even surface over which to work and the second coat will go on smoothly and can be brushed out, thereby saving time and material.
Putty. Do not use cheap, ready-made putty. If it is not possible to secure putty that is known to be made from linseed oil and whiting, it is best for the painter to make the putty himself. This will not take much time and he can always be assured of overcoming some very annoying results. Cheap putty will peel from glass or after being traced with paint. Where used in grooves or over nail heads, it will turn yellow after paint has been applied. It is also apt to fall out, which is one of the most annoying things that can happen. A formula still in use by old practical painters is to take 5 pounds gilder's whiting and 1 pint raw linseed oil, the whiting gradually added to the oil and well kneaded in. As the mixture becomes too stiff to work by hand, pound it off with a mallet until all of the whiting is added and mixture is of a glazing consistency.
For a waterproof or harder-drying putty for use in floor seams or other exposed places, to the foregoing add one pound keg lead well worked in. If the keg lead is of a thin consistency, a little more whiting may be necessary to bring the putty to the proper consistency. This latter mix will be found to be more durable and produce more satisfactory results for glazing and all exterior puttying. Knife putty into all seams, cracks and nail holes; do not use the thumb in pushing putty into seams and cracks.
Middle Coat. Be sure the priming coat is hard dry. Do not have the second coat too oily, thus drying with too high a gloss, as this will cause the finishing coat to crack, peel and flatten. Do not paint over dirt, grease or mud splashed on the building from down spouts. Do not paint over frosts, dews or wet places. Do not paint while the plastering is drying out. Be sure the basement is not wet or damp. If such is the ease, the moisture is liable to go up through the house between the walls and siding and be
