Page:Narrative of a Voyage around the World - 1843.djvu/58

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12
DEPARTURE FROM CHAGRES.
[1837.

liminary nap, the last we expected on this side of Panama. In this, however, we were disappointed, as the whole village assembled nearly beneath our windows, and maintained a constant succession of native songs and dancing, accompanied by very discordant music, until dawn, when they dispersed, and we embarked, in all seven persons — the lieutenant of the Madagascar, the purser, mate, and my steward, of the Sulphur, assistant-surgeon, and lieutenant of the Nimrod, and myself.

We quitted the bank, and notwithstanding our ill-founded suspicions, very soon enjoyed a most comfortable nap under our awning, formed by a thatch of palm leaves, covered finally by a painted canvass.

Our crew consisted of the padron and five rowers, their rate of pay on these occasions being five reals each, or two shillings and sixpence per diem. Although the cost of this canoe up was eighty-five dollars, the return charge, waiting twenty-four hours, was only ten. Any delay beyond twenty-four hours entails a charge of five reals a day per man.

Our journey commenced at rather a slow rate. The men, perhaps, had not lately worked together, or, possibly, were fatigued by their dancing exertions of the previous night. They were inclined, I thought, to exhibit an independence; in fact, they would move only at their own convenience; and of this we shortly had a specimen. On our arrival at Gatun, about eleven miles from Chagres, we stopped to allow the crew time to dine. Unfortunately their