Page:Africa by Élisée Reclus, Volume 2.djvu/80

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NORTH-WEST AFRICA.

62 NORTH-WEST AFRICA. splendour and extent formerly earned for it the title of Magna. The site of the original Leptis, founded by refugees from Sidon, is a lofty headland bounded east- wards by a rivulet, the peninsular bluff defended landwards by three lines of fortifications forming the acropolis. The breakwater, protecting the city from the fury of the waves, is constructed of huge square blocks, like those at the island of Ruad, on the coast of Syria. In this part of Africa, remains of the ancient Phoenician architecture are still found in a perfect state of repair. Within the line of quay walls occur at intervals vaulted recesses about 100 feet long, which Barth thinks nmst have served as dry docks for the Sidonian shipping. South of tlie citadel, on the left bank of the rivulet, was gradually developed the new city of Neapolis, which at last became one of the largest centres of popula- tion in the Old World. IFundreds of thousands of inhabitants were here grouped together, and the edifices of this African city, partly constructed with the surround- ing marbles, yielded in richness and beauty to those of Rome alone. But their very ruins have been invaded by the sands, and many of these monuments lie buried under dunes GO or 70 feet high. A triumphal arch, the date of which is still legible, was here erected by Marcus Aurclius; but most of the buildings of which any traces survive, such as basilicas and mausoleums, were constructed during the reign of Soptimius Severus, who was a native of Leptis, and who con- ferred many privileges on the place. A few columns still lie scattered about, but most of those recovered from the ruins have been removed to England or France, and several now adorn the churcli of St. Germain des Pres in Paris. Amongst the debris of licptis have been found three beautiful cameos, besides a trilingual inscrip- tion in Punic, Greek, and Latin, a monument bearing witness to the multitude of strangers at one time resorting to this great African city. Along the east bank of the rivulet stretched another quarter of Leptis, and on the low ])oiut of land at its mouth stands a fort, which has often been rebuilt, and which commands an extensive view of the ruined city, and beyond it of the palm and olive groves and amphitheatre of Mcsellata hills, crowTied with fortifica- tions, in close proximity to the sea. The' whole place occupied a superficial area five times more extensive than that of the modern Tripoli. Although nearly choked with sand, the port of Leptis continues to be frequented by vessels of light draft, nearly all English, which during the fine season here take in cargoes of alfa grass from the neighbouring steppes. According to the natives, olive culture dates back to Egyptian times, and an olive grove on the Mesellata heights containing some enormous trees still bears the name of " Pharaoh's "Wood." A carriage route connecting Tripoli with the Mesellata district at many points skirts an ancient highway, which may be still recognised by the ruts worn in the hard rock by the chariot-wheels of Carthaginians, Greeks, and Romans. Along this route, the Lirgest group of villages is that of Tajurnh, whose industrious inhabitants occupy themselves at once with tillage, weaving, and dyeing. Tajurah was formerly a bellicose place, constantly at war with the Knights of Malta.