Transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan/Series 1/Volume 3/Part 2/An Excursion into the Interior Parts of Yamato Province
AN EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR
PARTS OF YAMATO PROVINCE.
BY
Capt. St. JOHN, R.N., H.M.S. “Sylvia.”
Read before the Asiatic Society of Japan on the
17th February, 1875.
———o———
Before beginning a short account of an excursion I made in connection with the survey of this part of the coast, I should like, considering the little that is known about the east side of the provinces of Kii, Yamato, and Isé, to draw a slight sketch of the whole coast-line from Oosima, in the extreme south, to Toba in the North.
Oosima, in Lat. 34 27 N., Long. 135.52′ E. with its two excellent lights, one on the East point of the Island, the other on Siwo misaki, the extreme south, and turning point of the Kii peninsula, is now well known to Europeans who have travelled between Yokohama and Kobe. Vessels also coming from Hongkong, or the ports of China, very frequently make Oosima, either by day or night, thanks to the two good lights mentioned.
From Oosima the coast trends N. E. for about 10 miles, to Arundel point, just inside and to the southward of which is an excellent anchorage for small vessels, called Urakami; again immediately round and to the north of the point is another equally good but small harbour, named Katsura. The famed waterfall Natchi no taki, 275 feet high, is only 412 miles from here, and strong hot sulphur springs are found close to the village, and within the bay. So strong and effectual are the waters, that seven days bathing is professedly ample time to cure the worst form of scabies; and fourteen for other diseases more serious than ordinary cutaneous affections.
The waterfalls—for there are three—follow at a short distance from each other, in the following order. The lowest is 275 feet high and has a clean drop, coming over a mass of rock which forms the back of an amphitheatre-shaped mountain. It falls into a deep pool, then rushing amongst great boulders for some distance, finds the more level valley further on, and reaches the sea just behind Katsura. On following the stream for 300 yards or so from the top of this fall, the second is reached. This, like the first, falls over a slab of rock seventy feet or so in height, into a beautiful clear pool, which is shut in all round; and so near do the trees approach overhead, growing out and almost hanging from the rocks, that at first sight they almost appear to touch. The only outlet to this extraordinary place for a river to find its way to, is its own course, as it flows, or to the great fall. Above the second fall there is another about fifty feet in height. They are all very beautiful, but the second is as wonderful as it is beautiful.
Near the lowest fail is a cluster of temples, with a grand old avenue leading up to them. One of the sugi trees, which had been cut down, I made out to be 283 years old; which agreed within a few years of the date given by the Japanese. Here the head of all the Shinto priests resides and the principal temple is built.
A short way north of Katsura, the previously broken and rugged coast line gives place to a long straight stretch of sand and pebbled beach, which runs N. E. without a break for 15 miles, butting up against a steep promontory, the beginning again of a wild, broken line of coast, which, still keeping the same N. E. direction, continues 70 miles to Toba, at the entrance of the Owari Gulf. Harbours and bays with water too deep for anchorages, are found all along this 70 miles of wonderfully beautiful coast.
Singo, a town eight miles north of Katsura, is the only place of any importance whatever, and this mainly from its trade in wood, which is brought down by means of no less than twelve rivers, which joining in one, near Singo, form a short way above the town a fine stream of water, with ample depth for large junks, which, however, can only cross the bur during calm and favorable weather. The population of Singo is about 4,000.
A few ri up the river there is a coal-mine, the coal is brought to Katsura in boats, stored in large quantities, and shipped off to Yedo and other places. I took in 50 tons for trial, excellent in appearance, but it simply refused to burn; when mixed, and so assisted, with some different kind I had on board, it did fairly well. It is very hard and heavy, and free from dust.
None of these provinces grow sufficient rice for their own consumption, but this is not surprising considering that the only rice cultivation of any extent is near to Singo, where a plain of some square miles extends back from the beach to the foot of the mountains.
