St. Nicholas/Volume 32/Number 5/Practical Boy
The Practical Boy
By Joseph H. Adams.
Fifth Paper.
Venetian and Florentine Metal-work
During the past few years American and English boys and girls have became so fascinated with Venetian and Florentine metal-work that to-day the materials may be purchased at hardware-stores in many of the large cities.
A few simple designs are shown on these pages, and the instructions given are for the amateurs who are supposed to have had no experience in this kind of work. The tools required will be a pair of flat-nosed and a pair of round-nosed pliers, a pair of heavy shears, and a pair of wire-cutters; a small bench-vise will also be useful.
The materials needed will be a few sheets of thin stovepipe iron of good quality that may be purchased from a tinsmith, several yards of fine, soft iron wire, and some heavy wire for framework.
From the sheets of iron narrow strips are to be cut with the shears, and for ordinary work they should be net more than three sixteenths of an inch in width, but for heavier work the width may be varied. 1f it is possible to obtain the strips at a hardware-store, it will be best to purchase them, as it is a tiresome task to cut many of the strips from sheet-iron; but if they cannot be bought ready-made, it would be best to let a tinsmith cut them with a large pair of shears or gage-cutters. Soft, thin iron that will bend easily is the only kind that is of use, as the hard or brittle iron breaks off, and it is-impossible to bend graceful scrolls of it.
When uniting or binding two strips of metal together, they may be fastened either with wire or bands, as you choose. If the latter mode is employed, short pieces of the metal strips are to be cut
Diagram showing the method of bending and fastening and partly bent in the form of a clamp, as shown in Fig. 5. Bring two sides together and bend one ear of the clamp over them (Fig. 6); and if the other ear is the proper length, bend that down in place, and squeeze all together with the flat-nosed pair of pincers so the perfect joint will appear as shown in Fig. 7.
In Figs. 2, 3, and 4 are shown the various stages in bending a piece of flat band to make the form shown in Fig. 1. This form, it will be noticed, appears in the circle of the lamp-screen in the next column. Fig. 8 is the pattern for a four-leaved bell-flower, and Fig. 9
Fig. 10. A chain link complete. shows the details of an ornamental chain link.
When using metal clamps, the ears should be of such a length that when pressed down over the united strips of metal the ends will just come together, and not so that one will lap over the other.
A Lamp-screen
A simple and attractive design for a lamp-screen is shown in Fig. 11, and when completed and backed with some pretty material it will be found a very useful little affair to hang against the shade of a lamp to shield one’s eyes from the direct rays of a bright light.
To begin with, form a square of 6 inches, and at the top, where the ends meet, make a lap-joint by allowing one end to lap over the other, and bind them together with some very fine wire, about the size that florists use; inside of this square make a circle 6 inches in diameter, and wire it fast to the square where the sides, bottom, and top touch it. Join by wrapping with soft wire the points where all scrolls, circles, and straight lines come in contact.
Having made the body part of the screen, make the scrolls that form the top, and bind them in place with wire or the little metal clamps. This top should measure about three inches high from the top of the screen.
For the sides and bottom make a frill of any form, somewhat after the pattern shown in the illustration.
When the metal-work is finished, coat it with a good black paint to improve its appearance and prevent its rusting. Small cans of such paint may be purchased at any paint or hardware store. If it should become too thick, it may be thinned by adding alcohol.
If the metal-work is exposed to the weather or dampness that would cause it to rust, a coat of red lead next the iron is necessary in all cases.
A backing of some pretty light-colored silk (plain, not figured) is required to complete the screen, using one, two, or three thicknesses, depending upon how opaque it is desired to be.
When constructing any piece of grill-work, it is always best to have a full-size drawing to work over. For instance, in building up this screen it is much better to have lines to follow than to trust to chance in fitting the various pieces together; so whenever making anything flat, always draw the pattern first. It is a very simple 
Fig. 11. A Lamp-screen. matter to lay out a plan in the following manner: pin to a lap-board a smooth piece of heavy brown paper, and with a soft pencil draw a 6-inch square; inside this draw with a compass a 6-inch circle; then draw in the four corner circles and divide the larger circle into quarters. In each of the quarters draw, in freehand, the
scroll like Fig. 1, and, in turn, the middle hoop.
