Sixteen years of an artist's life in Morocco, Spain and the Canary Islands/Chapter 2
CHAPTER II.
When I got up from the sand, on which I had been so unceremoniously plumped down, I found myself surrounded by a motley audience, a posse of lusty Riffians. Their looks were fierce, and their heads completely shaven, with the exception of the long plaited tail of hair which hung down over the shoulder, and which, as they devoutly believe, serves for the Good Angel to take them to heaven by. Their dark skins contrasted brilliantly with their white haikhs.
What appeared great balls of dirty clothes now came tumbling about me, and had it not been for the red slippers which terminated the mass, I should never have imagined the possibility of their being human creatures. The first idea suggested to my mind was that, on being disencumbered of the garments in which they were invested, the objects within must be disclosed in the form of porpoises, barrels of flesh, or any hideous thing, difficult to recognise as really women. Such, however, they were, for out of each bundle peered an eye upon me, twinkling with all the curiosity with which the sex in every land is charged. While gazing with wonder and humiliation at these monsters―at these women, if I must call them so―I suddenly felt something wet upon my face. I had undergone one of those acts of humiliation to which these people think it proper to subject those of the Christian faith. On looking up, I met the grin of a shiny, frizzly black slave, her mouth, which was on the full stretch, disclosing a matchless set of teeth. My appearance was too much for her. "A Nazarene woman, covered with little rags," she said. Nor was she altogether wrong in her description, for my gloves, collar, hat, shoes, stockings, ribbons, &c., were certainly all little rags compared with the one great garment that covers the Moorish women, or the scanty cloth that served in her almost nude state.
A very grand colossal figure now greeted me in a few words of English, which did not appear to have any particular bearing upon the surrounding circumstances. His fair face, freckled and sunburnt, and his soft blue eyes, might have been supposed to indicate an individual of European origin, were it not for the turban that he wore. His ponderous body was enveloped in a gorgeous, many-coloured dress of scarlet, green, and gold, showing beautifully through a cream-coloured semi-transparent haikh, which was carefully arranged so as to display, rather than conceal, the splendid dress beneath. This magnificently-dressed Moor was Hadj Mohammed Balga, and the office which he held was that of Captain of the Sultan's port of Tangier.
But the crowd now began to thicken, and I was completely hemmed in by turbaned Moors, bearded Jews, clamorous dogs, patient donkeys, and stately camels. I was perfectly at a loss as to the means by which I should succeed in escaping from the importunate curiosity of the motley crowd by which I was surrounded. Fortunately, at this juncture, I had the pleasure of meeting Her Britannic Majesty's diplomatic agent, who, having come to Tangier on visit to his family, had hastened down to escort me to his house. But I was not yet to be permitted to escape from the curious throng who pressed upon our steps. Their number rather increased than diminished as we proceeded on our way, and their wonder seemed rather to grow than to be satiated by the food with which they fed their eyes. It was consequently with considerable difficulty that we made our way through the narrow streets, or, as I imagined them at the time to be, back lanes, for being as yet a perfect stranger to the peculiar features of Moorish towns, I thought that Mr. D. H., in order to escape our persevering tormentors, was taking me by a short cut to his residence. I was not yet accustomed to the narrow lanes and monotonous white walls that intersect all Mohammedan towns; besides, I was bewildered by the novelty of the spectacle that met my eyes in whatever direction I turned them. With the eye of an artist, I singled out the beautiful little fountains sending forth their refreshing streams of sparkling water, and the elegant little alcoves which afforded so welcome a shelter from the oppressive heat of the noonday sun. I cannot say, however, that my ear was agreeably impressed with the sound of the language, its harsh and guttural pronunciation being anything but musical.