There is one other place worthy of note, more for the employment of its people than for its extent or importance. This is Kozaura, five miles W. of Oosima, at the mouth of a viver called Koza Gawa. Wood and whale’s flesh are the two articles of export, and as the mode of catching this leviathan of the deep may not be without interest, I will try and describe the novel method which is pursued. I believe the species of cetacea, which finds its way into the open deep bays, and in the different eddies, near points, caused by the great Kuro Siwo, rushing past the coast, to be the Balena Mysticetus, but this I cannot with any certainty affirm; it is not unlikely that other smaller kinds are often caught. In passing I may mention that in the east of Yeso I have seen on numerous occasions, the little known and rare species the high-finned cachalot (Physeter Tursio). As soon as whales are seen, basking about the surface, or lazily moving near the coast, which very frequently happens during the winter months, several boats put off in pursuit armed with nets, and rough iron spikes stuck in the end of long bamboos. As nets are rather curious implements to capture these great monsters with, a description of those which are employed is necessary.
The mesh is about a yard square; size of rope about three inches. It is made up in large squares, each side being 30 or 40 feet deep. These squares are attached to each other lightly, at the corners, and middle. The length of the whole net is about 200 feet, which is carried in two boats, and on getting within distance of the whale, the boats separate, dropping the net as they go, and again meeting on the other side, enclose the whale. If this is successfully done, and the great brute disturbed, he almost invariably strikes the net, as he dashes off. Whichever square of net he strikes breaks away from the rest, and now the faster he goes the more it clings to him. He dives, plunges and kicks to no purpose, and soon becoming confused and worried, returns to the surface, when the same process of surrounding him with another net is gone through. Again he dashes off only to become more confused and frightened, when coming to the surface once more, tired and worried, he is pierced with the primitive harpoons mentioned, until killed. He is then towed on shore, cut up, and sold for food—and very repulsive food it looks.
Owasi Bay, one of the numerous indentations I have mentioned as occurring along the coast, is situated about half way between Oosima and Toba. It affords excellent anchorage for vessels of any size, particularly in one of its long narrow arms, where the most complete shelter, easy of access in all weathers, is found. It was from here I had to go inland, to reach the summit of the highest range of a multitude of ranges of mountains, of which the Yamato province consists. Grand and beautiful mountains they are. The peak of Odai Yama is seen from seaward, when clear, for a great distance, the mountains north and south of it gradually rising and meeting in its flattish double-looking top. On enquiry I ascertained that it was possible to get there, but the inhabitants at Owasi knew little or nothing about it, beyond fabulous stories of wild beasts, and the wonderful distance to be seen from its summit.
Having made arrangements for a ten days’ trip, I started to make the ascent on the 15th October 1874. The first five miles led up the course of a beautiful clear stream, which winds down between steep abrupt mountains, 2000 feet high, and falls into one part of Owasi Bay.
We soon left the level,—for in this five miles we had not ascended 50 feet—and for 512 miles toiled up a single mass of mountain, to a height of 3113 feet. Of course the path zig-zagged, turned boulders, crossed streams, sometimes found a flattish spot, then wound round spurs, and, lastly, emerging on the Peak, opened on a magnificent view. What surprised me regarding these mountains was the mass of rock, the huge stones and little soil of which they are composed, and at the same time the wonderful exuberance of the flora.
Lowest down and particularly in sheltered valleys or dips, the sugi trees flourish, growing so thick and close together that it is all but perpetual night underneath their yellowish green tops. The sugi vies with the wo matsu (Pinus massoniana), which is the commonest and most utilized tree in Japan. The hinoki appreciates the same sheltered situations, but is never grown so thickly together. It also flourishes at the very summit of the hills and mountains, as high at last as 5000 feet. But these trees are self-sown, and always isolated, growing straight and strongly, having evidently outrun or beaten their immediate neighbours, which appear stunted and twisted. Next to these,—I am speaking of the coniferæ—comes that lovely tree Picea Firma, the native momi. It is a true cedar in every way, and in appearance resembles that of Lebanon. Only one more beautiful species do I know out here, that is the Abies Iezoniensis. This magnificent tree I found flourishing in the far East of Yeso, and on the S. W. end of Kunishir Island. Adies microsperma, a picturesque though much smaller tree (none that I have seen being over 40 or 50 feet in height) grows on the higher ranges, particularly on the summit of Odai Yamuna. There also I found Abies Veitchii, a beautiful species of silver fir. The cone of this species is very small, dark purple, tinged with brown, growing erect near the axillæ of the branchlets. The scales are very horizontal, and the cone usually splotched over with resin. Pinus Silvestris (Scotch fir) is not plentiful, though found on these mountains.
