The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch/Volume 1/Part 1/Book 1/Section 5
Sect. V.
Constantinople.—Condoscale.
On the eve of the Sunday of the Rich and Helper (الغني والعازر), the Patriarch of Constantinople sent to take our master to church, to evening prayer. During the day, he had sent him a Συστατιϰὸν, with his own signature and that of the chief clergy; bearing permission for him to go and perform mass on the morrow in the church of St. John the Baptist, in Kum Kapi, according to the custom of all the Patriarchs: and he had issued orders to the clergy of the other churches in that quarter to forego the performance of their own masses, and to assemble all together in the aforesaid church, to assist at the mass of our Lord the Patriarch. They came, in consequence, to visit us immediately, and invited the Patriarch overnight to the ceremony of the morrow; which was the aforesaid Sunday, when we embarked in a boat, and, going round the Emperor's Seraglio, passed behind it. Here they shewed us the Gate of Romanus, mentioned in the Συναξάρια, which is now closed up. Near it is an Ἁγίασμα (Holy Well), resorted to by the Christians on the day of the Divine Manifestation (التجلي). This side of the city walls was built by the Emperor Theophilus, and it is still inscribed with his name, in large Greek characters, thus:
Θεόφιλος ἐν Χρίστῳ πιστὸς βασιλεὺς Ῥωμαίων ϰαὶ αὐτοϰράτωρ.
Near Kum Kapi, among the towers on the beach, they shewed us the Tower of the Emperor Leon (Λέων, Leo) the Wise, wherein was the wonderful mirror which was broken by Michael the son of Theophilus. Close to it is an ancient Mosque or Cathedral (جامع), which they say was formerly a Christian church, and the continual abode of St. John Chrysostom.
We pursued our way till we came to the Scala or landing-place of Kum Kapi, where we stepped out of the boat. The name of Kum Kapi was anciently, in the Greek language, Κοντοσϰάλη. All the Christians, with their clergy, were waiting for us; and advancing to meet our Lord the Patriarch, they conducted him, with torches and thuribles, and every token of honour and veneration, into the above-mentioned church, where a most solemn mass was performed.
They are accustomed, in all these countries, at the time of the prayer Ἄξιον ἐστίν, to bring to the Patriarch pieces of (الشواطف) biscuit, which he takes one by one in his hand, and, making a cross with each piece over the cup and over the paten, in the name of its offerer, he says, "Magnified be the name of the Holy Trinity!" This is what they call Παναγία, which has great value among them; and they carry it with them in their travels, to serve them in place of the communion of the holy mysteries, when any danger presents itself of drowning, or other kind of death.
After the Patriarch had distributed among them the Ἀντίδωρα (or Remunerations,) they all dropped pieces of money into the plate. Then they took us to their houses, and gave a banquet to the Patriarch; and we slept two nights under their roof. We went to visit the rest of their churches; the second of which is dedicated to Our Lady, and is all white. The third is named Saint Kyriaki: upon its door is painted the Creation of the Heaven and the Earth, that is, Πᾶσα πνοὴ (Every breath). The fourth is named after Saint Nicholas. In all of them are new Πολυέλεα, and Σύμϐολα (تمبلونات). The fifth is also dedicated to Our Lady, and is contiguous to the church of the Armenians, who have two churches in Kum Kapi.
On Tuesday the second of Teshrin Essani, which was the festival of Korban Bairam, we went all in a body to the space before the gate of the Seraglio, and saw his Highness the Sultan Mahomet, (whom God preserve!) with his attendants and troops, at his going into Saint Sophia, and coming out. Afterwards we went in to see Saint Sophia, and all its apartments and recesses. We ascended to the second story; then to the third; and viewed its pillars, which are of yellow, green, grey, and variegated stone, and of marble of various beautiful and resplendent colours; also its marble tablets, reaching from pillar to pillar, with marks of crosses still to be traced upon them: as they are likewise upon its beautiful pavement, and all its stones and marbles; upon the Ἁγίασμα or holy fountain within it, and upon its tables of transparent marble. Its chapels and recesses are admirably constructed; nor is it possible for the most eloquent man adequately to praise the beauty of its white marble, the lofty suspension of its cupolas, the well-painted figure of Our Lord the Messiah giving his blessing at the top of the arches and tabernacles; the multitude of crosses upon its walls and entablatures; the variety of figures and paintings of the festivals of Our Lord, which are on the ceiling of the cupolas; the diversity of colours of the mosaic figures, gilt and painted upon it; the number of its doors; the size of the brazen crosses upon them; the multitude of its windows; and, what am I saying?— it is not possible for the human intellect to describe the detailed account of its beauties.