Transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan/Series 1/Volume 2/Itinerary of a Journey from Yedo to Kusatsu
ITINERARY OF A JOURNEY FROM YEDO
TO KUSATSU, WITH NOTES UPON
THE WATERS OF KUSATSU.
BY
LÉON DESCHARMES,
Captain 4th Chasseurs d’Afrique, French Military
Mission of Japan.
Read before the Asiatic Society of Japan,
on the 27nd October, 1873.
———o———
The warm springs of Kusatsu have enjoyed a considerable reputation in Japan for many centuries, though it must be left to the subsequent investigations of modern science to determine the value of this reputation. Be it at it may, the coolness and salubrity of the climate of Kusatsu during the hot months of the year are incontestable, and its comparative proximity to Yedo and Yokohama will consequently attract travellers or European invalids who, even though they may neglect the use of waters still little known to our medical practitioners, will find there during several months the temperature and bracing air of the mountainous parts of Central Europe.
I have thought that a short account of the route I took, the resources of the country, and the various information which I have been able to gather from the natives, would not be without value to travellers in Japan.
Regarding the medicinal effects of the waters, I must leave specialists to settle this delicate question. I had but one mercurial thermometer, graduated to 55° (Cent.), a good instrument, it is true, and registered at the Paris Observatory. But it would be indispensable to have a maximum and minimum thermometer for determining the nocturnal temperature and those of the springs at Kusatsu which vary several times during the day. Nor was I able to determine the elevation of the place, and I only use the figures 1500 to 1600 metres for the altitude of Kusatsu as pure supposition, without attaching further value to them.
Itinerary.
Before entering upon any detail it may be well to state that the traveller can go in a carriage and in one day from Yedo to Takasaki (about 25 ri.) There is even a native service between the two points. The road is often in bad order, and the carriages are inferior. In journeying by short stages the following is the itinerary which I should recommend, and which I myself followed.
1st day, From Yedo to Okegawa 10 ri. |
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From Yedo to Itabashi 2 ri 8 chô. | ||
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ri | chô | ||
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Itabashi to Warabi | 2 | 08 | |
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Itabashi to„ Urawa | 1 | 14 | |
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Itabashi to„ Ômiya | 1 | 10 | |
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Itabashi to„ Ageo | 2 | „ | |
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Itabashi to„ Okegawa | „ | 30 |
Grand halt at Ômiya. Sleep at Okegawa.
1st August Temperature. | Itabashi | 07.00 | a.m. | 28° | 5 |
Ômiya | 12.00 | a.m.„ | 32° | ||
Okegawa | 07.00 | 31° |
Morning, cloudy. Day fine with a gentle breeze S. W. Water drinkable 16°.
2nd day. From Okegawa to Honjô 11 ri. |
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ri | chô | |
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Okegawa to Kônosu | 1 | 30 | |
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Okegawa to„ Kumagai | 4 | 06 | |
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Okegawa to„ Fukaya | 2 | 27 | |
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Okegawa to„ Honjô | 2 | 25 |
Grand halt at Kumagai. Sleep at Honjô.
2nd August Temperature. | Konosu | 06.00 | a.m. | 27° |
Kumagae | 11.00 | a.m. | 31° | |
Honjô | 07.00 | p.m. | 30° |
Morning cloudy. Day fine. Gentle breeze S.W. Water 16°; at Kumagai 15°, 5° and 14°.
3rd day, From Honjô to Minokura (or Sannokura) 12 ri 20 chô | ![]() |
ri | chô | |
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From Honjô to Simmachi | 2 | 00 | |
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From Honjô„ to„ Kuraganu | 1 | 18 | |
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From Honjô„ to„ Taksaki | 1 | 19 | |
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From Honjô„ to„ Kameyama | 4 | 00 | |
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From Honjô„ to„ Sannokura | 3 | 18 |
Grand halt at Takasaki (very bad water). Sleep at Sannokura.
3rd August Temperature: | Shimmachi | 5.30 | a.m. | 25° | 5 |
Takasaki | 8.00 | a.m. | 25° | 5 | |
Sannokura | 7.00 | p.m. | 28° |
Fine. Gentle breeze. Storm in the evening at Sannokura. Water at Sannokura 15°.
4th day, From Sannokura to Sugao 712 ri. | ![]() |
Mountain path, practicable for horse, or foot or in kago. | ||
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ri | chô | ||
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From Sannokura to Oto | 4 | 13 | |
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From „Sannokura to„ Sugao | 3 | 00 |
4th August Temperature: | Sugao | 12.00 | 28° | ||
Sugao„ | 07.00 | p.m. | 27° | 3 |
Fine. Water (at Sugao) 14°.
5th day, From Sugao to Kusatsu 6 to 7 ri ? | ![]() |
ri | chô | |
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Sugao to Naganohara | 4 | 00 | |
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Sugao to„ Kusatsu | 3 | 00 |
5th August Temperature: | Sugao | 04.30 | a.m. | 23° | 5 |
Kusatsu | 12.00 | 23° |
General observations.
The total distance is from 46 to 47 ri. The general direction is N. W. in relation to Yedo which renders the route disagreeable in summer, as no advantage is gained from the S. W. breeze, and the traveller has the setting sun before his eyes during the whole of the afternoon journey. From Yedo to Shimmachi, the road is in general monotonous, traversing a vast plain slightly undulating, rich in cereals, and where the mulberry is much cultivated for the purpose of silk-worm rearing. This plain, especially as you approach Honjô, vividly recalls those of Lombardy by the character of its cultivation, the number of rapid streams which line the route, and the peaks of the chains of distant mountains which rise upon the horizon towards the W. and N. W.
II.
Water-courses, Roads, Remarkable Points,
Products.
The road traversed bears the general name of Nakasendo. It is the main line of communication from the centre of Nippon between Yedo, Kiôto and Ôsaka. At Itabashi there is a small stream flowing into the large river known in Yedo as Ôgawa or Sumidagawa. Before arriving at Uwarabi this large river must be crossed. It is there called the Todagawa. Its source is to the East of Mount Komposan, which seems to be the starting point of several considerable streams, and from this point as far as Kumagae it bears the name of Aragawa. It flows from its source to Kumagae in a north-easterly direction, and from that point to Yedo in a south-easterly direction, passing through Yedo and falling into Yedo Bay.
