oil, or 1-3 each turpentine, oil and varnish. This should dry with a good gloss and can be scrubbed. This work, however, will turn yellow with age, as will enamel if applied over it.
Gloss Work in White. Satisfactory two-coat gloss work cannot be done on bare wood. If the work is not filled or sized, the primer should be mixed to a thin consistency with 7⁄8 turpentine and 1⁄8 hard drying or enamel varnish. The second coat should be of the same mixture but of heavier consistency. If for a size or filled surface, the first coat should be of the same consistency and mixture as for second coat over bare wood. This will dry flat. Sandpaper or rub with fine steel wool to a smooth, even coat.
If the work is to be finished in lead, use 1-3 of the second coat flat mixture and 2-3 hard drying or enamel varnish. If a white finish is desired, zinc in place of lead should be used. For zinc finish, prime with lead reduced as before stated. Second coat with zinc varnish reduced with turpentine. Sandpaper between coats and finish with 1-3 second-coat zinc mixture and 2-3 white or enamel varnish. Either of these finishes will dry with a good gloss and should not turn yellow or cheek.
Oil Paint in Tints. Reduce the priming coat with half turpentine and half oil. To one gallon of paint add a half-pint of good varnish. The paint should be of good consistency and applied smoothly and evenly. When hard dry, sandpaper, dust off and apply a coat mixed as before stated, only of a heavier consistency. This paint will dry with sufficient gloss to allow of washing.
For three-coat work the primer should be mixed as noted and the second coat mixed with three parts turpentine and one part oil. This will dry about flat and can be sandpapered smooth before applying the finishing coat which should be mixed with half turpentine and half oil. To a gallon of the mixture add a half-pint of good mixing var-