I have now named most of the coniferæ growing in this locality. There are a few other species, less common and only found in a few places, and then generally as single plants. But those I have mentioned constitute the cone forests, and of all these none grow to the height and large dimensions of the Pinus Firma. Many a magnificent old patriarch I came across, frequently a dozen or more, in the space of an acre or so, all colossal trees, and in rare perfection as timber; but as to their being made timber of, they are perfectly safe, as it would be impossible to transport them as such to the habitation of man. I am only 3100 feet up and have but named the Pines. To enumerate the deciduous shrubs which I have passed through would be an endless task. I observed great numbers of myrtles, camellias, the wild paper mulberry and innumerable other species.
From the summit of the first range, where we now were, and looking back, the whole sea-coast lay at our feet, the indentations and harbours, looking like threads of silver, running and twisting amongst the hills and valleys. The path now led away along the ridge of a range at right angles to the one we had ascended, and for 312 miles we went very evenly, then dipped down 1,000 feet, crossing a mountain torrent, and immediately ascended to 4000 feet. Here was a great change in the Flora, nothing but oak, beech, chestnut and maple, no pines, the under cover bamboo grass, identical, I believe, with that in Yeso. Along this 4,000 feet ridge, we went for several miles, when suddenly the path reached the crest, and then descended with terrible steepness, along only one shoulder of the mountain, to 1,500 feet. What a wonderful spot we here reached! A few very poor inhabitants had clustered together forming a village of about ten houses, called King umi, situated on the steep slope of the hill side, in an almost perfect crater, so steep and straight did the mountains rise all round.
There was but one opening where a clear stream of water rushed over great boulders, joining a large river close by, which flowed away to the southward for 70 miles, before reaching Singo. The small patches of potatoes and other vegetables round the cottages, were all barricaded in with stout wood, (quarter trees) to keep the deer and wild boar out. I was charmed to find here a domesticated bee, even then busily working, notwithstanding the lateness of the day and season. One cottage had six hives, rough square boxes, sheltered with some bark from the rain. The bee is similar to our own, but rather smaller, and as for the honey, it is excellent. I must just add before closing the first day that we had again left the oak and chestnut and returned to the region of the henoki and sugi. From here and along the course of the river these two cedars are grown, and when cut, floated to Singo.
Here I must remark that immediately after topping the first range of mountains from the sea, all the streams and rivers took a southerly direction, and though close to the sea coast—about six miles as the crow flies—none found their way there.
Occasionally during the day I came upon men and women carrying immense loads of staves for tubs, all ready cut, and soon found that they went many, many miles into these wild forests, until finding a suitable tree they felled it, and there and then cut it up into tub staves; to do this they had to return to and fro frequently, atire; some and laborious task. We had come from first starting at Owari Bay not less than 18 miles, all the way, except the first 5 miles, up and down mountains, the highest being 4,000 feet. At Kingumi we put up for the night.
Next morning we started at eight, getting almost immediately into the river’s bed, and for 312 miles followed its stony rocky, upward course, crossing it in that distance than twenty times. Frequently the cliffs obliged us to crawl round them through the thick tangled cover, again taking to the slippery stony bed of the river, to leave it shortly for another scramble. Fortunately it was all rather up hill, which lessened the chance of falling. I know nothing more trying and disagreeable to walk over than smooth water-worn slabs of rock, and big boulders. It would be impossible to give an idea of the extraordinary steepness of the mountain sides as they rose from the river course, many of them crowned by magnificent castellated rocks, 2,000 feet above us. Marvellously grand they looked, covered with the lovely autumn tints of the oak, maple, &c. After three and a-half miles along the river, we breasted the hill, and after a continuous climb of more than three hours, reached the crest. Striking off along an irregular plateau, we arrived at our destination at half-past three, being still four miles from the summit of Odai Yama.
The mass of mountains we had now reached, 4200 feet above the level, spread out for a great distance, in an irregular plateau, here and there varied by rises 500 or 600 feet high, and traversed everywhere by numerous streams.