At this moment, my attention, ever on the alert, was attracted by a strange sound that came swelling on the air. As it seemed to proceed from above, the knowledge I had previously acquired by conversation and reading enabled me at once to apprehend what it was. Nor was I mistaken in my conjecture. It was the Mueddin, the well-known Mohammedan call to prayer. How solemnly it sounded from the minarets of the mosques all over the city, summoning the faithful to their devotions, and proclaiming in the ears of all men the unity of God, and that Mohammed is his prophet! In all Mohammedan countries, this sacred call, which no one can listen to without some degree of emotion, supersedes the use of the bells by which the Christian world is invited to the house of prayer, and which are an abomination to the true believer. The moment the Mueddin is heard, every Moor, far and near, wherever he may happen to be when the sound first strikes his ear, or however engaged at the time, throws himself prostrate on the ground, it may be in his chamber, in his shop, in the bazaar, in the street, or on the housetop; it may be when alone, or when engaged in conversation with his friends and family; it matters not how or where engaged, at the solemn summons every face is instantaneously turned to the east, the head is bowed to the dust, and the incense of prayer is offered to the one God.
At the corner of one of the mosques, was a poor half-naked maniac, or "Santo", shrieking most dolefully for his wife, who, I was informed, had died some years previously of cholera. On seeing us approach, the poor creature ran away and hid himself from our sight, again giving utterance to his hideous howl. Often has my rest been disturbed by his insane raving, and I have started up in the dead of night, awakened by his melancholy wailing cry, "Yanassee! ah, Yanassee!"
I had already become acquainted with much that was novel and peculiar in the customs of Mohammedan countries, and that even before I had reached the house beneath whose hospitable roof I was to find rest after the fatigues of my long voyage. So different, indeed, is everything that surrounds the stranger from all the modes of life to which he has previously been accustomed in England, or in any part of Europe, even in those regions which are nearest to the coast of Barbary, that it only requires one to open his eyes and to be ordinarily observant, to acquire much interesting knowledge, and much agreeable food for the future reflection. I was yet to learn more before I could be said to have fairly terminated my journey.
As we passed the mosque, I observed that the Jewish porters who were carrying my luggage put it all down in the road as soon as they came near its sacred precincts, and proceed to take off their slippers, this being one of the indignities to which they are subjected on every occasion when the path they are pursuing brings them near a Moorish temple. Although the door of the sacred edifice was open, my companion counselled me not to stop before it, or exhibit any outward signs of my very natural curiosity, as the Moors were more than usually jealous of any observation on the part of the Christians, and were unnecessarily prompt in taking offence if they thought their proceedings were too narrowly watched. Indeed, it appears that they are altogether more exclusive than their brethren in any part of the east, and under the influence of their narrow-minded bigotry will not suffer any Christian to enter their mosques, the slightest infraction of their will in this respect being punished with the severest penalties.
I obtained a glimpse, however, as I passed, of the large court, or body, of the building, and observed that it shone brilliantly with the manycoloured mosaics of the glazed and painted tiles with which it was paved. In the midst was a fountain at which some Moors were performing their ablutions, while others were squatted about, bowing their heads to the "Holy Caaba."
But in Morocco, if the sight is entranced with ever recurring novelties and with much that is dazzling and beautiful, the other senses are compelled, in obedience apparently to the law of compensation, to endure much that is offensive beyond all expression, for while the ear is frequently startled by the most hideous and appalling sounds, the sense of smell is overwhelmed by indescribably abominable odours, that certainly do not come from Araby the Blest. But use, we all know, is second nature, and the inhabitants have not only learnt to endure them with patience, but would probably lament their absence, if by any extraordinary interruption to the usual course of things their olfactory nerves were deprived of their usual stimulant at the seasonable time. Ever Europeans must learn to endure what cannot be cured, and if they can never become reconciled to these odours, nor, like the natives, associate them with their reminiscences of the past, they at least learn, in the language of the poet, to "suffer and be still."