A Fairy-lantern
For a candle fairy-lantern and bracket, Fig. 12 suggests a beautiful design that is made in six sections and wired together.
The back stick, A, is to be made of wood ¼ inch square and 16 inches long, and the metal strips of which the scrolls are formed should be ¼ inch wide. The bracket may extend out 9 inches from the wall.
The lantern body measures 11 inches high, not including the rings at the top nor the bell-flowers at the bottom. Each side is 7 inches high, 3 inches wide at the top, and 4¼ inches at the bottom. It will be best to make each of the six sides separately of strips one eighth of an inch in width,
Fig. 12. A Fairy-lanturn. and construct the frames of thick brass wire, and solder the unions to make them strong. After the sides are made and put together, forming a hexagon, the top or crown and the bottom may be constructed. Fig, 12 shows plainly how each of the top and bottom sections is formed; and after they are fastened to the sides, one of the six large side-panels is to be detached and swung as a door.
To hold a large taper or a candle it will be necessary to make a sconce or candle-socket and attach it to the bottom of the lantern inside.
At the top several rings may be arranged from which to swing the lantern to the hook on the bracket, and at the bottom some bell-flowers of sheet-metal may be suspended as described for one of the hanging candle-holders on page 446. A few coats of black paint will give this artistic bit of furnishing a good appearance, and when completed it may be attached to a door or window casing or hung in a corner against the wall.
A Candlestick.
To begin with, secure an old tin or brass candlestick and rip the bottom off, leaving only
Fig. 13. Detail of Candlestick
Fig. 14. A Candlestick. the sheath and the collar at the top. Have a tinsmith cut the lower end away, leaving about 2 inches of the top,and solder a bottom in it.
Cut a pine stick about 4 inches long and notmore than three sixteenths of an inch square, or the same thickness as the width of the metal strips from which the scrolls will be formed. Punch a small hole in the bottom of the socket and drive a slim steel-wire nail down through it and into the middle of one end of the stick, so that the attached pieces will appear as shown in Fig. 13. The socket will hold a candle, and the stick will act as a center-staff against which the four scroll sides are to be fastened. The scrolls may measure 4½ inches full width and 5 or 6 inches high. To the upper part of one side-scroll a handle can be shaped and fastened as shown in Fig. 14.
A Sign-board.
For a sign-hoard an idea is suggested in the design at the head of this article. For a place of business, in front of a cottage or a physician’s office, it may be displayed to good advantage.
It is merely a board on which sheet-iron or lead letters may be fastened and the edges bound with metal and large-headed nails. A rod, set at right angles to a post or on the side of a building, is to be made stout enough to support the board, and to ornament it some scroll-work is attached at the top. Scroll ornaments decorate the sides and bottom of the board, also, and add greatly to its appearance. These are fastened on with steel-wire nails driven through holes made in the metal and into the edges of the board. Sign-boards vary in length, width, and thickness, and the number of letters to be placed on them will govern this.
The ornamental scroll-work should be made of somewhat thicker and wider iron strips than the more delicate articles for door use. If the sign is to be used outdoors, the iron should be given a coat of red lead and then one or two coats of black paint.
A Five-light Candlestick.
The design for a four-armed candelabrum, to hold five candles, is shown in Fig. 16.
Cut two sticks ¼ inch square and 10 inches long, and one 13 inches long; also a short piece 2 inches long.
At the middle of the 10-inch lengths cut laps as shown at A in Fig. 15, and bore a hole through the center and into an end of the long stick. Drive a slim nail down into the hole at the end of the stick, as shown at B, and over it place the cross-arms as shown at C. In one
Fig. 15. Details of the Five-light Candlestick
Fig. 14. A Candlestick. end of the short stick bore a hole and fit it over the top of the nail and drive it down so that it will fit securely on top of the cross-sticks, and the completed union will have the appearance of D. To this wood frame the scroll and ornamental work are to be attached.
