Where paint, enamel or varnish are retarded in their drying by weather conditions or other causes, the work can be assisted in drying and hardening by sandpapering or mossing off, killing the gloss and allowing it to be exposed to a free circulation of air. This will harden work in a few hours as much as if allowed to stand for a considerable length of time.
Cheap paint should not be used for inside work any more than on the exterior of the building, if good results are to be expected. It is a mistake to use cheap ochre for priming. The same paint, or something as good, should be used for priming or first coat as is used for the finishing coats or for building up the ground work for enameling, graining and like work.
Oil Paint in White. Where two coat oil paint work is specified, without sizing, the first coat should be reduced with half turpentine and half oil to a good consistency, then a half pint of good hard drying or enamel varnish added. This will dry hard and will not spot as badly on soft pine wood as a turpentine oil reduction. After it is hard dry, putty crevices and nail holes with good putty, one which will not turn yellow, or the puttying can be done before the priming coat is applied. Should there be holes that are not properly filled, they can be reputtied over the first or priming coat. Sandpaper or rub with fine steel wool to a smooth, even surface, dust off and apply a second coat mixed to a good, heavy consistency with half oil and half turpentine, or 1-3 good hard drying varnish, 1-3 oil and 1-3 turpentine. Either mix will dry with a good gloss and can be washed.
For three-coat work the primer should be mixed as before stated, the second coat mixed with three parts turpentine and one part oil or hard drying varnish. This will dry with an eggshell gloss. Sandpaper or rub with fine steel wool to a smooth, even coat and apply the finishing coat of medium consistency, mixed with half turpentine and half
