building, as such will insure the surface from being scuffed or damaged by use.
Veranda and Porch Floors. A heavy coat of paint applied on the tongue and groove before laying will more than double the life of the floor through keeping out the water. Do not apply coats which are too oily. Brush well into the surface. Do not have an excess of paint or pigment on the surface. Remember the floors have to be walked on, consequently the paint must dry firm and hard. Thoroughly fill all cracks and crevices with paint, then brush out. Keep the work clean. Do not paint over mud, grease or plaster. Do not use old, fatty or skinny paint for floors. It will not make satisfactory work, will never dry hard and will soon scuff off. Do not paint floors immediately after frosts or heavy dews. Allow plenty of time for the surface to become dry and warm. Sufficient turpentine should be used in all coats to assist the paint in drying and hardening. More trouble is caused from floors not properly drying than from any other condition. The finishing coat can not dry solid if undercoats are spongy; neither will the paint wear well where the undercoats are not thoroughly hard. A finishing coat of elastic paint can be applied over a flat coat without causing trouble, but a flat or quick-drying paint applied over an oil coat will cause cracking or peeling. Do not flow paint on floors and expect successful work. Two coats will not make a passable job on a porch or veranda floor.
The Paint. For priming, the paint should be of a thin consistency, reduced with a liberal amount of turpentine so as to penetrate well into the surface. See that the priming coat is thoroughly dry before applying subsequent coats. Putty all seams, cracks and nail holes with putty which will dry hard. The second coat for floors over good solid priming should be mixed half flat so as to dry hard and firm. Enough paint should be left on the surface to fill and form a good protecting coat, but should not dry with a