Lay out the plan of one side of the grill-work on paper, making the distance from the stick to the outer edge of the foot about 4½ inches,
Fig. 16. A Five-light Candlestick. and the narrowest place (where the side curves in near the top) 1¾ inches in width. The scrolls should be securely bound to the wood frame with wire; and for candle-sockets five stars should be cut from the pattern given in Fig. 8, except that they had better be of six or
eight ears. They should be 2½ inches in diameter and bent to receive a standard-size candle.
A small screw passed through a hole in the center will fasten them to the wood arms; and when placing them the wood should pass entirely under each socket, as may be seen in the illustration. Canopy shades and holders should be made or purchased.
Fig. 16 shows two legs of the stand, the leg projecting toward the observer showing merely its edge, as the illustration does not show the candlestick in perspective. Of course there are two more candles than the cut shows, but to simplify the sketch they are omitted. Each of the four cross-arms has a candle.
A Moorish Lantern.
This may be undertaken by boys who have gained some experience in making the simpler things already described in this article.
In size this lantern is not limited, and it may be made from 12 to 36 inches high, not including the suspension chain and rings and the drop of flower pendants at the bottom.
Fig. 17. A Moorish Lantern
For a lamp 20 inches high, having six sides, each panel can be made on a wire frame. The middle panels will measure 6 inches high, 4 inches wide at the top, and 3 inches at the bottom. The top panels will be 5 inches across at the widest place, and the lower ones. 4½ inches. One of the middle panels can be arranged to swing on hinges in order to place a lamp within the lantern, and to make it possible to line the inside of the middle part with some plain silk or other material. At the top and bottom, the ends of the heavy wires forming the skeleton frame should be curled. At the six corners, brackets may extend out for a distance of 5 inches, where, at the ends, sconces for tapers or small candles may be hung from wires as shown, or these may be omitted entirely. Each little sconce is 2 to 3 inches deep and 2½ to 3 inches in diameter, and in them candle-holders may be placed, over which colored-glass globes will appear to good advantage.
From the top of the lower lobe six arms may support flower-drops 4 or 5 inches long; and from the extreme bottom a pendant of flowers will make a good finish. Fig. 17 shows the lantern in perspective, but of course it must be borne in mind that it has six sides, and the patterns of the six sides, of the top, middle section, and bottom are all like those in one complete section that faces the reader as he looks at the illustration. No matter what size this lantern is made, the proportions here given should be carried out, as otherwise the graceful shape may be lost. A long chain made up of links and rings may be used to suspend the lantern.
The interior may be arranged for an oil-lamp, or electric light, or a cluster of candles, and, if preferred, the middle panels may be lined with silk. The lining should be plain, not figured, and of a thickness depending upon the light desired. For variety the string of flowers at the bottom of the lamp may be made with six points instead of four,
Metal-bound Articles.
Thin sheets of metal of different kinds can be used to great advantage in decoration; and it would seem hardly possible that strips of stovepipe iron, sheet-lead, brass, copper, and zinc could be employed to form such artistic edgings to wood boxes and bits of furniture as may be seen in the following illustrations.
It is so simple and easy to bind with metals that any boy can do it if the suggestions here given are followed and a little care and perseverance are exercised in the work.
A Plant-box.
For large growing plants, palms, and miniature trees, an attractive plant-box is shown in Fig. 18. It can be made almost any size, but for general use a good size is 12 inches square at the bottom, 18 at the top, and from 12 to 14 inches high. On two sides of the box ring-handles are to be fastened. These can be made by a blacksmith, at a small cost, and should be from 2½ to 4 inches in diameter, according to the size of the box. On the other sides metal strips of ornamental design may be tacked on.
This box should be treated to several good coats of paint inside, and finished as desired on the outside. A zinc lining should be made to fit the box, with a vent-hole at the bottom to 
Fig. 16. A Plant-box. drain off surplus moisture. A tinsmith will make the lining, which may be tacked around the top to the inside edge of the box.