But to return from this digression. When prayer is over, the Moor resumes his usual occupation; he unlocks his box in the wall―for such is his shop―and jumps in among his merchandize, sits cross-legged in the midst of the articles in which he deals, offers them for sale, and endeavours to attract customers. His stock cannot be described, in honest truth, as very tempting in its nature. It probably consists of heaps of musty raisins, coarse sugar plentifully mingled with flies, stale leathery figs, snuff, and several other odds and ends, mixed up together without any attempt at regularity or order. There are probably also several large jars of rancid butter, the presence of which is announced by the odour with which it greets the approaching passenger, even before he has come within sight of the shop. But the article is popular, notwithstanding, or perhaps because of, its staleness, and bears many visible signs of the estimation in which it is held, and the demand which it has excited, in the numerous mould-like marks of the merchant's fingers intersecting it in all directions, and duly increasing as his patrons become more numerous.
It is an old saying, that travellers see strange things, and those that only open their eyes may witness not only many novelties,but also the novel uses to which familiar things may be applied. A carroty cat, for example, sits at the merchant's side, and appears to be in the enjoyment of that state of perfectly satisfied repose which can neither be called sleeping nor waking, and which individuals of the feline tribe appear to appreciate so much. This cat answers the purpose of soap, water, and towel to the Moor, who carefully wipes his hands on her back between each dispensation of butter to his waiting customers. He is not quite so successful in a labour which he undertakes himself, that, namely, of endeavouring, with a wand which he waves about incessantly, to keep of the flies that are fascinated in countless numbers by the sweets of which he disposes. Some dead rats may also be lying about; and probably some other animals, in the last stage of existence, too weak even to make their way across the street, may be drawing their last breath in the establishment over which he presides.
But there are now fresh objects in the street, to which our observation must in due course be turned. A drove of camels, under the care of a half naked Arab driver, is approaching in one direction, sniffing the air, as they come on, with a solemn mixture of patient stupidity and apparent pride, and gracefully arching their long necks over you as they proceed on their way. Disentangling yourself with some difficulty from them, you find yourself in an instant in another predicament, for a sudden roaring noise assails your ears, warning you to move on, and before you can step aside, you are nearly run down by two turbaned porters carrying a crushing load which is supported between them on a long pole.
My attention was next attracted to a procession which happened, fortunately, while I had an opportunity of seeing it, to be coming along the narrow street; and I heard the shrill, tremulous yelling with which the Hebrew women conduct a bride to the house of her betrothed. The latter appeared to be as rigid as a corpse, as, amid the clashing of cymbals and the shouts of her friends, she was borne along to her destination. In conformity with the requirements of her religion, her eyes were closed, and her face was so highly painted with white and scarlet as entirely to outrage the modesty of nature. So utterly inanimate and motionless did she remain during her progress through the crowd that she might have been readily taken for one of the Spanish painted wooden figures of Montañes. Otherwise, she was one mass of expensive glitter and display. Her eyes, too, although shut, appeared unnaturally large and distended, from the custom of staining them copiously with al cohol. Her hair was hidden by a magnificent tiara of pearls and emeralds, and by a rich and many-coloured silk handkerchief. Large hoops of gold, adorned with precious stones, formed a very remarkable ornament for the ear, although they can scarcely be denominated ear-rings, for they are larger than bracelets, being about six inches in diameter, and as thick as the little finger. These, partially supported by fine gold chains attached to the head-dress, are passed through the fleshy part of the ear, leaving only a thin shred of flesh round the gold. A star of jewels, in front of each, is so disposed as to appear in all its lustre on the side next to the face. From her neck is suspended a profusion of antique chains and pendants of pearls and emeralds, of extraordinary size, but roughly cut and polished. The bodice she wears is composed of cloth of gold, gorgeous in appearance, and disposed about her person in what we should term a voluptuously loose manner, the skirt appended to it being of brilliant scarlet cloth, richly braided with gold. Her naked ankles were weighed down by ponderous and roughly chased anklets, and a clumsy pair of gold embroidered scarlet slippers, of Morocco leather, covered the fore part of her feet.
Such is a faithful picture of this automaton beauty, and of her rich, but not very graceful, toilet, as amid the lurid blaze of the torches, and the frantic yells and shouts of the rabble collected about her, she was conveyed to the habitation of her future husband. We followed her to the door; and having then taken a last look of this half-animated bride, we turned aside towards a neighbouring house, in which we expected to have the pleasure of seeing the pretty wife of the Hebrew interpreter to the British Mission.
