Supplement to the Fourth, Fifth, and Sixth Editions of the Encyclopædia Britannica/Aberdeenshire

by James Cleghorn

ABERDEENSHIRE. Situation.The account given of this shire in the body of the work, is, in some particulars, incorrect, and in others, inadequate to its present state and circumstances. It is situate in the north-east of Scotland, between 56° 52′ and 57° 42′ of north latitude, and between 1° 49′, and 3° 48′ of longitude west from Greenwich. It is bounded by the German Ocean on the north and east; by the counties of Kincardine, Forfar, and Perth, on the south; and by those of Inverness, Moray, and Banff, on the west. Extent.Its greatest length is 85, its greatest breadth 40 miles; and its bounding line about 280 miles, of which 60 are on the sea-coast. By a careful measurement of Arrowsmith’s map, it is found to contain 1960 square miles, an area equal to 1,254,400 English, or 994,520 Scotch acres; of which somewhat more than one-third is under cultivation. Divisions.It is usually described under five divisions. First Marr, which is a mountainous district, particularly Braemar, the Highland subdivision; few of its bounding mountains being less than 3000 feet, and several of them more than 4000 feet above the level of the sea. Red-deer are here found in great numbers, sometimes 300 in a flock; and moor game abounds in this as in all the more elevated parts of the county. Second, Formartin, of which the land on the sea coast is low and fertile; but hills and mosses are spread over the interior. Third, Buchan, the most extensive division next to Marr, which has been greatly improved of late by the cultivation of turnips and clover. Fourth, Garioch, a large and beautiful valley, naturally very fertile. Before the introduction of the modern husbandry, it was termed the granary of Aberdeen. And, fifth, Strathbogie, the greater part of which consists of hills, mosses, and moors. On a comprehensive review, it may be said, that, with the exception of the sea-coast of Buchan, which is flat, and of the south-west division, which is mountainous, Aberdeenshire is in general a hilly country; though it contains many large and fertile tracts, in a high state of cultivation. In extent, it is very nearly one-sixteenth part of Scotland.

Minerals.Aberdeenshire is not rich in mineral productions. No coal has been found in it, and limestone is by no means abundant. Slate quarries are wrought to a small extent on the hill of Foudland, in the Garioch division; manganese is found near Aberdeen; and black lead has been discovered in the neighbourhood of Huntly. The mountains of Braemar contain these precious stones called Cairngorums by the country people, who go thither in whole families to search for them during the summer season; and they are sold sometimes at high prices, chiefly to the London jewellers. But granite is the most abundant mineral, and has brought considerable sums into the county, besides supplying the inhabitants with excellent stones, for building and other purposes. As many stones are sometimes raised from an acre of land under preparation for tillage, as bring from L. 30 to L. 50, for paving the streets of London. ‘The exportation of granite to the capital employs about 70 vessels of 7000 tons, and 400 men; and the value of all the stones exported yearly is stated at L. 40,000.

Waters.The principal rivers are the Dee and the Don. The gross annual produce of the salmon-fisheries on these two rivers is estimated at nearly L. 35,000. The Ythan and Ugie within the county, and the Deveron and Bogie on its boundaries, are also considerable streams. Muscles are plentiful near the mouth of the Ythan; and pearl muscles have been sometimes discovered at its lower extremity. One of the jewels of the ancient crown of Scotland, a valuable pearl, is said to have been found here. There are also several lakes throughout the county well stored with pike, trout, eels, and other kinds of fish. The county is noted for its chalybeate springs at Peterhead and Frasersburgh.

Woods and Plantations.The district of Marr, containing almost half the county, abounds in natural woods and plantations, which are a source of wealth to their proprietors, and of profitable employment to the inhabitants. This country is so well adapted to the growth of trees, that it is only necessary to shut out the cattle by enclosures, and the birds and winds supply it with seeds that soon rise into vigorous plants. These woods consist chiefly of Scotch fir; and the timber, especially what grows in the forests of Braemar, has been found superior to any that Scotland has imported from the north of Europe. About a tenth part of the whole surface of the county is under wood; and the trees found in the peat mosses indicate the existence of still more extensive forests in former ages.

Ruins.Ruins of ancient edifices are seen in different parts of the county. In the Garioch district, the vitrified fort Dun-o-Deer, built on the summit of a beautiful conical hill, which springs about 300 feet from its base, is supposed to be 1000 years old; and is said to have been the residence of King Gregory the Great (as he is called by the old Scotish historians) who died in 892. The ruins of two buildings, supposed to have belonged to Malcolm Kenmore, who died in 1004, are still pointed out. One of them, situate at Castletown of Braemar, was his hunting-seat; the other stands in a small island in Loch Kanders, and must have been inaccessible, except when the lake was frozen. A wooden bridge, which connected tt with the land, has been found in the lake. The castle of Kildrummy, which, in 1150, was the property of David, Earl of Huntingdon, must have been a princely edifice, covering nearly an acre of ground; and its venerable remains still shew the power and grandeur of the chieftains by whom it was inhabited. In the same district are some ancient subterraneous retreats, supposed to have been used by the Picts as places of refuge from an invading enemy.