From Monnt Komposan flow: on the north, the river Chikumagawa which runs northward and empties itself in the Sea of Japan; and on the south, the Fujikawa which runs southward into the Bay of Suruga, passing to the west Fusiyama. This massive mountain becomes therefore remarkable as the dividing point between the waters of the Pacific Ocean and the Japan Sea. To the south-east of these mountains the Temmokusan is also the point of departure of several streams which form a secondary basin represented by the river Tamagawa, which flows from the W. to E. and runs into the Bay of Yedo at Kawasaki. Another secondary basin is formed by several streams which, rising on the N. E. slopes of Fusiyama, flow into the Bay of Sagami after a course mostly south-east.
From Uwarabi to Kumagae the road takes the left Bank of Todagawa. Kumagae is an important producing centre. A large trade in cotton and silk-worms’ eggs is carried on there and the number of houses is estimated at from 1000 to 1200.
All this country (Musashi no Kuni) is rich and well cultivated. The mulberry grows in abundance, as do maize, various cereals, rice, and cotton. Tea is but little produced and is of an inferior quality.
Leaving Kumnagae, an arm of the Todagawa is passed, much diminished in summer, but which, judged by the breadth and rugged appearance of its bed, must be a formidable torrent at certain times of the year. Between the arm of the Todagawa and Honjô, towards a point named Okabé, the traveller leaves the basin of Todagawa to pass into that of the Tonegawa. Crossing a small affluent on the right bank of the latter river, he arrives at Honjô, an important centre of 1000 houses owing its importance less to its commerce than its position, the point at which the Nakasendô branches off to Nikkô. Formerly and at no distant date numerous travellers and pilgrims journeyed from Ôsaka and Kiotô to Nikkô. After leaving Honjô the road to Nikkô takes the special name of Reiheishi Kaidô, trending due north in order to pass the Tonegawa at a distance of about 1 ri, and from thence taking the direction of Nikkô.
The Tonegawa appears to take its rise to the north of Mikuniyama and Otokoyama, among a series of mountains the eastern slopes of which would form the basin of the Chikumagawa (Sea of Japan) and those of the western side would give rise to the various affluents of the Tonegawa (Pacific).
The Tonegawa flows to the N. E. as far as Shimmachi, and afterwards to the E., discharging itself by one branch into the gulf of Yedo, and by another directly into the Pacific to the north of the gulf of Yedo, forming in these two directions a confused delta, after having received numerous affuents from the mountainous countries comprised between Asamayama, Kusatsu and Nikkô. The Tonegawa is crossed by ferry a short distance before Shimmachi; the broad, rough and stony bed of the river shews that this passage can hardly be made without difficulty at certain seasons of the year.
Shimmachi is a place of no great importance; a road leads from thence to Tomioka (a distance of 6 ri) where the government has established a model silk-spinning factory, under the direction of a Frenchman, M. Brunat. After Shimmachi the traveller passes an important tributary of the left bank of the Tonegawa, and arrives at Takasaki, the point where he leaves the Nakasendô to reach Kusatsu. Towards the west may be perceived the summit of Asamayama, crowned with smoke and whitish vapours, and from the west to the north and northeast a confused series of high mountains. The boundary of the plains forming the basin of the Tonegawa is now reached.
Takasaki is an important centre, furnishing everything necessary to the inhabitants of the surrounding mountains, and attracting to itself all their trade. The town which is very long, extends itself on both sides of the Nakasendô and contains about 2000 houses.
A large trade is carried on there in cotton goods manufactured in the country, particularly in stockings (tabi). A certain quantity of silk worms is also bred there and it seemed to me that the great number of these were the Yamamai (bombyx of the oak?). The drinking water, which since leaving Yedo has been invariably found good, and of a mean temperature of 15°, is very bad at Takasaki.
The Nakasendô, which we leave at Takasaki, and with which we shall have nothing more to do in this itinerary, seems then practicable for carriages from Yedo up to this point, but although the route may appear good at a dry season of the year, the nature of the ground clearly indicates that this same road would become heavy and often impracticable after continuous rains. The formation on this line, which opens up great commercial centres, of a macadamized road practicable for carriages in all weathers, would greatly advance the prosperity of the country.
The passage of the secondary branch of the Todagawa (Arakawa) after Kumagae, and of the Tonegawa in advance of Shimmachi may offer insurmountable difficulties at present, and can only be secured by the construction of bridges with stone piers strong enough to stand against a sudden rise of the stream.
From Takasaki a footpath winds across rice fields, and after passing Kameyama, follows the left bank of a small tributary of the Tonegawa as far as Sannokura. The ascent then begins to make itself felt: we are entering into the mountainous region.
At one place it is only possible for a jinrikisha to pass, and this with difficulty, while the ground is broken and uneven. It is preferable to travel on foot, on horseback, or in a kago. The temperature is sensibly lowered, the nights are already cooler. On issuing from the village an old ruined temple may he observed surrounded by venerable and very remarkable trees, the situation presenting some beauty. From Sannokura to Oto the road rises continually, and walking becomes more difficult. The views are picturesque and varied. Fresh springs of an excellent quality gush from the mountain. The vegetation, always rich, changes its aspect, and varieties of the oak, walnut and chestnut are observed.
On arriving at Oto the traveller enters another basin, the waters of which springing from the north of Asamayama, flow from west to east, and empty themselves into a main current which passes to the west of the mount Mitsunesan, and flowing from north to south, discharges itself upon the left bank into the Tonegawa. There is nothing remarkable about Oto but its very picturesque position, and traces which would seem to indicate that the spot had been formerly a consecrated one. Frequent cultivations of hemp (asa) are met with from Oto to Sukao and further on. The Japanese enclose it in long boxes of rectangular form, wherein it is packed in bundles placed vertically.
