Twenty years before the mast/Chapter V
CHAPTER V.
On the 13th of July we got under way and stood out to sea, all the squadron in company except the Sea Gull. The ship Relief directed her course towards the Sandwich Islands, and the rest of the squadron towards the South Pacific, or summer seas. Next day we fell in with a Peruvian brig very much in need of water. We were most happy to be able to supply them with the necessary article. On this day the following order was read from the quarter-deck: "The undersigned, commanding the U. S. expedition, informs the officers and crews under his command that, as they are now about to visit the islands of the Pacific and to have intercourse with their inhabitants, he wishes to inculcate on all in the squadron that courtesy and kindness towards the natives which are well understood and felt by all classes of mankind; and trusts that neither contempt of nor interference with their customs, habits, manners, and prejudices, nor arrogance over them will be shown by any one belonging to the squadron, always bearing in mind that savage natives have but vague ideas of the rights of property, and that theft committed by them has been the great cause of collision between them and civilized nations. He would therefore enjoin upon them all great moderation in everything respecting their intercourse with them, that no act of hostility will be committed, and that an appeal will be made rather to their good-will than to their fears. That the manner of trading established in the squadron will be most strictly adhered to by all, and that in event of difficulties or collision all acts of force will be avoided, unless for self-protection. In short, our aim will be peace and good-will and proper decorum to every class, constantly bearing in mind that the future intercourse of our countrymen with the natives of the islands we may visit, will very much depend on the impressions made on their minds by us, and recollecting that it is in the nature of the savage long to remember benefits and never to forget injuries. It therefore behooves us, wherever we go, to leave behind us, whether among civilized or savage nations, favorable impressions, not only as respects this national expedition, but for our flag and countrymen. The commander-in-chief feels confidence in relying on the officers and crews to carry out these views from their good, exemplary conduct, and trusts that he will not have to regret the confidence he reposes in them. Any acts inconsistent with these views will meet with the most exemplary punishment."
August 1st Alexander Ogle, one of our marines, died. He had been sick but a few days. In the afternoon all hands were called to bury the dead, and his body was committed to the deep.
We had very fine weather after leaving Callao. For days and nights together not a cloud was to be seen, and the air was refreshingly clear. This is one of the loveliest climates in the world. I never saw the sea look so smooth as here — not a ripple to be seen on its surface; and if not for the long swell, or heaving of its mighty bosom, it might be taken for a sea of glass.
On the 29th we had a moderate breeze from the west. In the evening we witnessed a grand display of the zodiacal light. It was very bright. Many shooting stars from each quarter of the heaven were also seen. Several of the following days and nights were very cloudy, with much lightning, thunder, and rain, and sudden squalls from the sou’west. We were now making our way very rapidly towards the fairy islands of the Pacific. There are three classes of them, — the low coral, the high coral, and the mountainous islands. The squadron sailed in line, still we sailed over several reported islands and reefs set down on the charts. On the 13th we made the island of Minerva, one of the Paumotu group, or Cloud of Islands. This is one of the low coral or lagoon islands. It proved by our surveying to be only twelve feet above the level of the sea, ten miles long, and six hundred feet to its lagoon. These islands are composed of coral and vegetable matter. We landed, and got some shells, plants, and coral, but the natives soon drove us off. John Sac, a New Zealander, one of our crew, spoke the Tahitian language, which they understand. John swam to the shore and talked to them, but the only answer was several of them crying out at the same time: "Go to your own island. This belongs to us, and we do not want to have anything to do with you." It was impossible to land again and have a peaceful chat with them. It is no wonder that they do not want anything to do with so-called civilized men, after having been so shamefully treated, especially their women, by whalers and traders in these seas. It is a disgrace to civilization. In the center of many of these islands is a beautiful basin of water, called a lagoon. It is of a rich blue tint, and generally has an opening through which the tide ebbs and flows. The pearl oyster is very abundant in these lagoons. The plants and shrubs upon these islands are few, and the cocoanut, growing above them all, is the only fruit or vegetable the islands produce. After lying to all night under the lee of the island, at daylight we bore away for Serle Island, which we surveyed. On the 19th we made Hennake or Honden Island. Here we caught several large turtles, and all hands had turtle soup. There are no natives on this island. The sharks near the shore and in the lagoon were ravenously hungry, and would bite at anything they could reach, so it was not very pleasant to swim to the shore and back again to the boat.