The highest peak on this singular table land was the spot I wished to reach, and is called Odai Yama.
The whole of this immense extent of mountain is covered with primeval forest; generally there is no underwood, but a soft carpet of the greenest moss covers the ground. The trees are likewise coated with moss and lichen. As I gazed upon the great stems of these self-planted and never disturbed trees, all I may say of good size, and most of them of grand proportions, I could not help internally ejaculating, “What a waste of Timber!”
Five years since, the Japanese Government decided to form a settlement on this space of table-land, although there exists no way or means of getting there except by climbing the steepest and most precipitous mountains imaginable. They cleared away—or rather merely cut down—about 12 acres of wood, on a spot or glade through which there streams traverse, meet, and flow away in one. Here they built a house for an official to superintend the settlement, &c., set up a water-mill,—what for, I could not make out,—dug up a few square yards, certainly not more than twenty, and planted potatoes. Then, as might have been foreseen, they pronounced the enterprise impracticable, shut up the house, and left. The house, though partially in ruins, afforded us good shelter. It was built on the bank of one of the streams, which happened to be full of excellent trout. Here in half an hour, and with an impromptu wooden spear, we caught daily as many as we pleased.
The magnificent great oak trees which had been cut down, were lying about just as they had been left, many of them three feet in diameter, and fifty feet of clean stem. It appears unfortunate that none of the good timber, abounding on these mountains, is ever likely to be turned to use. I see no means of getting it down from these heights. It is an undertaking of very considerable labour for a man to get up or down when unencumbered, and the transport of large logs of timber to the river would be, I consider, impossible. The beech which flourishes on the nearer ranges, and which is of large growth, might possibly be utilized. There are no people more persevering than the Japanese in the way they farm the hill sides with timber. None appear too steep or rough, and wherever the sugi and henoki will grow, there it is sure to be found cultivated. This, of course, is on the mountains nearer to the sen, and close to the villages.
Having reached towards evening the dilapidated house I have mentioned, and caught enough trout for supper, I was not sorry to turn in and rest. Next morning, very soon after daylight, I started with only the guide, for the top, in hopes by going quietly to come across a bear, wolf, or nigoo. Crossing a stream, we came upon the fresh track of a bear, whose wet foot-marks were still on the stones, where he had left the water. But he was not to be found, though I followed him some distance. In two hours the summit was reached, rather more than 1000 feet above the rest-house, the total height being 5400 feet. Here on climbing to the top of a tree, which most conveniently had its top twisted off, I found the Japanese had not exaggerated the view to be obtained. Although I shall never forget it, I feel it is useless to attempt to describe it. Suffice it to say, all the coast, and the interior as far as the eye could reach, lay before me. No higher range sprang up to intercept the view. Far away in the distance Fusi yama rose out of a curtain of mist, and another great mountain further to the North and West, the name of which I do not know, was also to be seen. The former was 150 miles distant; the latter not so far. it is surprizing how great an extent of country Odai-yama, notwithstanding its moderate height, commands. I had only half succeeded with the theodolite, when down came a shower of rain, from the N.W., which quickly settled into a wet afternoon. The next day was spent mostly in the clouds: it cleared away towards the afternoon, but not in time to reach the top and return before dark. The day after this I was again at the summit soon after daylight, but it thickened over before I finished, so I spent an hour or two roaming through the beautiful primeval forest. The perfect silence that reigned was only disturbed by the big black and white woodpecker, as he tapped the trees with his hard sharp bill in quest of insects. The wolves were not howling as they did when I first reached the tops two days before.
Next day it blew a good gale—and what a grand sight it was! These glorious forests, which yesterday were so still and silent, now roared and howled, as the gusts of wind rushed through them; branches were broken off and hurled away, trees felled, and cracked off like twigs, and the air was thick with flying leaves. It was a wild and grand sight, the streams soon became good-sized rivers, for it rained in torrents the whole time.
The storm lasted throughout the following day, but towards evening the wind hauled to the north, and I felt sure fine weather would follow.