Beyond Kameyama the transport of goods is performed on the backs of men, horses or oxen. The country is stocked with mares; entire horses are in general excluded. In the same manner more cows than bulls are to be seen. The pack-horses are quiet, coarse and capable of supporting great fatigue. The shape of the back which resembles that of the mule enables them to carry enormous loads. The weight of the burden fixed by the Government is 32 kan which, at 4 kilos per kan is 128 kilos, but generally they are loaded with three bags of rice each weighing 16 kan or a total of 48 kan equal to 192 kilos, an almost incredible weight. The animals travel 9 ri per day over very bad roads. The hind feet are unshod; on the fore feet the waraji is fastened. They boldly face the steepest gradients and descend the worst paths being guided solely by the voice, the simple bridle in the mouth being used only to stop them. The mares are singularly good-tempered, are well treated by the peasants, nor have I ever been witness of a single act of brutality. This breed of animals, though ill-looking, is precious, and great caution should be exercised in introducing foreign blood into it, especially that of American stallions, of which the Government, to its cost, has had some experience during the past two years. The cows are fine, in good condition and very gentle. A little milk can always be got from them. These observations are applicable ta all the mountains of this basin.
Sugao is a miserable village of no resources and it is difficult to find there even a bad inn. A peasant showed me for a few tempos two somewhat curious animals taken in the mountain. One is of a rodent family, a kind of grey squirred which must be somewhat analogous to what is commonly termed the flying squirrel. An elastic membrane on either side unites the anterior and posterior extremities. It is armed with very strong claws, and is about twice as large as the common squirrel of Europe. Its eyes are very convex, and its dread of strong light makes me believe that it is a Nyctalope. It feeds on nuts and fruits it is called by the natives momoga. The other was a bird of the family of the waders, which lives on fish caught in the streams. There is no appearance of a tail, which gives it a singular look. The specimen I saw was, indeed, very young. It is said to grow to the height of four feet.
From Sugao to Naganohara the roads becomes more difficult and picturesque. Before reaching Naganohara you pass, by means of a bridge of very original construction, a deep and rapid stream running between high banks, which is fed from various sources, notably from the northern slopes of Asamayama, and from Yokozasayama (the latter to the N. E. of Asamayama.)
This stream flows from Kazawanoyu, the source of the warm springs, runs from west to east, passes to Kawazanoyu, also the source of warm springs, and receives at Naganohara the torrent produced by the warm waters of Kusatsu. On the left bank of the torrent the waters of Yomonoya and Sawatari are to be found, at the foot of Yakushigatake, and on the right bank Ikao, sources sufficiently celebrated, near to Mount Kompirayama.
After a somewhat disagreeable walk of 3 ri Kusatsu is reached. On leaving Naganohara the road overlooks the torrent which it commands from a considerable elevation. This portion of the road is not without difficulty for horses which are either restive or not sure-footed. In the almost vertical sides of the rocks which flank the path a natural recess has been availed of to rear a temple of singular picturesqueness. The remainder of the road presents slopes of much difficulty of ascent and descent, but in no sense dangerous.
III.
Kusatsu.
Kusatsu is at this moment (1873) a village consisting of a hundred or so of houses built round the numerous springs of warm water which gush from the soil, it may be said, at every step. These springs are nearly all concentrated in a kind of tank so commanded by the hills, that from the village itself none of the interesting scenery of the neighbourhood can be seen. But as you ascend the surrounding slopes to the south east, the remarkable summit of Asamayama comes into view, the foot of which is only 6 ri distant, and towards the east and north east, a chain of wood-clad mountains, which, without possessing the imposing character of the Alps or Pyrenees, are not wanting in a certain grandeur and present considerable attractions to pedestrians. The vegetation, more sparse and less rich than that of the lower plains, is still respectable, though the various kinds of trees do not attain any great size. Tall thin pines, similar to those of central Europe, are to be met with and the birch begins to appear. Ferns are abundant. Considerable spaces may be seen covered with a tall thick grass which has given its name to the district (kusa grass, tsu place). Another etymology is kusa, a root signifying ‘stinking,’ and tsu a river bank where people collect to wash clothes, &c.
Resources.
The village of Kusatsu was formerly large and numbered, it is said, 1000 houses. A fire almost entirely destroyed it in 1872 and it is now rising with difficulty from these ruins. The crowd of Japanese who assemble here to gain relief from their frighful maladies is very large and it is difficult to find lodging room. It is also to be remarked that you only see at Kusatsu Japanese of the lowest class, the victims for the greater part of horrible diseases. The tea-house which combines the greatest conveniences is one named Nakagawa, in the centre of the village. There is in this house a warm spring of the lowest known local temperature and therefore best suited to Europeans, who are not accustomed to being boiled alive. But this house, which is the rendezvous of the Japanese of the lowest class, has the great inconvenience of being very noisy. Few nights can be passed without the accompaniment of samisen, geishas and the cries of drunken men. The complaints of Europeans on this head are unheeded, and the proprietor prefers to his European customers his ordinary Japanese visitors who cross him in nothing. The tendency to raise prices upon foreigners is soon seen in little details after a few days, and this will increase from year to year.
Lodging may be also had among the bonzes who are pleased to gain a little money. But the temple is on a hill remote from the springs and is not therefore convenient for those who visit the place for the sake of the waters. There are also two or three small tea-houses where accommodation may be had near the stream known as the Kompirano yu on the NW of the village. As regards the means of subsistence the country furnishes little. The neighbouring fishermen bring to market good mountain trout (Yamome) and a small fish called ai—the latter but rarely. Quails (udsura) are also to be found. The land grows potatoes and beans, eggs are plentiful, but chickens or ducks are scarce. Game is found in the winter, hares, pheasants, wildboar, deer and even bears, but in summer it is almost impossible to obtain it.
Climate.
The climate of Kusatsu appears to me to answer perfectly to the wants of Europeans during the hot months. A series of more accurate observations subsequently made will give greater certainty to the assertions which I would at present make with some reserve, as I had neither the means nor the time to observe very carefully. According to approximate comparisons, having, as I have said, no more than this value, I suppose that the elevation of Kusatsu is between 1300 and 1500 metres. The mornings and evenings are cool and the nights often cold. I regret that I had no registering thermometer to give an exact idea of the temperature at night, but I imagine that it falls to 18° even in August. I did not observe any maximum over 26° when it must have been torrid in the plains.