A Metal-bound Box.
This (Fig. 19) is a useful receptacle for photographs, picture-cards, or other small things that accumulate in a library or a living-room.
To make a box 18 inches long, 10 inches
wide, and 8 inches deep, including top, bottom, and sides, obtain some smooth pieces of wood not more than three eighths or half an inch thick. The pieces arc glued and nailed all together, forming an inclosed box. Use a good liquid glue and slim steel-wire nails to make the joints, and when the glue is dry make a light pencil-mark all around the four sides of the box, one and a half inches down from the top; on this line carefully saw off the tap from the box.
Fig. 19. A Metal-bound Box.
Cut some strips of stovepipe iron or sheet-lead about an inch and a quarter wide. These are for binding the edges of the box. A strip is bent and lapped on both sides of a corner, so that a band five eighths of an inch
Fig. 20. Showing method of making center. wide will show on each side, The metal is to be fastened on with brass, oval-headed upholsterers’ tacks, and the heads
may be from a quarter to half an inch in diameter, Before tacking, lightly punch a hole in the strip with a pointed awl.
At the point on the strip where the corner is to be cut out a V is shown in the upper part of Fig. 20. The metal, when fastened to one edge, will appear as shown in the lower part of Fig. 20.
When the nails have been securely fastened in, bend down the standing edge of metal so that it will lie flat on the other side of the corner. This may be done by beating it down with a light wooden mallet.
From sheet-iron or lead next cut a few irregular strips of suitable length, and fasten them to the box to represent the straps to the hinges or binding straps to the box, The hasp and eye-plate can be made in the same manner.
The box may be lined with Canton flannel, velours, leather, or almost any good ling material, and a band of webbing or a chain arranged to the inside will prevent the cover from falling back too far, By using thicker wood a much larger box may be made from this pattern if desired.
A Hanging-plant Box.
For vines, low plants, or pretty blade grasses, the design for a hanging-plant box is shown in the illustration.
This is not a very large affair, and is to be
Fig. 21. A Hanging-plant Box. made of thin wood not more than three eighths or half an inch in thickness. The box part may measure 8 inches square at the top, 6 at the bottom, and 10 inches high. The inside of the box is to be treated to several coats of paint or asphaltum varnish to protect the wood, and the outside may be given a few coats of paint of any desired shade. The corners may then be bound with iron strips, and the design on each of the four sides worked out with tack-heads painted black, Any suitable design may be used, and by pricking through the lines of the original drawing the design may
readily be repeated on each side. The tacks are driven on the lines thus transferred; or, tissue-paper tracings may be made and the tacks driven over the lines. When all the tacks have been started, the paper can be torn away from them and they may then be driven in tight. A very pretty effect is made by using copper tacks.
At the top of the box, in the four corners, screw-eyes are to be made fast, into which the ends of the suspending chains will be caught
Four chains are to be made from thin strips of metal and small harness-rings and fastened in place, as shown in Fig. 21.
In putting the links together, care should be taken to fasten them well, so they will not come apart.
A Coal-box.
This coal-box is a very simple 
Fig. 22. affair, as it can be made from an ordinary box cut at one end so as to form a projection or nose.
The shape of the box is clearly shown in
Fig. 23. A Coal-box. Fig. 22, and in size it can be made to meet any requirement. For ordinary use, however, it will be 15 inches wide, 20 inches long from back to end of nose, and about 12 inches high, not counting the ball feet, which will raise it up two inches more. The box should be securely screwed together at the joints, and the
lid or cover fastened on with sheet-brass hinges. Paint or varnish will give the woodwork a good finish, and the lining should be made with several successive coats of asphaltum varnish or paint of a dark color.
Brass, lead, or black iron binding will look well on this box, and with large-headed nails the effect will be bold and pleasing. Four brass balls, from 1½ to 2 inches in diameter, with screws attached, are screwed fast under the corners to act as feet. These ball feet may be purchased at a good hardware-store.