The next morning the sun was scarcely up, when I started for the summit. Bitterly cold it was, the ground was frozen and crisp and the frost still silvered the trees and grass. The soft curtains of mist which were floating lazily about the dips and sides of the rising grounds soon dispersed as the sun rose higher in the heavens, and an hour spent on the summit finished my work. I saw a nigoo when going up, but though I got a snap shot, he went away untouched.
Before quitting this elevated spot, on my downward journey, I must add a few lines relative to the different natural objects which I found there. To begin with the largest animal, bears; they are certainly numerous, almost every oak tree appeared to be scratched and clawed by these animals. The moss covering their rough bark was torn off and hung down in strips. They evidently climb these trees to feed on the acorns. It is a small black species of bear, not half the size of that inhabiting Yeso. Wolves are abundant; they howled even during the day time close to us. The nigoo is a true species of chamois, and a handsome animal. I saw one of them: as I have said; they are numerous and afford food for the wolves. Deer are scarce; they prefer the lower ranges. Wild boar abounds and hares likewise.
All the streams at the top besides those lower down literally swarmed with trout, which were busily engaged spawning, while that little robber the water-ouzel, was as busily employed destroying the spawn, singing and diving and thoroughly enjoying the good food before him. This bird I may remark is identical with our own species, with the peculiar and interesting difference of not having the white horse-shoe patch on the breast, which the British species has. A single snipe of that large species Gallinago Australis, remained several days about the water near the house, and then disappeared. The common wren, often in its funny, inquisitive manner, would appear from some thick bush, utter its very long gong, and after watching me for a few moments, bob itself out of sight. I saw also a large spotted wood-pecker, a bird I have only previously found in the extreme North of Nipon, the common jay, copper pheasants, an the robin red-breast. I was very pleased to find this latter bird, and to notice how exactly he resembled our own species in their bold impudent nature, as well as plumage; they appear only to differ in not having quite so much red on the breast, as those at home. I may also mention the bullfinch, whose note and habit are exactly similar to the English birds.
What delighted me greatly was the beautiful open woodland clear of brush wood and undercover, the soft green carpet of moss under foot and the perfect stillness and quiet. Oak, maple, beech, and chestnut, constituted the principal deciduous trees. Of these the oak, and beech, were invariably fine timber; the chestnut frequently, if not generally, sprang from the ground in two or three stems. The pines I have already mentioned, with the exception of a species of spruce, which I do not know, but which flourishes on the higher slopes. Yew of fair dimensions grew on the summit; henoki only moderately. I do not think the Japanese care much for the momi pine; at any rate I have never seen it cultivated. That wonderfully hard close-grained wood of a yellowish tint, much resembling box, and from which combs are manufactured, is found on Odai Yama; its native name is Tsagi. Another very peculiar deciduous tree, I saw, but only here and there, called sarta; it has a red skin-like bark, and is very hard and close grained. I might go on almost endlessly in speaking of the numerous species of deciduous trees, which here, unmolested by man, spring up, flourish and die, but I fear I have already dwelt too long on a single subject. Once more I may add I see no means by which these great forests of excellent timber can be got from their high and difficult situations, to the habitations of man.
The rocky courses cut through the mountains by the innumerable streams and rivers, shew generally limestone, and rough coarse granite, with a sprinkling of sand stone; higher up the rocks and stones are smaller, and granite predominates.
I started about noon for the downward journey, but instead of returning the same way, struck away to the N. W. for four miles, along the ridge of a long spur of Odai Yoma; here we dipped down a few hundred feet, and fell upon the main road, or rather path, between Osaka and Singo. Turning to the S. E. for eight and a quarter miles along the path, we then suddenly descended from a height of 3,000 feet to 480, where in a village situated on a beautiful stream, swarming with trout, we found comfortable lodgings for the night. This afternoon we passed a cluster of huts on the hill, side some way to our right and far up a deep valley. The old guide when I enquired the name of the village, said there was a gold mine there, worked by one hundred people, under the superintendance of a Government official. Unfortunately it was not feasible to reach the place that day or I should certainly have visited it. It rejoiced in the name of Nishi no mura.