The day breezes appear to be generally as on the coast, S.W. and S.S.W and are of almost daily occurrence. The solar rays from a clear sky have certainly the same intensity as on lower levels, but are tempered by the elevation and the pure air of these regions. They are thus bearable and even in the middle of the day walking produces no distress. There were frequent storms during the month of August, but the rains were moderate and generally short. The appetite soon becomes stimulated, remains good, exercise is felt to be agreeable, and sleep profound and restorative. Mosquitoes are unknown and flies rare in airy houses.
The springs of drinking water are numerous and very various in the midst of a confusion of waters of all kinds. Some are passable, others very good and pains must be taken to find them. Near the Nakagawa inn there is on excellent one with water at 11°.5 and oven 10°, slightly aperient in its effects, but it may be taken in any quantity with impunity. Earthquakes seem rare and the inhabitants show their indifference to them by building houses of two stories, which recall the châlets of Switzerland. Roofs are at a very open angle and weighted with large stones. This peculiar feature is observable from Sannokura. The inhabitants leave Kusatsu at the end of October and return towards the middle of May. During the winter months a sufficient number of men to guard the house is left. The snow is said not to exceed three feet in thickness, and the inhabitants only move to a distance of 2 or 3 ri, where they find a tolerable climate.
General Aspect of the Warm Springs.
In the centre of the village there is a large rectangular tank whose largest dimensions are from W. to E. Several streams and neighbouring springs are concentrated here. This tank, constructed in ages long past, is a sufficiently remarkable work, for it was necessary to divert the springs and build in water of a high temperature—perhaps from 55° to 70°. It was covered in and divided into many compartments, but the fire of 1872 entirely destroyed this edifice.
The waters towards the East enter by a fall of from 4 to 5 métres and this is used for douches in the lower part of the tank.
These waters fall into a stream of warm water which, issuing from the side of the mountain on the N. E. of the village, flows through the village from the N. W. to the S. E, and having received all the waters from the various springs, joins, after a tortuous course among the surrounding hills, the stream of Naganohara, which, as I said above, carries off all the water to the Tonegawa and from there into the Pacific.
The central tank and all the springs and streams produce constant whitish vapours of a sulphurons odour. The vegetation is in no way tainted by these exhalations, and grass and trees grow to the edge of these streams which stand at a temperature of 55° and upwards. The bed of the streams, the stones of the tank, and the conduits employed to conduct the waters are by turns green, yellow or white, according to the composition of the waters, of which I will speak further on.
A study of the phenomena produced by these waters, would be extremely interesting and well merits the attention of the specialists who sooner or later will devote themselves to it. The temperatures change several times a day. The maximum appears to be towards the middle of the day, the minimum at sunrise. I give this observation, as all others, under full reserve. Curious phenomena occur. The principal stream (which I shall name N. O.) received some years ago a small affluent on its right bank. This affluent was also warm and ran intermittently every other year, but for the last seven years it has disappeared. The dry bed of the torrent is now called “Sainogawara” (The dry river of souls.) A hot spring which rose vertically to the hight of one metre from below the soil also disappeared in 1870. The Japanese regard it as the place of departed infant souls. On the numerous rocks of this dry bed they superstitiously heap up small stones which produce a very singular effect. Among these rocks is one which the Japanese regard and show with much curiosity. It is a rocking stone which can be set in motion with the hand and then regains its equilibrium. It is called Irugishi. The site is wild and suggestive of superstitious legends. At a short distance there is a natural circle in a lonely and silent spot. A number of stones ranged around suggest a wrestling arena. The place is named Oni-no Sumôba, “the arena of the devil’s wrestlers.” Beyond this a path leads through the grass to a place, distant about 3 kiloms. which the Japanese glorify with the name of the Kôriba or Kôridani glacier. There are rocks exposed to the full north, and in the crevices of which lurk small remants of snow and ice, but I could not find as much as would weigh a pound. I have enlarged upon these details because they are the only curiosities of the country. Beyond this small excursion, at a greater or less distance, some picturesque site, some torrent or remarkable wood may be found, but the environs are but little known. The celebrated volcano, Asamayama, the crater of which, always emitting smoke, is to be seen at a distance of 6 ri, and the lurid glare from which may be seen on dark nights, is a further attraction to the tourist. The ascent has been made several times; it offers some few difficulties but attracts the natives but little.
In 1870 (or 1871?) the volcano ejected stones to a distance of 2 ri. Several houses were destroyed and lives lost. In the neighbouring mountains there are certain peaks which may easily be ascended, among others Shiraneyama, but they afford only a small interest, the weather being rarely clear enough to afford a fine distant view.
It remains for me to speak of the warm waters, their composition and effects as well as the manner in which they are taken.
The subject, indeed, is wholly within the domain of medical science, and I can only be expected to give uncertain information upon it. There exists in the country a very old work entitled “Niutô annaiki” which may be translated “the bather’s guide,” containing the names of the principal springs and the disease which should respectively be treated at them, as well as a series of precepts for the use of the waters, precepts which contain among many false ideas some sound and wise counsels the justice of which I have learned by experience. Even in default of science the practice of several conturies has enabled these people, themselves ignorant, to discover some useful rules. I have deemed it useful to give as accurate a translation as I could of this little work, only adding to it a few observations and the registered temperatures.
Before entering upon this technical portion of my task which may not interest all my readers, I shall conclude this paper by observing that according to the national traditions these waters of Kusatsu and their virtues were discovered from 1000 to 1100 years back. The peasants were the first to make experiments with them. But subsequently, Yoritomo, hunting one day in the neighbourhood of Asamayama, and having fallen sick, heard from one of the peasants of their singular virtues. He used them with benefit to himself and thus became the author of a reputation for them which many centuries have not diminished among the people of Japan.
IV.
Composition and effect of the Waters of Kusatsu.
The waters would seem à priori and by the accounts of the natives, to contain the following elements:
Sulphur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Yuwo. |
Alum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Miyoban. |
Sulphate of Copper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Tampan. |
Arsenic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Yosiki. |
Borax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Hosha. |
either pure or mixed according to the springs. A scientific analysis made on some samples taken to Yedo will hereafter give more exact results.
The temperature of these springs or streams ranges from 38° to 55°, 60°, 70° and above. In each spring the temperature varies several times daily.
V,
Translation of the “Niu to Annaiki” or
Bather’s Guide.
