The English Housekeeper/Chapter 6
CHAPTER VI.
JOINTING, TRUSSING, AND CARVING.
Below will be found the figures of the five larger animals, followed by a reference to each, by which the reader, who is not already experienced, may observe the names of all the principal joints, as well as the part of the animal from which the joint is cut. No book that I am acquainted with, except that of Mrs. Rundell, has taken any notice of this subject, though it is a matter of considerable importance, and one as to which many a young housekeeper often wishes for information.
Venison.
| 1. Shoulder. 2. Neck. 3. Haunch. |
4. Breast. 5. Scrag. |
Beef.
| 1. Sirloin. 2. Rump. 3. Edge Bone. 4. Buttock. 5. Mouse Buttock. 6. Leg. 7. Thick Flank. 8. Veiny Piece. 9. Thin Flank. |
10. Fore Rib: 7 Ribs. 11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribs. 12. Chuck Rib: 2 Ribs. 13. Brisket. 14. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. 15. Clod. 16. Neck, or Sticking Piece. 17. Shin. 18. Cheek. |
Mutton.
| 1. Leg. 2. Shoulder. 3. Loin, Best End. 4. Loin, Chump End. |
5. Neck, Best End. 6. Breast. 7. Neck, Scrag End. Note. A Chine is two Loins; and a Saddle is two Loins, and two Necks of the Best End. |
Veal.
| 1. Loin, Best End. 2. Fillet. 3. Loin, Chump End. 4. Hind Knuckle. 5. Neck, Best End. |
6. Breast, Best End. 7. Blade Bone, or Oyster-part. 8. Fore Knuckle. 9. Breast, Brisket End. 10. Neck, Scrag End. |
Pork.
| 1. Leg. 2. Hind Loin. 3. Fore Loin. |
4. Spare Rib. 5. Hand. 6. Belly or Spring. |
Cod's Head.—Fig. 1.
Cod's Head (Fig. 1) is a dish in carving which you have nothing to study beyond that preference for particular parts of the fish which some persons entertain. The solid parts are helped by cutting through with the fish trowel from a to b and from c to d, and so on, from the jaw-bone to the further end of the shoulder. The sound lies on the inside, and to obtain this, you must raise up the thin part of the fish, near the letter e.—This dish never looks so well as when served dry, and the fish on a napkin neatly folded, and garnished with sprigs of parsley.
Haunch of Venison.—Fig. 2.
Haunch of Venison is cut (as in Fig. 2.) first in the line a to b. This first cut is the means of getting much of the gravy of the joint. Then turning the dish longwise towards him, the carver should put the knife in at c, and cut, as deep as the bone will allow, to d, and take out slices on either side of the line in this direction. The fat of venison becomes cold so very rapidly, that it is advisable, when convenient, to have some means of giving it renewed warmth after the joint comes to table. For this purpose, some use water plates, which have the effect of rendering the meat infinitely nicer than it would be in a half chilled state.
Haunch of Mutton is carved in the same way as Venison.
Saddle of Mutton.—Fig. 3.
Saddle of Mutton. This is prepared for roasting as in Fig. 3, the tail being split in two, each half twisted back, and skewered, with one of the kidneys enclosed. You carve this by cutting, in straight lines, on each side of the backbone, as from a to b, from c to d. If the saddle be a fine one, there will be fat on every part of it; but there is always more on the sides (ee) than in the centre.
Edge Bone of Beef.—Fig. 4.
Edge Bone of Beef, like the Round of Beef, is easily carved. But care should be taken, with both of these, to carve neatly; for if the meat be cut in thick slices or in pieces of awkward shape, the effect will be both to cause waste and to render the dish, while it lasts, uninviting. Cut slices, as thin as you please, from a to b (Fig. 4). The best part of the fat will be found on one side of the meat, from about c to d. The most delicate is at c.
Fore Quarter of Lamb.—Fig. 5.
