Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/134

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130
THE NEW DRESS MAKER

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0291.pngIll. 291. Stitched Miliners' Fold If the material is very sheer, it is a good plan to have a small strip of paper, not quite the width of the fold, to slip along within the fold as the work progresses. If pressing is necessary, use only a warm iron.

Crêpe folds are cut on the straight of the goods, so that the crinkles will run diagonally.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0292.pngIll. 292. Making Tailors' Strap TAILORS' STRAPS are folded bands used to strap seams, or as an ornamental trimming on tailored garments. They may be cut on the bias if of velvet or taffeta; crosswise if of woolen; lengthwise if of cotton materials. Fold the strip at the center and catch the raw edges together with loose whip-stitches as shown in Illustration 292. Spread out the fold and press it well. Baste into position on the garment and stitch by machine on both edges.

CORDING is a very useful trimming and is made with bias strips and Germantown or eider-down wool. The bias strips should be about an inch and a quarter wide. Fold the strips lengthwise through the center and run a seam a quarter of an inch from the fold edge. With the strips still wrong side out, slip the ends of several strands of Germantown or eider-down wool far enough into one end of the tube-like covering so that you can sew them securely to it. Then with the loop end of a wire hairpin push the wool farther and farther into the covering, at the same time turning the covering right side out. (Ill. 293.) The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0293.pngIll. 293. Pushing the Wool Through

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0294.pngIll. 294. Cord Motif When cording is used to form a motif, stamp the motif on ordinary wrapping-paper. The cordings are first basted in place on the design with the seam uppermost so that the right side of the motif will be next the paper. They are then sewed together at the points of intersection and contact. (Ill. 294.)

A CORDED TUCK is shown in Illustration 295. The illustration shows the cord being put into the tuck for trimming. Mark the trimming line for the cord with colored thread. Hold the cord underneath with the left hand and enclose it in a tuck, sewing it with fine, even running stitches as close to the cord as possible. (Ill. 295.) The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0295.pngIll. 295. Corded Tuck

CORD PIPING is shown in Illustration 296. A bias strip of material is used for the pipings. The cord is run in the same way as for tuck cording and the piping is applied to