1.—The spring called “Goza noyu.” Appears to be exclusively sulphurous; Temp. above 55° (estimated at 55° to 70°?) Useful for the treatment of the following diseases.
1 | Raibiyo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Leprosy |
2 | Gambiyo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Opthalmia |
3 | Sho harimono . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Every kind of soft tumour. |
4 | Mumei no dokimono. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Ulcers without names (precise.) |
2.—The Spring “Netsu noyu.” Seems to contain sulphates of different salts. Temperature very high. Much frequented, especially by syphilitic patents.
Useful for the treatment of—
1 | Taidoku | Constitutional Syphilis? |
2 | Hizen | Inveterate |
3 | Yokone | Bubo or reduced syphilis. |
4 | Senki | Renal disease. |
5 | Yobaiso | Syphilitic eruptions. |
3.—The Spring called “Kakke no yu.” (The water seems composed of sulphate of copper in 3 tanks. Temp. 47° 48° and 52°). Useful for the same diseases as No. 2, and for diseases of the lower extremities (kakke, dropsy?)
4.—The spring Wata no yu. In 2 tanks. Temp. 46°.5 to 48°.
Useful for the treatment of—
01 | Hiyesho | Shivering. |
02 | Hizen | Inveterate scabies. |
03 | Hitsu | Simple scabies. |
04 | Mushi | Intestinal worms. |
05 | Mune senaka itami | Pains in the chest and back. |
06 | Koshino itami | Renal diseases. |
07 | Senki | Renal diseases.do. |
08 | Goji | 5 affections of the rectum. |
09 | Koshino yamai | Renal diseases. |
10 | Rōgai | Consumption. |
11 | Hakkiyo otoroi | Nervous fever? (Seminal weakness.) |
5.—Spring called “Takinoyu.” (The fall on the East side of the great tank;—Height of fall 2 to 3 metres. Sulphates of copper and alum. Temp. 43° to 47°.)
Useful for the treatment of—
01 | Jōki | Congestion of the head. |
02 | Dzutsu | Headache or neuralgia. |
03 | Meimai | Fainting. |
04 | Kennun | Vertigo. |
05 | Gambiyŏ | Opthalmia. |
06 | Raibiyō | Leprosy. |
07 | Uchimi | Contusions or contused wounds. |
08 | Namadzu | White leprosy. |
09 | Hizen | Chronic scabies. |
10 | Renso | | ?
11 | Tan | Excessive expectorations. |
12 | Moro morono sto doku | All syphilitic diseases. |
6.—Spring called ”Washi noyu.” (Tem. 49°.5 to 51°.) Useful for the same maladies as No. 4, and for—
1 | Rimbiyō | Gonorrhœea. |
2 | Jishitsu | Eczema of the arms, |
3 | Dukko | Prolapsusani. |
4 | Tanseki | Catarrhal cough. |
7.—Spring called “Mansu no yu.” (Temp. 46° to 41°.) Useful for the same affections as No. 2, and further for Rimbiyō, Dakko, Jishitsu. Mentioned in No. 6.
ShodokuSyphilis.
8.—Spring called “Chio no yu.” (Destroyed by the fire of 1870.) Useful for—
1 | Kasa no ruiSyphilis. |
Taidoku, Hizen, and Yobaiso. |
9.—Spring called “Jizo no yu.” (Temp. 48° to 52°.5. Useful for the same maladies as Watanoyu No. 4.)
10.—Spring called “Kompira no yu.” (This spring situated at the foot of the temple of Kompira Sama on the right bank of the stream N. W. flows through the several tanks at a temperature of 42° 46° and 48°. Seems to be composed of sulphates and aluminates. Useful for the same affections as Nitsu no yu No. 2.) People attacked with Raibiyō, Numadzu, Tamushi and Dekimono are formally excluded from it.
11.—Spring called “Tama no yu.” This spring is entirely destroyed. The following maladies used to he treated by it; Hiyesho, Mushi, Mune sanaka itami, Hizen.
12.—Spring called “Ruri no yu.” (This spring is destroyed.) Useful for the same maladies as Tamu no yu No. 11, and further for Mambiyō. Patients attacked with Raibiyō are excluded.
13.—Spring called “Shirasu no yu.” (Spring destroyed.) The following diseases were treated here.
1 | Shitsu | Simple scabies. |
2 | Hizen | SimpleChronic scabies.„ |
3 | Senki | Renal disease. |
4 | Subaku | Hysteria? |
5 | Hiyesho | Chills. |
6 | Kasa no rui | Syp. diseases. |
7 | Tadare | Inflammation. |
14.—Spring called “Niegawa no yu.” (Destroyed). The following diseases were treated there.
1 | Umi | Pus. |
2 | Shiru | Leucorrheea. |
Spring in the Nakasawa tea-house.
(This spring is not cited in the above work. It has a taste strongly tainted with alum, and contains sulphur and sulphate of copper. The inhabitants use it but little on account of its temperature which they find was 38° to 42°). Europeans suffering from slight complaints seem to derive benefit from it. Constant use of it seems to provoke irritation of the skin especially in the folds. It stimulates the functions of the kidneys. The following rules of Japanese hygiene are applicable.
Rules to be observed in taking the waters.
‘On arriving at Kusatsu after a long journey and fatigued, it is well to repose for some days before commencing the treatment. The baths must not be resorted to in excess at first. During the first three days of treatment not more than three a day should be taken. After five or six days one may advance to five or six baths but never more than this. In general rather than decrease the daily number of baths it is better to intermit a day if necessary. The ordinary duration of the cure is three weeks, and for more serious cases from seven to ten weeks. For the gravest cases from 100 to 150 days. It is well to repeat the treatment the next year at the same season, in order that the germs of the disease may be uprooted. The number of baths should be limited, and their effect is diminished if this rule be neglected. During the first six or seven days, simple bathing should be resorted to, after this period the action of the douche may be submitted to. It is most dangerous to take this too early.
In order to take the bath, the water must not be entered at once. The skin must first be moistened with a towel or sponge soaked in the warm water; the hands, feet, armpits and breast. The hair must be allowed to float unfettered (this is for the natives and for women) and a hishaku (dipper) should be used to pour water over the knees, shoulders and head. Only after this preparation should the bath be entered. It is not well to remain too long immersed. If this is done the blood mounts to the head, the lungs become congested, vertigo ensues and consciousness is lost. It is not uncommon to see accidents of this nature happen to persons who use the baths without these safeguards. (I have been a witness of this; the natives often lose consciousness while taking excessively hot baths.)
