CONTExVTS. XV bella — Chapel of San Juan de Dios — The Albaycin — View or the Vega — The Generalife — The Alhambra— Torra de la Vela— The Walls and Towers— A Visit to Old Mateo— The Court of the Fish-pond — The Halls of the Alhambra — Character of the Architec- ture — Hall cf the Abencerrages— Hall of the Two Sisters — The Moorish Dynasty m Spain 414 CHAPTER XXXVI. THE BRIDLE-ROADS OP ANDALUSIA. Chaage of Weather — ^Napoleon and his Horses — Departure from Granada — My Guide, Jos6 Garcia — His Domestic Troubles — The Tragedy of the Umbrella — The Vow against Aguardiente— Crossing the Vega — ^The Sierra Nevada — The Baths of Alhama — " Woe is Me, Alhama !"— The Valley of the River Velez— Velez Malaga— The Coast Road— The Fisherman and his Donkey — Malaga — Summer Scenery — The Story of Don Pedro, without Fear and without Care — The Field of Monda — A Lonely Venta . . 48T CHAPTER XXXVII. THE MOUNTAINS OP RONDA. Orange Valleys — Climbing the Mountains — Jos6's Hospitality — El Burgo^The Gate of the Wind— The Cliff and Cascades of Ronda— The Mountain Region — Traces of the Moors — Haunts of Robbers — A Stormy Ride — The Inn at Gaucin — Bad News — A Boyish Auxiliary — Descent from the Mountains — The Ford of the Ouadfaro— Our Fears Relieved — The Cork Woods — Ride from San Roque to Gibraltar — Parting witl» Jo36 — Travelling in Spain — Conclusion ........ 489
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