The New Dressmaker/Chapter 19
False Hem or Facing—Straight Facing—Bias Facing—Shaped Facing—Sewed-On Facing—Applied Facing—Extension Facing—Sewed-On Extension Facing—Applied Extension Facing—Corded Facing—Piped Facing
A FALSE HEM OR FACING is often preferred for the finish of an edge. A garment can sometimes be cut from less material by using a facing, for a hem requires extra length or width while a facing can often be cut from pieces which would not otherwise be used.
A hem is better than a facing for thin materials as the joining seam of the facing would show in transparent materials and would not be pretty.
Ill. 177. Stretching a Bias Facing to Fit a Curve A STRAIGHT FACING is used if the edge to be faced is a perfectly straight line, no matter whether the thread or grain of the goods is straight or bias. The facing may be cut lengthwise or crosswise of the material.
A BIAS FACING is used if the edge to be faced is curved, for the bias facing can be stretched to fit the shape of the edge. To stretch the facing press it, stretching it at the outer edge as you do so. (Ill. 177.)
A SHAPED FACING is cut the same shape and on the same grain of the material as the part to be faced. (Ill. 178.)
It is used on all edges which are not in a straight line but which are curved or irregular.
THE SEWED-ON FACING—The facing strips are pieced together and the seams pressed open. Baste and stitch the facing to the edge with the Ill. 180. An Applied Facing right sides together. Turn the facing over to the wrong side and baste it down flat along the edge, drawing the seam about ⅛ of an inch from the fold. (Ill. 179.) Baste again along the inner edge of the facing turning in a narrow seam, or cover the edge with seam-binding.
THE APPLIED FACING. Turn under one or both edges of the facing, baste and press. Turn under the edge of the garment and baste it. (Ill. 180.) If the edge draws, clip it to make it lie flat. Baste the edge of the facing about ½ an inch from the edge of the garment; then baste along the inner edge of the facing. (Ill. 180.)
AN EXTENSION FACING is used on any edge which is a straight line or which is nearly a straight line so that the facing can be eased enough to make it lie flat, but not so much that the easing will show after pressing.
|Ill. 181. A Sewed-On Extension Facing|
THE SEWED-ON EXTENSION FACING. Cut a facing twice the width the facing should be when finished, plus a seam allowance on each edge. Baste and stitch the facing to the edge with right sides together. Turn under the loose edge of facing and baste it to wrong side of the garment, covering the seam. (Ill. 181.)
THE APPLIED EXTENSION FACING. Turn under all edges of the facing and baste them. Fold the facing through the center and baste it a short distance from the edge with the edges even. Slip the edge of the garment between the edges of the facing and baste. (Ill. 182.) The applied extension facing should be used when the edge is not perfectly straight and the facing can not be eased to it. (Ill. 182.)
TO APPLY A CORDED FACING. Turn under the edge you are going to face as allowed for on the pattern and baste it. Baste the facing flat to the inside of the edge with just the cording extending beyond the edge. A cord is put in a facing the same way it is put in a cord piping. (Page 130, chapter 26.)
Baste on the right side so that you can see what you are doing. (Ill. 183.) Slip-stitch the cord in place with invisible stitches just under the edge of the garment. (Ill 183.) The free edge of the facing should be turned
under a seam's width and, if necessary, stretched to fit the edge of the garment. If an invisible sewing is desired the turned-under edge of the facing is stitched close to the turning, not to the garment. It simply lies flat against the garment. It does away with the second sewing of the facing to the garment, a thing that few amateurs can do invisibly.
TO APPLY A PIPED FACING. The method of applying a piped facing is exactly the same as applying a cord facing. The cord is simply omitted.