Generally speaking, and if the virus is diffused throughout the body and into the members, syphilitic patients on taking the bath should place a folded cloth upon ulcerated portions of the body and dab them repeatedly with another cloth. In this manner the virus can be quickly expelled from the body. (Text is obscure here.)
In spite of adherence to this treatment it some time happens that fits of shivering are experienced, headaches, intolerable irritation of the skin over the whole body, eruptions on the skin and slight excoriations which produce distress. But these need cause no disquietude; they are signs that the disease is diminishing: the impure blood is disappearing. (Irritation of the skin more or less acute almost invariably accompanies the treatment. It is well to intermit the baths for a few days in case this irritation becomes very severe and to wash the parts most affected with white rice water. After a stay of proper duration at Kusatzu it is customary to pass a few days at the neighbouring villages the waters of which have the property of allaying the irritation produced by the waters of Kusatsu. When the skin is irritated, and in general, it is not well on coming out of the waters of Kusatzu to rub it with force as is customary among Europeans. It must be dried by light dabbing, and hot clothes should hot immediatly be put on, practices recommended elsewhere by the Jupancse author. It is well to remain unclothed for few minutes.)
It also happens at times that the sight becomes disturbed, as if foreign bodies or small specks, had got into the eye and this is very distressing. But neither need this cause disquietude. In four or five days the trouble disappears and the sight becomes stronger than before the period of treatment. In general every species of malady seems to increase at the commencement of the treatment. This arises from the fact that the malady is commencing to disappear.
In regard to the vertigo and faintings of which mention was made above no anxiety need be felt about them. They are favourable symptoms. If the irritation of the skin under the armpits and between the thighs really become very distressing, and even if, on the patient trying to allay it, a yellowish fluid appears, this arises from the virus of the scabies (Hizen) coming from the body. No heed need be given to this.
Method of taking the douche.
The water must first be entered as above described and the patient can then go under the douche. The soles of the feet, the hams, the shoulders and head should he submitted to it: not so the chest, belly or back, for this is dangerous in each case. It is bad only to douche the affected part, or to remain under the influence of the douche too long. It is best to remain in it but a short time.
General observations for the treatment of
Leprosy, &c.
For different phases of leprosy Raibiyô, Numadzu Tamushi, a cautery (fire) (issoku; lit. one hundred points of fire, by the moxa) must be placed around the discolored spots so that the virus cannot spread. For lepers it is of small consequence to place the moxas on any part of the body whatsoever. (This phrase can only be understood after it has been explained that the Japanese only put fire to certain fixed parts of the body the moxas are applied to each affected spot on the body and on the surface comprised in this perimeter. Four kinds of moxas are used respectively called, large, middling, small and “moxa for the face.” The last is used for the face alone.)
On the day fixed for this operation, a bath is taken before noon, and then interdicted. The moxas are applied at 8 o’clock (2 p.m.) The use of the bath is suspended until the following day at 10 a.m. If a bath were taken immediately after the operation the fever caused by cauterization would be exacerbated and this would be dangerous.
Whatever may be the gravity of the leprosy, the cautery must not be applied without intermission. After each application there must be an interval of five days when the moxas must be placed between the former blisters.
Be the gravity of the malady what it may, the preceding rules must absolutely be adhered to.
(A great number of the unfortunate victims of this dreadful disease are to be met with at Kusatsu. It is easy to recognize them by the sight of their bodies which are literally covered with the scars of cautery. In such numbers, indeed, do these scars exist that but for their regularity it would be imagined they were due to a natural eruption. It is pretended that no pain is felt during these cruel operations, and that a complete insensibility of the skin is one of the characteristics of leprosy. The Japanese do not regard it as contagious except through sexual contact. They add, however, that women are then attacked with leprosy.
One of the first symptoms of leprosy consists in a whiteness and unusual brilliancy of the skin. The disease is virtually incurable, and the severest treatment arrests its course but slightly. Its frighful effects in Japan must be known to all.)
In conclusion, the sick of all the provinces (of Japan) who require to take the waters can go to Kusatzu when they will. The inhabitants return to the mountain on the 8th day of the 4th month of each year (May). Still it would be an error to imagine that the place can only be visited at that time. If a malady takes a very aggravated form, the waters may be taken from Shôgatsu (January—February) and even before this. But at that time of the year bathing must only be indulged in by day.
The above rules have been epitomized in the service of bathers.
“Me arai yu.” Special Spring for the Eyes.
‘This spring is to be found behind the “Gozanoyu” where the water issues from a small rock-cleft. The other warm springs of Kusatsu cause a painful smarting of the eyes—probably owing to the presence of sulphate of copper. The water from this source, on the contrary, causes no smarting. Immediate benefit to the sight accrues from its use: (this assertion is actually true). All cases of ophthalmia are positively cured by this water which is truly a gift of the Gods.
Enumeration of prohibitions to be observed while under treatment.
Excess in eating and drinking or in any other form must be avoided, as well as too prolonged a fast; the use of the baths must be temperate and they must not be remained in too long; no bathing from mid-night to sun-rise or during heavy rains or typhoons or severe thunder-storms, and the patient must not shout or sing while in the bath. He must avoid covering himself, on leaving the bath, with warm clothes which cause perspiration. (This observation would appear of questionable wisdom; but it is sanctioned by experience, and I have found myself much the worse for disobeying the rule. Excessive eating or drinking after the bath must also be avoided, as has been said above).
Those who are too fond of wine (saké) are not good subjects for treatment (lit. it is not advantageous, &c.) Yet it is well to banish melancholy and to keep the mind free.
To those who ordinarily digest well nothing is interdicted; but digestions which are delicate and fastidious must not be forced. During the period of treatment food must not be taken which the patient knows disagrees with him in his disease.’
Thus ends this curious little work of which I have given as accurate a translation as possible, a translation which has been reviewed by Mr. Satow to whose courtesy I am indebted for the itinerary to Kusatzu (in July 1873).