The house was very unostentatious, even mean, in appearance, at least on the outside; and on his first entrance the visitor is met by a dead wall, so managed in all Moorish and Jewish houses as most effectually to prevent the passers by from gratifying their curiosity by gazing into the Patio, or central court, which is the usual rendezvous of the family circle. But in proportion to the plain and unattractive appearance of these houses on the exterior, are they rich and costly within. The Jew in Morocco may not choose to exhibit the full extent of his riches and possessions to the subjects of the Protector of the Faithful, for the consequence might be that, unless he enjoyed the protection of some very powerful patron, he would have to pay dear for his inconsiderate ostentation. The Patio of the house to which we were now introduced, was beautifully paved with glazed tiles, in a manner similar to that of which I had obtained a hasty glimpse in the Mosque. The patterns in which the tiles were disposed were beautiful, varied, and richly coloured, and their peculiar glaze gave an air of agreeable freshness and cleanliness to this central court. The stairs and walls were all of the same Mosaic; and any one who has once visited Pompeii would be struck with the similarity of the Moorish buildings to those of that ancient city. All round the Patio was a light and graceful colonnade, supported by slender pillars and exquisitely proportioned arches of a horse-shoe form. The whole had a very fairy-like appearance, and bore a most striking resemblance to some small and isolated portion of the Alhambra of the Caliphat in Granada.
Preparations were now in the course of being made for an entertainment in honour of the approaching marriage; and these appeared to be on a pretty extensive scale; for as the bride was a relation of the family, they were naturally anxious to celebrate the occasion in a becoming style. An ample feast, consisting of tea, sweetmeats, wine, Rosolio, chicken, fish, and porter, was accordingly laid out for the visitors, and, on their arrival at the proper time, had all due honours done to it. Some professional musicians had also been engaged for the amusement of the marriage guests. Their orchestra consisted of an abominable violin―on which one of them scratched away with commendable perseverance―a tambourine, which another enthusiastically thumped and rattled, and other rude instruments, which were distributed among the remainder of this band of musical artists. The concert was certainly as varied as the rivalry of many discordant sounds could make it; and as there was no cessation in the succession of these sweet sounds, some one striking in with a nasal song at every pause of the instrumentalists, the noise was incessant, and I could only conclude that they had entered into it for the night.
After the refreshments, there was also a display of the Terpsichorean art as practised in this clime, which, if not very pleasing to the beholder, was at least interesting to me in consequence of its novelty. The performer was a young Jewess, who was pushed into the middle of the room by her friends, to all appearance not without some reluctance, as it was only after a considerable amount of blushing, resistance, and struggling, that she could be induced to begin. And when at last she did throw off her bashfulness, whether real or assumed, of what an extraordinary spectacle was I compelled to be a spectator; such a one as certainly I had never before been favoured with an opportunity of witnessing. The successive movements in which the young lady made an exhibition of her skill could scarcely be described as dancing in the ordinary sense of the word. Never moving out of a space of not more that half a yard square, she kept up a wriggling motion of the hips, and with her eyes all the time directed to the ground, incessantly waved about a silk handkerchief, which she held fast in both her hands. Another circumstance that struck me as very peculiar was that the visitors and others who were thronging around, and who gazed with admirations on the dancer, in order to shew how much they appreciated what they probably regarded as the grace and elegance of her movements, continually advanced towards her and touched her forehead with small silver coins. Then, in order to stimulate and maintain the energy of the flagging musicians, they threw these coins down on the ground, and they were then considered the perquisites of those who contributed so materially to the pleasures of so joyful an occasion. It being clearly, therefore, of the greatest importance to the musicians that the energy of the dances should not be allowed to flag, they continued to scratch and rattle and thump away with increasing enthusiasm, creating a din such as no words of mine can adequately describe, but which, under the influence of the highly colouring power of imagination, they fondly flattered themselves was most exquisite music.