If one thing more than another surprised me, it was the fact that almost without exception, all the family and the people gathered at the house of our host were afflicted with a distressing form of catarrh.
At such an altitude and in a clime so salubrious and bracing, high up in the mountains, with an atmosphere dry and pure, that either lung, nasal, or throat troubles should exist, afforded food for reflection.
Cosme, although sadly battered and bruised, managed to creep to the window, and look on at the result of the operations. On seeing what was going on, he muttered indistinctly: "Carmba!" (Good gracious!)—"Por Dios santo!" The painful experiences of his ride established a community of suffering between himself and the damsels, which gave intense pathos to his words.
About fifty persons had assembled in the house, or hung about the windows. I was so intensely absorbed in studying the strange dark faces and party-colored costumes that it was some time before it dawned upon me that I was, if possible, an object of still greater interest to them than they to me. I spoke to one or two of the women, and reassured by my friendly tones, they approached me. Soon others followed, when I became the center of an extended group—every one regarding me with almost unappeasable curiosity.
Everything about me, to the most trifling detail, filled them with childish astonishment. As their shyness vanished, they became as familiar as children. They toyed with the banged hair on my forehead, saying in amused tones: "Que bonitas estan!" "Que chulas!" ("How pretty they are!")
They took off my hat gently, and tried it on, one after another. They felt the texture of my dress—a very simple, navy blue nun's veiling—evidently regarding it as something unapproachably splendid. Then my fan caught their attention. It was the color of the dress, and strewn with red roses. They held it close to the dress, then to the hat, comparing them, and the fact that all three corresponded in color, struck them immediately as decidedly the proper thing. "She has good taste!" they said approvingly to one another,—"Yes, very good taste!—very good manners!—a very fine lady!"