I will conclude by advising travellers going to Kusatzu to finish their course of the waters by a stay of a few days at Sunawachi and Ikao, villages in the neighbourhood also possessing warm springs, and to return to Yedo through Nikko, striking the “Reiheishi kaidô” at Takasaki, or more directly, through the mountains from Ikao to Nikko. But this latter route which saves only 9 or 10 ri is very difficult and impracticable with luggage.
The waters of Ikao are hot (40° to 45°) and do not appear to me to contain any salt. Those who have gone through a course of treatment at Kusatzu are recommended to stay at Ikao to get rid of the eruptions and distressing irritation caused by the former waters. This assertion is well founded. The stay at Ikao is also extremely agreeable in view of its pleasant climate.
Leon Descharmmes, Capt. 4th Chasseurs d’Afrique,
French Military Mission of Japan.
Table of Temperatures[1] Observed from the 1st to 31st August 1873.
(From Yedo to Kusatsu—Station at Kusatsu—from K’su to Nikko.)
Date. | Morning. | Noon. | Night. | Water. | Winds. | Observations. |
1 | 28.5 | 32 | 31 | 16 | S. S. W. | Morning Misty. Fine. |
2 | 27 | 31 | 31 | 15.50 | ... | ... |
3 | 25.5 | 29 | 30 | 15 | ... | ... |
4 | 25 | 28 | 27.5 | 15 | None. | Fine; Storm in the evening (Sannokura) |
5 | 23.5 | 23 | 23 | 14.5 | S. W. light | Fine; Misty at night (Kumatsu). |
6 | 20 | 25 | 20.5 | 15 | S. S. fresh. | Fine (Warm Spring 37 to 55.—70). |
7 | 20.5 | 24.5 | 22 | 14 | ... | ... |
8 | 21 | 25 | 24 | 12 | None. | |
9 | 23 | 26 | 22 | ... | S. S. W. | Fine; Storm and rain at 3 p.m. |
10 | 21 | 25 | 24 | ... | ... | Fine. |
11 | 22 | 26 | 23 | ... | None. | Cloudy. Storm at night. |
12 | 25 | 26 | 23 | 11.5 | Variable. | Cloudy; Incessant rain. |
13 | 22 | 23.5 | 23 | ... | ... | Fine; cloudy. |
14 | 21 | 25.5 | 22 | ... | S. fresh. | Fine; Storm; rain. |
15 | 20 | 25.5 | 23 | ... | S. W. | Fine; Storm and rain at 4 p.m. |
16 | 20 | 23 | 20 | ... | Variable. | Cloudy; Great rain. |
17 | 18 | 20.5 | 30 | ... | ... | Constant rain. |
18 | 18 | 21 | 21.5 | ... | S. W. | Uncertain. |
19 | 20 | 26.5 | 25 | 14 | ... | Fine; Storm (at Sawatari a p.m. Warm Springs 37 to 50. |
20 | 22 | 27 | 24 | 14 | ... | Fine; Storm (at Ikao 6 p.m. Warm Springs 40 to 45. |
21 | 23 | 25 | 24 | ... | S. W. light. | Overcast (Ikao). |
22 | 25 | 27 | 28 | ... | S. W. | Rain (Takasaki). |
23 | 27 | 27 | 28 | ... | None. | Rain; Stormy (Ota). |
24 | 23 | 31 | 28 | 16 | ... | Fine (Tochigi). |
25 | 27 | 22 | 26.5 | ... | S & S. W. | Fine. Rain at Night. (Itabashi). |
26 | 23.5 | 25 | 25 | ... | None. | Overcast. Rain at 6 p.m. (Nikko). |
27 | 22.5 | ... | 25 | ... | ... | Fine, Cloudy, Rain at 7 p.m. (Nikko). |
28 | 21.5 | 22 | 21 | ... | ... | Incessant rain. |
29 | 22 | 23 | 23 | ... | E. & N. E. | Violent Storm (Typhoon?) (Nikko). |
30 | 23.2 | ... | 26.5 | 16 | S. S. W. | Rain, fine. (Outsunomia). |
31 | 22 | ... | 30 | ... | S. W. | Fine. |
The indicated temperatures are Centigrade.
(Formula for reducing Centigrade to Fahrenheit:—Multiply the degrees of Centigrade by 9, divide the product by 5, and add 32. This will give the degrees of Fahrenheit.)
ITINERARY OF A JOURNEY FROM KUSATSU
TO NIKKÔ, AND FROM NIKKÔ TO TÔKIO.
From Kusatsu to Nikkô you may pass directly over the mountains, but according to the information I have gathered this route is difficult. The paths are scarcely visible, and you are not sure of being able to procure coolies and beasts of burden.
The route which I followed and which I am now going to describe, is, on the contrary, easy and pleasant. It offers the advantage of taking the traveller to two warm water springs, the use of which is recommended after the use of the Kusatsu waters as mollifying the skin and puting an end to the often intolerable irritation provoked by the Kusatsu waters. Besides, in taking this route, you strike a high-road that enjoys a certain celebrity in Japan, and really is worthy of the traveller’s attention on account of the gigantic trees which adorn it. It is known under the name of Reiheishi Kaidô. The route is divided into two principal parts:
1st. From Kusatsu to Takasaki.
2nd. From Takasaki to Nikkô.
If you wish to travel pleasantly and without too great fatigue, it will be convenient to go
From |
|
3 | days. | ||
From |
|
4 | days.„ | ||
|
7 |
First day.—From Kusatsu to Sawatari, about 9 ri.
The road passes over hill and through dale and the scenery is very picturesque. Throughout you enjoy the sight of Asama yama, whose summit is crowned with white clouds and makes a splendid effect. Yon also see Shirami yama, but its effect is much less remarkable. Both these mountains have been climbed, Asama in August 1873 by an officer of the French Military Mission, who took some observations.
In Sawatari there is a good inn at the entrance of the village. Here, too, are several springs of warm water analogous to those of Kusatsu, but much less strong. Unhappily the tanks are repulsively dirty, and it is impossible to use them.