After resting for the night at Totchi moto, where there may have been about 50 houses, I started next morning at eight, mounted immediately to 2,700 feet and then descendod to a most rugged pass cut through the mountains, by a torrent of the clearest water, which after rushing down its headlong course over boulders and masses of limestone rock, joined one of the main rivers at a level of 400 feet above the sea, where five houses constituted the village of Nagouchi. We reached this place about noon, wet to the skin. It had rained in torrents since eight in the morning. From here we ascended again to a height of 3,000 feet. The coolies were nowhere, so I struck off along the sharp ridge, knowing by compass that the direction was right, but being enveloped in mist and rain. I was not sorry when in a couple of hours time I came across the same path I had passed along eight days before.
Being now certain as to my whereabouts, I made the best of my way to Owasi, reaching the ship at six, having since starting at eight, done bout twenty miles in distance, and ascended in the aggregate about 8,000 feet.
And here finished a cruise I shall always remember with pleasure and interest. I only wanted a little more time for exploring, as my hands were tied by having to watch my opportunity for making the necessary observations at the summit. Before starting on the journey I had estimated the height of Odai Yama at 5,000 feet, to enable me to calculate the temperature, which proved however lower than I had anticipated. During the nights it was very cold, the lowest I registered the thermometer was 28°, and it froze pretty hard on two occasions.
I have only to add, that this wild region which stretches almost entirely across the peninsula, and far away to the north, is full of interest to the naturalist, while to the lover of scenery it presents views of the wildest and grandest description. The Japanese know very little about it; the charcoal burners are the only beings who penetrate far into the interior, and they never approach the inner masses of mountain, of which Odai Yama is but a single chain.
A General Meeting of the Society was held on Wednesday evening, 17th February, at the Grand Hotel, Dr. Hepburn in the chair.
The minutes of the last meeting were approved, and it was announced that Mr. Montague Kirkwood had been elected an ordinary member since last general meeting.
Sir Harry Parkes then read “A description of the coast between Oosima and Toba Harbours, and an account of an excursion among the forests and mountain ranges of the province of Yamato,” by Captain H. C. St. John, Commanding H. M. S. Sylvia.”
After the paper had been read a vote of thanks to Captain St. John for his interesting contribution was moved by the Rev. Mr. Syle, seconded by Mr. Drummond Hay, and carried unanimously.
Mr. Syle then remarked on the especially interesting and valuable character of the Paper just read; and questioned whether there might wot be constructed on the hill-sides of Yamato such timber-shoots or “slides” as were found in the forests of Germany and Oregon: also, it seemed very desirable, if indeed the true chamois is to he found in Yamato, that its skin should be utilized as leather, and its flesh for food.
Mr. Brunton said:—This country is no doubt, at present, badly off for timber, and it would be a great matter if the Government could do something towards utilizing the extensive forests described by Capt. St. John. The only really available hard wood at present in use is kiaki, and Capt. St. John mentions oak trees as existing in this district, of immense size. We know of oak being found in Yezo, but I have not heard before of its existence on the main island. If it is the true oak, this is an additional and a very powerful reason for some steps boing taken to bring these woods into use. So long as the way to the sea is down hill I hardly think there can be any insurmountable difficulty in getting the timber to the habitations of men.
Professor Ayrton said mention had been made in the paper of the evening of the charcoal burners penetrating far into the forests to obtain the wood. Possibly this would furnish an explanation of the comparative high price of charcoal, which could scarcely be found either in the coat of the burning or in the value of the wood, and therefore must be sought for in the difficulty of transport. In the case of the hard kinds of charcoal, which were much dearer than the soft charcoal, the cause might really be the great difference of value of the woods. Although all the Japanese burnt charcoal, the actual consumption really was not as large as it might at first sight appear to be, since, the hibachi being closed at the bottom, the absence of draught made the burning go on very slowly.
Mr. Brunton suggested that as Capt. St. John’s paper was confined to a description of the coast between Oosima and Owasi Bay, a request might be sent to him, along with the note of thanks already agreed to by the Meeting, to furnish another paper describing that part of the coast between Owasi and Soba. From his own knowledge he was aware that the harbour of Mura Goza und Matoya were among the most wonderful natural basins in this part of the world, and as Capt. St. John had most excellent facilities for acquiring information, he was in a position to supply papers of the greatest interest and value.
Six Harry Parkes undertook to convey the request to Captain St. John, and the meeting then terminated.