Agriculture.The agriculture of Aberdeenshire has been considerably improved of late years; and wheat, as well as other grain, with potatoes, turnips, and clover, are now cultivated according to the best courses of modern husbandry. Farms, however, are still generally of a small size, compared with these of the south-eastern counties; and the buildings, though gradually improving, are for the most part much less convenient and comfortable. Here, as in every other part of Scotland, a lease for nineteen years is the most common bond of connection between the landholder and farmer; but it would appear that the covenants of leases are still in a considerable degree dictated by feudal ideas.

Cattle. In most parts of Aberdeenshire, cattle are a more important object to the tenantry than corn; the number is stated at 110,000; and the sales, to England and to the south of Scotland, amounting to about 12,000, are estimated to bring L. 150,000 annually. About two-thirds of the population depend entirely on agriculture; and oatmeal, prepared in different ways, is the principal food of the labouring classes.

Fisheries. Besides the salmon-fisheries already noticed, the sea-fishing employs a number of hands. The Greenland whale-fishery has been carried on with great success, by ships fitted out from Aberdeen and Peterhead. The whole fisheries connected with the county yield from L. 80,000 to L. 100,000 annually.

Manufactures. The staple manufacture, the knitting of stockings, has declined considerably for several years; and that of linen and thread has been deeply injured by the high price of flax during the late war. But these manufactures, together with those of woollen and cotton, are by no means inconsiderable. There are also establishments for making sail-cloth, inkle, paper, &c.; and, from the characteristic ingenuity and enterprize of the people, there is reason to expect that a few years of peace will greatly extend all these branches of industry.

Commerce. This county has always possessed a share of our foreign trade, chiefly of that with the north of Europe; and the recent improvements on the harbour of Aberdeen must contribute essentially to the extension of its commerce. There were, in 1910, belonging to Aberdeen, Peterhead, and Newburgh, 207 vessels, carrying 23,390 tons, and employing 1473 men. In 1807 a canal was opened from the harbour of Aberdeen to the town of Inverury, a distance of 18¼ miles, the expence of which was about L. 44,000. The facilities which this canal affords for the conveyance of coal and lime have already proved highly beneficial to the agriculture of the county.

Rent. The valued rent of the county is L. 235,665, 8s. 11d. Scots; and, according to the assessment to the property-tax for the year ending 5th April 1811, the real rent, which has been doubled within these 30 years, amounts, for the lands to L. 233,826, 19s. 10d. and for the houses to L. 65,557, 9s. 9d. Sterling.

Population. The population of this county, as ascertained under the act of the 41st of the King, in 1800, was 123,082. The town and parish of Aberdeen at this time contained 17,597 inhabitants. By the returns made under the population act of 1811, the numbers were increased to 135,075 for the county, and 21,639 for the town and parish. In the returns made under these acts, the county was divided into eight districts, viz. Aberdeen, Alford, Deer or Buchan, Ellon, Garioch, Kincardine O’Neil, Strathbogie, and Turreff. The following tables will shew the results of the returns applicable to these districts at the two periods above mentioned. In this, as in the other maritime counties of the north, there is a considerable disproportion between the numbers of the sexes.

1800.

DISTRICTS.	HOUSES.			OCCUPATIONS.			PERSONS.
	Inhabited.	By how many families occupied.	Uninhabited.	Persons chiefly employed in Agriculture.	Persons chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or Handicraft.	All other persons not comprised in the two preceding Classes.	Males.	Females.	Total of Persons.
Aberdeen,	4,978	10,422	146	4,434	14,577	16,401	14,990	20,451	35,423
Alford,	1,939	1,942	49	5,460	847	2,141	3,993	4,455	8,448
Deer,	5,846	6,487	87	7,643	4,991	12,844	11,552	13,966	25,518
Ellon,	2,609	2,624	50	6,418	1,805	2,846	5,169	5,900	11,069
Garioch,	2,837	2,882	38	7,729	1,214	3,047	5,680	6,310	11,990
Kincardine O’Neil,	3,218	3,224	157	4,870	1,794	6,677	6,214	7,127	13,341
Strathbogie,	1,780	1,975	12	3,428	1,135	3,687	3,851	4,399	8,250
Turreff,	2,042	2,145	34	3,062	1,336	4,645	4,176	4,867	9,043
	25,249	31,701	573	43,044	27,699	52,288	55,625	67,457	123,082

1811.

DISTRICTS.	HOUSES.			OCCUPATIONS.			PERSONS.
	Inhabited.	By how many families occupied.	Uninhabited.	Families chiefly employed in Agriculture.	Families chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft.	All other families not comprised in the two preceding classes.	Males.	Females.	Total of Persons.
Aberdeen,	5,610	12,196	249	1,890	7,382	2,924	18,641	25,570	44,211
Alford,	2,012	2,019	19	1,220	392	407	4,251	4,800	9,051
Deer,	5,646	6,473	122	2,868	2,713	892	11,360	14,615	25,975
Ellon,	2,650	2,662	54	1,765	605	292	5,325	6,112	11,437
Garioch,	2,872	2,924	83	1,830	787	307	5,939	6,527	12,466
Kincardine O’Neil,	3,058	3,079	138	1,868	679	532	6,231	7,113	13,344
Strathbogie,	1,975	2,089	36	978	880	231	4,007	4,821	8,828
Turreff,	2,177	2,276	44	1,218	848	210	4,405	5,358	9,763
	26,000	33,718	746	13,637	14,286	5,795	60,159	74,916	135,075

(A.)