penetrating the surface. Reduce the paint according to the absorbing properties of the surface. Do not be afraid of getting the primer too thin. It must be thin enough to both satisfy and fill the surface and not leave an excess of pigment on the surface. The reduction must be with oil and turpentine, according to the character of the surface. Where hard, close grained woods are to be painted, a large percentage of turpentine must be used to assist in opening the pores of the wood and allow of greater depth of penetration.
The main point in priming is to satisfy all of the surface, thus leaving a uniform, even coating. A soft place here and there that is not satisfied and has received only half enough paint will soon dry out spotted; other places, where the wood is hard, an excess of paint which will dry with a heavy gloss. A good and satisfactory job of painting cannot be done over an uneven coat of priming. The priming coat should be applied with as much care as the finishing coat. Great care should be taken in keeping the paint of a uniform consistency. Where it is possible, prime the entire building at one time, as it is hard to prime a building in patches and obtain uniform results. In priming, use a full brush of paint to satisfy the soft spots, brush well and do not allow a surplus of paint to remain on the hard places. The priming coat should be as thoroughly and carefully brushed out as the finishing coat. To accomplish this, a good full stock brush must be used. Do not try to use a half-worn or cheap brush, as good results cannot be accomplished with poor tools. Use a medium full brush for painting under projections, cornices and under edges of the siding, being sure to fill all of the joints with paint, then use a full brush on the face of the siding and corner strips, thoroughly working the paint out under the brush so the pores of the wood will be filled. Be careful not to use a dry brush on any part of the work.
A building primed in the foregoing manner will leave an
