN—NEW IDEAS REGARDING THE MATTERHORN—DECEPTIVENESS OF THE EAST FACE—STRATIFICATION—DIP OF THE BEDS—TRY ANOTHER ROUTE—"SAUVE QUI PEUT"—BEATEN AGAIN.

281-294

CHAPTER XVI.

THE BOUQUETIN—ON CRÉTINISM AND GOÎTRE—CAUSES OF THEIR ORIGIN—POSSIBILITY OF CHECKING PROGRESS OF CRÉTINISM—THE ANCIENT GLACIER OF AOSTA AND THE MORAINES OF IVREA—RAMSAY'S EROSION THEORY—TYNDALL's THEORY—CONTRADICTIONS—CRITICISM OF THE THEORIES—CONCLUSIONS—SUMMIT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES—WE START AN AVALANCHE

295-345

CHAPTER XVII.

CONFUSION OF IDEAS—A MIDNIGHT START—SUMMIT OF THE PASS—EXTRAORDINARY ICE-WALL—MANNER OF ITS DESCENT—ON ICE-AXES AND THEIR USE—ON ICE-SLOPES AND THEIR SAFETY—CRAMPONS—ARRIVAL AT CHAMOUNIX

346-352

CHAPTER XVIII.

CROZ LEAVES US—CHRISTIAN ALMER—SUNSET ON THE MER DE GLACE—STRUCTURE OF GLACIERS—THE "VEINED STRUCTURE"—ORIGIN OF VEINS IN GLACIERS—ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE—ADVICE TO MOUNTAIN WALKERS—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—STORMS COME ON—A WORTHY PORTER—THE NOBLE ATTITUDE OF CHAMOUNIX

353-365

CHAPTER XIX.

THE COL DU GÉANT—THE GLACIER DE TALÈFRE—EASY WAY FROM CHAMOUNIX TO CORMAYEUR—GLISSADING—PASSES OVER THE MAIN CHAIN OF MONT BLANC

366-369

CHAPTER XX.

FACILITY WITH WHICH THE RUINETTE CAN BE ASCENDED—NOBLE PANORAMA—ON CONCEALED CREVASSES—GUIDES' OBJECTION TO USE OF THE ROPEON THE USE AND ABUSE OF THE ROPEALMER DECLINES THE MATTERHORN—ENGAGE THE CARRELS—THEIR DEFECTIONTHE ITALIANS STEAL A MARCH—ARRIVAL OF LORD FRANCIS DOUGLAS—MEETING WITH CROZ AND HUDSON

370-383

CHAPTER XXI.

CHARLES HUDSON—CAMP ON THE EAST FACE—CROZ REPORTS FAVOURABLY—ASCENT OF THE EASTERN FACE—CROSS TO THE NORTHERN SIDE—ARRIVAL AT SUMMITDISCOMFITURE OF THE ITALIANS—ASTONISHMENT AT BREIL—MARVELLOUS PANORAMA

384-394

CHAPTER XXII.

ORDER OF THE DESCENT—A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE—HADOW SLIPS—DEATH OF CROZ, HADOW, HUDSON, AND LORD F. DOUGLAS—TERROR OF THE TAUGWALDERS—THE BROKEN ROPE—AN APPARITION—AN INFAMOUS PROPOSITION—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—SEARCH FOR AND RECOVERY OF THE BODIES—OFFICIAL EXAMINATION—THE END

395-408

APPENDIX.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Drawings were made on the Wood by

H. J. Boot, C. Johnson, J. Mahoney, J. W. North, P. Skelton, W. G. Smith, and C. J. Staniland;

and were Engraved by J. W. and Edward Whymper.

FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS

1. Frontispiece.
2. To face page 35
[1]3. " 52
4. " 83
5. " 84
5.

'The Chimney'

" 119

" In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and feli A Cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862) The Crags of the Matterhorn, during the Storm, Midnight, Aug. 10, 1863 Descending Western Arete of the Pointe des Ecrins " We saw a toe — it seemed to belong to Moore ; w saw Reynaud a flying body " The Summit of the Homing Pass in 1864 The Club-Room of Zermatt in 1864 The Bergschrund on the Dent Blanche in 1865 The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg . Sections of the Matterhorn .... The Gkandes Jorasses from the Val Ferret The Summit of the Col Dolent ....


119 120 127

217

259 262 276 285 288 344 347 Page:Whymper - Scrambles amongst the Alps.djvu/22 Page:Whymper - Scrambles amongst the Alps.djvu/23 Page:Whymper - Scrambles amongst the Alps.djvu/24

  1. From Photographs.

This work was published before January 1, 1923, and is in the public domain worldwide because the author died at least 100 years ago.