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COLLARS, CUFFS AND BELTS

Sew the collar to the neck, being careful not to catch the stitches through the outside material. Sew three hooks on the left end of the collar on the inner side (Ill. 225) and one to its lower edge about half-way between the center front and back.

Cut the facing (preferably of silk) the same shape as the collar. Turn in the edges of the facing and hem it to the collar on the left side, and to the neck of the right side of the waist. Work three buttonhole loops at the right of the collar, and one in the left side of the waist at the neck. The collar and facing are shown in Illustration 225.

COLLARS AND CUFFS FOR COATS AND SUITS AND CAPES. Instructions for making these collars and cuffs are handled in the chapter on the making of these garments. (Chapter 12.)

THE BOTTOM OF A DRESS SLEEVE should be finished with a hem or bias facing or seam-binding sewed on flat like a facing, or with a trimming suitable to the garment.

AN UNLINED CUFF is sewed on a dress sleeve in the same way as an unlined collar. (Ills. 221 and 222.)

A LINED CUFF WHICH TURNS BACK is sewed on in the same way as a lined collar. (Ill. 223.)

A REMOVABLE CUFF is finished in the same way as a removable collar. (Ill. 224.)

THE CUFFS FOR A MANNISH SHIRT-WAIST. The making and sewing on of a mannish shirt-waist cuff will be found in the chapter on Shirt-waists. (Chapter 8.)

A BELT may be cut double, the edges turned in toward each other, basted and stitched.

It may be cut in two portions, an outer portion and an under portion or lining, the edges turned in toward each other, basted and stitched.

It may be cut in two portions, an outer portion and an under portion, which may be laid with the right sides face to face and stitched together on three sides. It is then turned right side out and the open edges slip-stitched together.

A CASING is used for a garment that must be comfortable at the waistline, knees, ankles, etc. In some instances the casing is formed by a hem stitched on both turned edges.

In other cases a casing is applied on either the right or wrong side of the garment.

An elastic or drawstring is drawn through the casing to adjust the garment as desired.

A casing is a straight piece of material with its edges turned under as shown in Illustration 226. The width of the casing depends on the character of the garment and where it is used. For example, you would require a wider casing at the waistline of mohair serge bloomers than at the waistline of a very fine batiste blouse. The casing can be made of the same material as the garment if it is suitable. In the case of mohair serge or any other material that would make a clumsy casing you can use a piece of strong silk or lining material for the casing.

The casing is sewed flat to the garment at both edges either by hemming it (Ill. 226) or stitching it by machine.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0226.pngIll. 226. Sewing on a Casing

A BELT CASING is a double belt a little larger than the waist size. The ends are left open and an elastic or tape is run through the casing to regulate the fulness around the waist. This belt casing is usually stitched where the belt joins the blouse and again just above the folded lower edge of the casing.