Fore Quarter of Lamb is first to be cut so as to divide the shoulder from the rest of the quarter, which is called the target. For this purpose, put the fork firmly into the shoulder joint, and then cut underneath the blade-bone beginning at a (Fig. 5), and continue all round in the direction of a circular line, and pretty close to the under part of the blade-bone. Some people like to cut the shoulder large, while others take off no more meat with it than is barely necessary to remove the blade-bone. It is most convenient to place the shoulder on a separate dish. This is carved in the same way as the shoulder of mutton. (See Fig. 7.) When the shoulder is removed, a lemon may be squeezed over that part of the remainder of the joint where the knife had passed: this gives a flavour to the meat which is generally approved.—Then, proceed to cut completely through from b to c, following the line across the bones as cracked by the butcher; and this will divide the ribs (d) from the brisket (e). Tastes vary in giving preference to the ribs or to the brisket.
Leg of Mutton.—Fig. 6.
Leg of Mutton, either boiled or roasted, is carved as in Fig. 6. You begin, by taking slices from the most meaty part, which is done by making cuts straight across the joint, and quite down to the bone (a, b), and thus continuing on towards the thick end, till you come to c, the cramp-bone (or, as some call it, the edge-bone). Some mutton is superfluously fat on every part of the leg. The most delicate fat, however, is always that which is attached to the outside, about the thick end. After cutting as above directed, turn the joint over, and cut longwise the leg, as with a haunch of venison (see Fig. 1). Some people like the knuckle, that part which lies to the right of b, though this is always the driest and the leanest. A few nice slices may be taken at d, by cutting across that end: these are not juicy, but the grain of the meat is fine; and here there is also some nice fat.
Shoulder of Mutton.—Fig. 7.
Shoulder of Mutton.—Cut first from a to b (Fig. 7) as deep as the bone will permit, and take out slices on each side of this line. Then cut in a line with and on both sides of the ridges of the blade-bone, which will be found running in the direction c to d. The meat of this part is some of the most delicate, but there is not much of it. You may get some nice slices between e and f, though these will sometimes be very fat. Turn the joint over, and take slices from the flat surface of the under part: these are the coarsest, yet some think the best.—In small families it is sometimes the practice to cut the under side while hot; this leaves the joint better looking for the next day.
Ham.—Fig. 8.
Ham is generally cut by making a deep incision across the top of it, as from a to b, and down to the bone. Those who like the knuckle end, which is the most lean and dry, may cut towards c; but the prime part of the ham is that between a and the thick end. Some prefer carving hams with a more slanting cut, beginning in a direction as from a to c, and so continuing throughout to the thick end. The slanting mode is, however, apt to be very wasteful, unless the carver be careful not to take away too much fat in proportion to the lean.
Sucking Pig should always be cut up by the cook; at least, the principal parts should be divided before the dish is served. First, take off the head immediately behind the ears: then cut the body in two, by carrying the knife quite through from the neck to the tail. The legs and the shoulders must next be removed from the sides, and each of them cut in two at their respective joints. The sides may either be sent to table whole, or cut up: if the latter, separate the whole length of each side into three or four pieces. The head should be split in two, and the lower jaws divided from the upper part of it; let the ears be cut off. In serving, a neat cook will take care to arrange the different parts thus separated so that they may appear, upon the dish, as little uneven and confused as possible. The sides, whether whole or in several pieces, should be laid parallel with each other; the legs and shoulders on the outer side of these, and opposite to the parts to which they have respectively belonged; and the portions of the head, and the ears, may be placed, some at one end, and some at the other end, or, as taste may suggest, at the sides of the dish.
Hare, or Rabbit, for Roasting.—Fig. 9.
Hare, or Rabbit, for Roasting, is prepared for the spit as in Fig. 9.—To carve: begin by cutting through near to the back-bone, from a to b; then make a corresponding cut on the other side of the back-bone; leaving the back and the head in one distinct piece. Cut off the legs at the hip joint (e), and take off the wing nearly as you would the wing of a bird, carrying the knife round the circular line (c). The ribs are of little importance, as they are bare of meat. Divide the back into three or four portions, as pointed out by the letters f g h. The head is then to be cut off, and the lower jaws divided from the upper. By splitting the upper part of the head in the middle you have the brains, which are prized by epicures. The comparative goodness of different parts of a hare, will depend much on the age, and also upon the cooking. The back and the legs are always the best. The wing of a young hare is nice; but this is not so good in an old one, and particularly if it be not thoroughly well done. The carving of a rabbit is pretty much the same as that of a hare: there is much less difficulty, however, with the former; and it would always save a good deal of trouble, as well as delay, if hares which are not quite young were sent to table already cut up.