This island was swarming with a variety of birds. They were so tame that we pushed them off their nests to get at their eggs. Among them were the frigate-bird, gannet, sooty tern, and other beautiful tropical birds in large numbers. One could capture any number of them without the least resistance. Some of the curious sights to be seen were crabs walking off with snakes, and then both being themselves borne away by some monster bird. Armies of piratical crabs were seen in all directions, and as for spiders, spider-webs, and snails, there seemed to be no end to them. There were no cocoanuts or fruit of any kind on this island. On the 23d we made the two Disappointment Islands of Byron. This day George Reynolds, ordinary seaman, died on board the brig Porpoise. Our chaplain went on board in the afternoon and performed the burial service.
On the 24th we made the nor’west end of Wytoohee, which island lies in latitude 14° south. The natives seemed greatly astonished to see us, and after rubbing noses with us — their mode of salutation — they would lay their hands on us to satisfy themselves that we were really human. The younger ones were the first to show any freedom, and were disposed to joke with us. While on shore we inquired for their huts. They seemed to be taken all aback. When we had made them understand that they had nothing to fear, they led the way through the bushes of palms to an open space surrounded by cocoanut and pandanus trees. This was their village. On looking into their huts and seeing no one, we inquired for their women and children, when they burst out in great laughter and gave us to understand that they lived on an island where there were none. Their huts are so small they hardly deserve the name. They are six to eight feet long, four feet high, and five feet wide.
We discovered, on the 28th, an island not laid down on any chart. It was named King’s Island, for the man at the mast-head who first discovered it. It was only six feet above the level of the sea. It was a lagoon island, and was eight miles long. After surveying it we bore away for Raraka, and made it soon after. As we neared it another island was discovered to the northward, which was named for our ship, Vincennes. After visiting Dean’s Island, Aratica, and Waterlandt, and discovering Peacock Island, we bore away for Metia, or Aurora Island, and made it on the 9th of September. This was one of the high coral islands, and was totally different from any we had fallen in with. It looked as if it had risen up out of the sea. By our survey we found it to be two hundred and fifty feet high. We took a cast of the lead one hundred and fifty feet from its perpendicular cliffs, and found no bottom with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. On landing we were soon surrounded by the natives, men, women, and children, of all ages, and dressed after the fashion of all nations. They seemed delighted to see us. They gathered round and stared at us just the same as we would at a tribe of Indians walking on our public streets. The young ladies seemed to be dressed in their holiday attire. They had oiled themselves with stale cocoanut oil, which gave them a bright orange look. This oiling process is to keep off the numerous flies, for they dislike the smell of rancid oil. The young women’s heads were adorned with many and gay flowers. On the island we found several refreshing springs. There were also plenty of pigs and hens. Here grow the yam, the taro, the breadfruit, and the cocoanut. The coral reefs are alive with a variety of pan fish and crabs. There was an abundance of large, green "bottle" flies, whose bite is very poisonous. Seeing that the natives had no war-clubs, we inquired for them. They said it used to be all war, but now it was all peace, "mittionari mai-tai, mai-tai," meaning "missionary, good, good "; and that they had no use for clubs or spears now.
At six o’clock, the surveying boats having returned, 
TAHITI, THE GEM OF THE PACIFIC.
The sick of the squadron were taken on shore, and our observatory was put up at Point Venus. This is the place where Captain Cook took the transit of that planet over one hundred years ago. The natives here seemed to be very happy, gay, and cheerful. They are very honest, but are great beggars. The ladies — may God bless them all, old and young! — are pretty; that is, I mean to say, they have handsome, round, full faces, jet- black hair, dark, round, piercing eyes, and large, white teeth. They are of a light olive complexion. But their forms! they are either round-shouldered, knock-kneed, bow-legged, or parrot-toed; some are also badly cross-eyed. It seems as if they can see two different ways at the same time. In fact, Jack says they are lop-sided and out of kilter altogether. Those who wore any headgear had on high, flaring chip bonnets of their own make, which looked like baskets, minus bottoms and a
TAHITIAN GIRL.
portion of the rims, and tied on their heads edgewise. Their frocks were made of silk and of other kinds of cloth, the same width around the neck as around the bottom, drawn in around the neck with a showy handkerchief. The hat worn by ladies is something like a wreath of flowers, made from the pandanus, or cape jessamine. A rose is often stuck through the lobe of the ear, and is a pleasing contrast to their glossy, black hair. The dress of the men is the pareu, a piece of cloth tied round the waist, extending down the leg to the calf, and a gay-colored shirt. Often the shirt without the pareu is seen, and some dress in sailor rig.
