CHAPTER 23
COLLARS, CUFFS AND BELTS
Unlined Collars—Lined Collars—Removable Collars—The High Collar—Collars and Cuffs for Coats, Suits and Capes—Bottom of Dress Sleeve—Unlined Cuff—Lined Cuff—Removable Cuff —Belts—Casings
Ill. 221. Baste a Narrow Strip of Bias Material Along the Edge of the Collar
TO SEW ON AN UNLINED COLLAR baste the collar to the neck with the under side of the collar against the right side of the garment. If the garment is of a material that is not transparent, baste a narrow bias strip of material along the edge of the collar with the edges even. Stitch the seam and clip it at intervals so that it will not draw the neck. (Ill. 221.)
Turn under the edge of the facing and if the collar extends all around the neck, hem the facing to the garment covering the seam. If the collar does not extend all around the neck edge as in Illustration 221, turn under the inner edge of the facing on that part of the neck which is beyond the collar. Stretch it to fit the neck and stitch it close to the fold but not to the garment. The facing should simply be pressed. It lies flat against the garment without being stitched and as there is no strain on it it will stay in place. (Ill. 221.)
Ill. 222. Seam Binding May Be Used in Place of a Facing
Seam binding may be used instead of a facing. It should be sewed on flat as in Illustration 222. It should be put on so that the lower edge is not tight on the garment, easing the upper edge in wherever it is necessary to make it lie flat. (Ill. 222.)
If the garment is of sheer material, the collar may be sewed on with machine hemstitching (Chapter 25, page 118), with a narrow rolled hem or a flat fell seam (Chapter 17, page 87) or the seam may be trimmed off to ¼ inch width and finely overcast. The machine hemstitching is the daintiest finish.
TO MAKE AND SEW ON A LINED COLLAR turn under the seam allowance along the outer edge of the collar and sew on the trimming or stitch it in any way desired before the collar is lined. Turn under the outer edge of the collar lining ¼ of an inch more than the collar itself and baste it to the wrong side of the collar with the edge of the lining about ⅛ of an inch within the edge of the collar, taking care not to stretch it or pull the edges. (Ill. 223 on next page.)
Baste the lining to the collar a little more than an inch from the neck edge. Baste the collar to the neck edge of the garment with the right side of the collar to the wrong side of the garment and with the seam toward the outside of the garment. Stitch the seam. Baste the lining neck edge over the seam and hem it down neatly by hand. (Ill. 223.)
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