Rabbit, for Boiling.—Fig. 10.
Rabbit, for Boiling, should be trussed, according to the newest fashion, as in Fig. 10. Cut off the ears close to the head, and cut off the feet at the foot-joint. Cut off the tail. Then make an incision on each side of the backbone, at the rump-end, about an inch and a half long. This will enable you to stretch the legs further towards the head. Bring the wings as close to the body as you can, and bring the legs close to the outside of the wings. The head should be bent round to one side, in order that, by running one skewer through the legs, wings and mouth, you may thus secure all and have the rabbit completely and compactly trussed.
Turkey, for Roasting.—Fig. 11.
Turkey for Roasting, is sometimes trussed with the feet on; and it is sometimes brought to table with the head as well as the feet. But such trussing is exceedingly ugly, and altogether unworthy of a good cook. The manner here described (see Fig. 11) is the most approved. If the breast-bone be sharp, it should be beaten down, to make the bird appear as plump as possible.—See Carving, in observations on Fig. 15.
Goose.—Fig. 12.
Goose.—For Carving, see observations on Fig. 15.
Fowls, for Roasting.
Fig. 13. |
Fig. 14. |
Fowls, for Roasting.—The most modern way of trussing these is as in Figs. 13 and 14. If it be but a chicken, or a small fowl, a single skewer through the wings, and the legs simply tied, as in Fig. 14, will be sufficient. But a large fowl is best kept in shape by the other method (Fig. 13).—See Carving, in observations on Fig. 15.
Turkey or Fowl for Boiling.—Fig. 15.
Turkey or Fowl, for Boiling.—For boiling, turkeys and fowls should, according to the newest fashion, both be trussed in the same way. There is nothing peculiar in this way, excepting as to the legs, which are to be trussed within the apron. To do this, the cook must first cut off the feet, and then, putting her fingers into the inside of the fowl, separate the skin of the leg from the flesh, all the way to the extreme joint. The leg, being drawn back, will thus remain, as it were, in a bag, within the apron; and, if this be properly done, there need be no other break in the skin than what has been occasioned at the joint by cutting the feet. If it be a turkey, or a large fowl, the form may be better preserved, by putting a skewer through the legs as well as through the wings (see Fig. 15). But with small fowls there needs no skewer for the legs. All skewers used in trussing should be taken out before the dish comes to table. To carve fowls, turkeys, &c., see Fig. 15. Begin by taking off the wings, cutting from a to b, c to d. Next the legs, putting your knife in at f f. Then, if it be a large bird, you will help slices from the breast (e e). But with the smaller birds, as chickens, partridges, &c., a considerable portion of the breast should come off with the wing, and then there is not enough left to spare any thing more from the breast-bone. The merry-thought, situated at the point of the breast-bone, is taken off by cutting straight across at h h. In helping, recollect that the liver-wing is commonly thought more of than the other. The breast-bone is divided from the back by simply cutting through the ribs on each side of the fowl. The neck-bones are at g g; but for these see Fig. 16, and the directions for carving the back.
Back of a Fowl.—Fig. 16.
Rest your knife firmly on the centre of the back, at the same time turning either end up with your fork, and this part will easily break in two at a b. The side-bones are at c d; and to remove these, some people put the point of the knife in at midway the line, just opposite to c d; others at the rump end of the bones e f. The neck-bones (at g h) are the most difficult part of the task. These must be taken off before the breast is divided from the back; they adhere very closely, and require the knife to be held firmly on the body of the fowl, while the fork is employed to twist them off.
Duck.—Fig. 17.
Breast. |
Back. |
Duck.—This should be trussed as in Fig. 17. The leg is twisted at the joint, and the feet (with the claws only cut off) are turned over, and so brought to lie flat on the rump.—For Carving, see observations on Fig. 15.
Pheasant.—Fig. 18.
Partridge.—Fig. 19.
Pheasant and Partridge.—These two are trussed nearly in one way, as in Figs. 18 and 19, excepting, that the legs of the partridge are raised, and tied together over the apron, crossing each other. For Carving, see observations on Fig. 15.