They live on yams, taro, bread-fruit, vi-apple, bananas, oranges, cocoanuts, sugar-cane, fowls, and fish. The latter they eat raw. They use neither chairs, tables, nor salt, but instead of the latter they use sea-water. It is very amusing to see them eat. They sit upon mats spread on the earth-floor, both sexes cross-legged, and "sail right in." Each article of food is dipped into the sea-water, and they munch away with their mouths full. Such a smacking of their lips! it is jolly to see and hear them. They are, in fact, perfect gormands. They eat, eat, and eat, until they can scarcely breathe: and then those who are so full that they cannot get up, roll over and go to sleep, and don’t eat again until they get hungry. Their huts are of an oval shape, sixty by twenty feet, and from twenty to twenty-five feet high, built of breadfruit and cocoanut trees. The walls are of bamboo, the roofs are thatched with pandanus. They contain one large room, which is screened off at night with various mats. They are generally built in a grove of cocoanut or bread-fruit trees. A native can live wherever he likes, for food is to be found everywhere in abundance. As for lodging, it never enters his mind, for the Tahitian can sleep just as well on the beach at high-water mark, or under a banana tree, as in his own hut. They are very fond of the water, and when in it are as happy as ducks. They are very graceful swimmers. They tie a line to the top of a cocoanut tree, and on it swing across the water, and sometimes they let go and drop in. They are beautiful singers and are always humming. Nearly every night, about three bells, we were roused from our peaceful slumbers by the fair Tahitian mermaids, who would launch forth from their coral caves with comb and glass in hand, their long hair floating in the breeze. When they reached the beach just ahead of the ship, they would commence to sing. Richer, clearer, softer, or sweeter voices I never listened to in any part of the world. That we might understand and join with them they would now and then sing in our own language "Old Hundred" or "Coronation." They always wound up by singing some familiar sailor songs, which they had learned from the whalers, such as "The Bay of Biscay," "Black-eyed Susan," "When will my Sailor Boy Come Home?" "Bonny Bunch of Roses, O,"
"Off Japan, and wide awake,
Plenty of whales, and no mistake,"
and "We Won’t Go Home till Morning." These Tahitian operas usually lasted till two or three o’clock in the morning, when many of the singers would swim to the ship and beg to come on board. Being refused, they would go back to their coral caves.
This group of islands was the first discovered in the South Pacific, and has been oftener visited than any other islands. Their language was the first native language reduced to writing.
The first missionary society ever formed was in Scotland, and it was called the "Missionary Society," afterwards the "London Missionary Society." This society sent out the first mission-ship, called the Duff. She sailed from Cadwell, England, August 10, 1796, with thirty missionaries on board, a number of whom were accompanied by their wives. Then the first missionary flag — three doves on a purple field, bearing olive branches in their beaks — floated to the breeze from her mizzen peak. The directors of the society received the missionaries of different denominations. Simply as Christians they sent them to the isles of the sea, putting into their hands the Bible, with this brief and simple charge: "Go, beloved brothers. Live agreeably to this blessed Word, and publish the Gospel to the heathen according to your gifts and abilities." The mission-ship was hailed a few days out by a man-of-war.
"Ship ahoy!"
"Ay, ay, sir!"
"What ship is that?"
"The Duff."
"Where bound?"
"Otaheite."
"What cargo?"
"Missionaries and provisions."
Eighteen of these men were left on this island. They must have done a great work, for now they have quite a number of churches and schoolhouses in this group, and many of the natives can read and write.
Saturday, September 14th, arriving on their Sunday, by our reckoning, all labor was stopped, and all hands except the first part of the starboard watch went on shore to meeting. There were two missionaries, Mr. Wilson and Mr. Pratt. The former, a very old man, preached. He came here in the ship Duff. The audience, all native except our crew, listened attentively to the preaching. Sitting cross-legged upon the ground and listening to preaching which we did not understand, was something to which we were not accustomed. The next day, the 15th, being our Sunday, we went on shore again to meeting in the mission chapel. Our chaplain preached. It seemed odd to have two Sundays so near together. Sunday is very much respected here. No labor or games of any kind are allowed; no, not even the picking of a cocoanut, or the paddling of your own canoe, is permitted on that day. In fact, it is more quiet and Sunday-like on the civilized islands of the Pacific than in our cities and towns. There, it is truly the Lord’s Day, and the people not only recognize it as such, but keep it sacred.
