Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/135

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131
BIAS TRIMMINGS

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0296.pngIll. 296. Cord Piping the edge the same way as a plain piping.(Ill. 298.)

PIPING is a finish which is much used in dressmaking. It is easy to use and gives an opportunity for attractive color combinations. It can be applied along the edge or included in a seam.

Cut bias strips an inch and a quarter wide, if the material to be used for the piping is firm, like taffeta, etc. If a loosely woven material is used, the strips should be a trifle wider. Join all the strips, as described on page 15, and press the seams open. Then fold the strip over at the center line and baste it flat, being careful not to let it become twisted.

Next prepare the edge of the material to which the piping is to be applied. If desired, cut a lining three-eighths of an inch narrower than the pattern or the piece to be lined. Baste this lining into position as shown in Illustration 297.

If the edge forms a fancy outline, as illustrated here, turn the edges over evenly all around, clipping at the corners and folding in at the points where necessary. (Ill. 298.) Then run a basting-thread an even width (about three-eighths of an inch) around the edge to serve as a guide. Next baste on the piping, following this line closely. Be careful

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0297.pngIll. 297. Lining Basted to Material The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0298.pngIll. 298. Under Side Showing Piping Clipped at Corners The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0299.pngIll. 299. Right Side of Completed Piping

to avoid any scantiness at the points or bulginess at the corners, Illustration 299 shows the right side of a pointed edge neatly piped.

BIAS BINDINGS make attractive finishes either in same or contrasting material or color. Cut bias strips of material twice the width of the finished binding plus ⅜ of an inch for a seam on each edge.

Join all the strips (Ill. 15, page 15), press the seams open. Sew the binding on the right side of the garment and then turn it to the wrong side. Hem it by hand or machine to the first line of sewing. Be careful not to let the bias strips twist.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0300.pngIll. 300. The Rolled Hem Bias bindings, instead of being turned in and blind-stitched on the wrong side, can be turned in on the right side and held down by running stitches, about three-eighths of an inch long, worked in embroidery silk, wool or embroidery cotton of a contrasting color.

A ROLLED HEM makes a very pretty finish for bias or straight trimming bands. It can only be used on a straight edge and can not be used on a curved edge.

An allowance of one and a half inches will have to be made on the edge for this hem. Fold the edge over on the right side and sew one-quarter of an inch from the fold (Ill. 300). Then turn under the raw edge one-quarter of an inch and hem it over the stitches on the wrong side (Ill. 300). The hem must look round like a cord when finished—not flat (Ill. 300).