Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/114

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110
THE NEW DRESSMAKER
The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0223.png

Ill. 223. Basting the Lining to the Collar

TO FINISH A REMOVABLE COLLAR. A removable collar for the open neck of a garment not made of sheer material is usually finished with a bias binding about ½ an inch wide finished. Sew one long edge of the binding to the neck edge of the collar (Ill. 224), turn in the other long edge of the seam allowance and baste it over the first sewing. (Ill. 224.) Then stitch or hem it by hand as shown in Illustration 224.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0224.pngIll. 224. Finishing a Removable Collar When the removable collar is for a waist of sheer material it is best to finish the neck edge of the garment and collar with picot edging (Chapter 25, page 119) or with a narrow rolled hem. (Chapter 27, page 133.)

For the rolled hem a thread should be run in the neck edge of the collar before rolling it, to keep the size and prevent stretching while rolling the hem and working on it, for the edge is bias.

STANDING COLLAR. If the collar is to be of woolen or silk like the gown, it should be lined with a piece of soft, light silk. Turn over all the edges of the collar and baste. Slip-stitch the lower edge to the neck.

If closed at the left side, the entire collar, except the small portion at the back, is sewed to the neck. The neck of the lining at the left side, which is free, is bound with seam-binding. For a waist with a front closing, bind the left side of the neck with seam-binding, pin the collar around the right side, with the center of collar at the front edge of the right front, and the right end of collar at the center-back seam. (Ill. 225.) The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0225.pngIll. 225. The Standing Collar