The penalty for breaking the Sabbath is making so many "fathoms" of road; for the second offense the number of "fathoms" is doubled. The walk to Papara over Broom Road is lovely, and reminds one somewhat of the shell-road leading from New Orleans to Lake Pontchartrain. It leads around the island, and is about one hundred miles long. It is sometimes called Pomars, or the Queen’s Road. At certain distances there are groves of cocoanut trees planted by Queen Pomars. They form a delightful shade, and travelers are at liberty to help themselves to the fruit. Almost every house has its garden of luscious bananas, tempting oranges, delicious pine-apples, etc. Whenever one of the trees has a piece of tapa tied around it, it is tabooed. This law, the taboo, is always respected under all circumstances by the heathen. Here in our civilized and Christianized land you may see those little signs, — "No trespassing on these grounds," "Beware of the bulldog and the shotgun," etc., but the fruit is stolen all the same.
NATIVE WITH COCOANUTS.
This island, Tahiti, is enchanting, and well deserves the name, "The brightest gem of the Pacific."
"Where the pale citron blows,
And golden fruit through dark green foliage glows."
Several of our men deserted here, and a reward of thirty dollars was offered for each man arrested. They were captured in the mountains and brought down to the reef by the natives. Their wrists and ankles had been tied each to the other, and a limb of a tree run through, the ends resting on the shoulders of the natives. This is their mode of carrying burdens. As soon as the deserters had been brought on board they were ordered to take from the capstan the reward of thirty dollars and place it in the hands of those natives who captured them, after which each deserter received thirty-six lashes with the cat on his bare back.
Having finished the survey of this group of islands we bade adieu to the fair Tahitians and their fairy islands. Then we up anchor and stood out of the bay. It was beautiful indeed to sail along these shores and see the villages, in the coves and valleys, surrounded by cocoanut and bread-fruit trees. The day, as all days in Tahiti, was lovely. The night was as fine and clear as the day, although we had much lightning with no thunder.
A day or two afterward we had a sailor’s tea-party. Through the oversight of our purser, his steward, or some one else, our tea, which was not of extra quality, ran short, and the purser took this opportunity to double the price. In consequence, the crew held a council of war. After some debate we left the matter in the hands of a committee, composed of the petty officers, who were to decide our course of action. It was amusing to hear them laying down the law, and talking seriously about mutiny. Jack Kennison, whose father was in the Boston Tea-party, argued the case first, then Sam Williams, one of our gunner’s mates, then many another "old salt." Finally, the committee gave the following verdict: "We will buy no more of the tea at any price, let this be called mutiny, a tea-party, or whatever they choose to name it." Our mess bill, which we received at the end of each month, read as follows: "Tea, sugar, tobacco, mustard, pepper, bees-wax, soap, white and black thread, thimbles, scissors, palms, large and small needles, dead-eye buttons, tin pots, tin pans, tin spoons." Our division bill: "Pea-jackets, blankets, mattresses, blue jackets, blue trousers, blue flannel shirts, yards of sheeting, yards of dungaree, black silk neckerchiefs, yards of black ribbon, stockings, shoes." Whatever of these articles we wanted, we would sign for, and they would be charged to our account. We now signed for everything we wanted, except tea and sugar, and then, with intense anxiety, awaited the result, expecting every minute to hear the drum beat to quarters, or the boatswain and his mate calling all hands to witness punishment. The commodore and the purser were walking the quarterdeck, next morning, talking very seriously. The former’s face, which was always hard, this morning looked as genial as if he had discovered a new planet. We did not hear any more about tea until we arrived at Sydney. In the meantime our breakfast and supper consisted of a scouse made of yams and taro, and salt junk, with our usual ship-bread and water.
After visiting the islands of Huaheine, Tahaa, Bora-bora, and Maufili, we made Bellinghausen’s Island. This is one of the low coral islands. Here we landed, and made magnetic observations. On the 7th of October we made Rose Island, the most eastern of the Samoan or Navigator group. This is also one of the low coral islands. The tide rises here but two feet, and at high water the island is overflowed. In the center of its lagoon is a most remarkable sight. It is nothing less than a large submerged coral tree, thirty feet in diameter across its top. We sounded, and found over six fathoms of water all around it. Fishes of various colors, shapes, and sizes were playing among its coral branches, presenting a beautiful sight. We captured several turtles, but their flesh was very rank and coarse. The Samoan Islands were discovered in 1678 by Bougainville, a French navigator.