2nd day. From Sawatari to Ikao, about 2 ri.—The road is very picturesque, now ascending, now descending. Travel on foot, on horseback or in kago only is possible, and this is also the case on the road from Kusatsu to Takasaki. Ikao is a large village, built in terrace form on a high elevation; from it you look down upon an immense plain, the basin of the tributaries that flow into the left bank of the Tonegawa, which I have already described.
There is a very good inn called Chigira almost at the entrance of the village and on the right side of the main street. From this inn you have a magnificent view, and as a spring of hot water enters the very house there are great facilities for bathing. The tank is clean and well arranged. The water is a little too warm for Europeans and must be cooled somewhat before entering it. Its temperature is from 45° to 48° (centigrade).
It does not appear to contain any salt, and it produces a pleasant sensation on the skin; it is a little muddy and must contain clay in a state of solution. Outside the tank, in the inner court of the inn, a small pond has been made from the cooled water, and there may be seen gold fish living in a temperature of 35° (centigrade).
Ikao is surrounded by woods, and the temperature of the air is very pleasant. In this place a summer might very comfortably be passed, because here are fewer invalids than at Kusatsu, and the surrounding country is much more varied in scenery and picturesqueness. Besides this you are only one day’s journey from Takasaki, where whatever may be wanted can be procured from Yedo.
3rd day. From Ikao to Takasaki about 6 ri.—The road is picturesque. The descent into the valley, where the temperature unfortunately rises again, is rapid.
4th day. From Takasaki to Ota. 1012 ri.
5th day. From Ota to Tochigi. 10 ri.
6th day. From Tochigi to Habashi. 10 ri.
7th day. From Habashi to Nikkô. 5 ri.
The whole of this part of the route can be done in jinrikisha. The ground is generally level, and several rivers must be passed. Before Shiba is reached (fourth day) a large tributary of the Tonegawa is met with. The bed of this river is very broad, and its current rapid.
The traveller passes through very important villages, Ota, Sano, Tochigi and Kanuma. These large centres are not very agreeable; the inhabitants are as yet not accustomed to see foreign travellers there, and it is rather difficult to obtain a lodging. If it is intended to make a halt in these large villages, the best thing is to send a servant beforehand to collect information. The local police is often timid.
Before reaching Nasawara commences that superb row of trees which perhaps is unparallelled in the world. Both sides of the road as far as Nikkô are planted with a double row of trees (sugi), three centuries old, planted, it is said, by the daimiô living when Gongen Sama’s successor founded Nikkô.
It is to be regretted that the peasants from the neighbourhood put fire to the surrounding grass and bushes. Already the fire has several times reached these magnificent avenues, and some day their total destruction might happen. May I venture to hope that the President of the Asiatic Socity will call the attention of the Government to this point?
At Imaichi this road joins the direct road from Tôkiô to Nikkô, and from that point the trees are, if possible, yet more remarkable. It would be sad indeed if such an avenue should disappear, even if only partially, through the carelessness of the local authorities.
In order to afford tourists facilities for making changes in the above itinerary I shall give the same hereafter in every detail.
I do not intend to say anything particularly upon Nikkô, because it has already been the subject of several descriptions. I shall only warn the tourists that yearly from the 24th to the 30th August the roads are swarming with pilgrims, who then travel in numbers to Nikkô and to the holy lake. This assemblage of pilgrims is very curious, but at the same time it makes the road much less agreeable. It is difficult to find an inn where one is not annoyed by a large number of them.
If this itinerary is followed, you will have travelled upon the Reiheishi kaidô in almost its whole length. As I already have had occasion to remark in the itinerary from Tôkei to Kusatsu, the Reiheishi kaidô separates itself from the Nakasendô (or Kisokaidô) at Honjô, passes thence directly northwards, over the Tonegawa, and continues its northerly direction as far as the village of Goriô, the point where we again meet the road in coming from Takasaki.
From Goriô to Tomita, that is to say for almost 15 ri, the Reiheishi kaidô follows a northwesterly direction, passing over 12 or 15 more or less important tributaries to the left bank of the Tonegawa.
From Tomita to Imaichi the road again turns to the North, and thence after having joined the Nikkôkaidô, or the road from Yedo to Nikkô, it goes eastward to Nikkô.
RÉSUMÉ OF THE ITINERARY FROM KUSATSU TO NIKKÔ.
From Kusatsu | to |
|
9 | ri | 00 | chô. | ||
to„ |
|
9 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
6 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 18 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 18 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 18 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 30 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
2 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 30 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
2 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
0 | ri„ | 18 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
2 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
3 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 18 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 18 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 28 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
2 | ri„ | 08 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
1 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
2 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
2 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
57 ri 24 chô. |
Note.—The ri has 36 chô.
Practically the ri may be taken to be 4 kilometres, and this calculation will prove rather under the true distance, because the estimation of distances is very inaccurate in these countries, and when a Japanese peasant says 2 ri a journey of 9 kilometres may be counted upon.
On the other hand the printed itineraries, which are found in all the districts, make a ri longer than it in reality is whenever a river has to be passed in ferry boats. It is well to be warned of this fact, which is explained by the time lost through the passage in the ferry.
The itinerary of the return journey from Nikkô to Tôkei is well known; I give it hereafter for information, with the addition of only one detail which may interest the tourist, viz: that if you have undertaken a journey at a season when the rivers are swollen in consequence of rains or melted snow, it is easy to return to Yedo in an agreeable way and without much fatigue. For this purpose you stop at the large village of Koga, on an important tributary of the Tonegawa, and here you can hire boats that carry you in ten or twelve hours to Yedo and even to Nipponbashi, thanks to the magnificent canal which unites the Tonegawa with the Ô-kawa not far from the sea.
RÉSUMÉ OF THE ITINERARY FROM NIKKÔ TO TÔKEI.
From Nikkô | to |
|
6 | ri | 00 | chô. | ||
to„ |
|
4 | ri„ | 13 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
5 | ri„ | 04 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
3 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
2 | ri„ | 20 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
6 | ri„ | 02 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
4 | ri„ | 20 | chô.„ | |||
to„ |
|
4 | ri„ | 00 | chô.„ | |||
55 ri 23 chô. |
L. Descharmes,
Captain of Cavalry,
French Military Mission in Japan.
- ↑ The temperature given in our last number were erroneously given as Réaumur. They should have been, as these, Centigrade.