CHAPTER 32
PRESSING
Irons—Ironing Board—Sleeve Board—Tailors' Cushion—Steaming—Pressing Plaits
GOOD PRESSING is a very important part of dressmaking and tailoring. Special boards and tailors' cushions may be made at home or bought from any dressmakers' supply house.
IRONS. You should have either an electric iron and two ordinary irons, or else three ordinary irons. The two extra irons are used to hold the third in an inverted position in steaming velvet. An eight-pound smoothing-iron is the most satisfactory type for pressing.
Ill. 363. The Sleeve-board
IRONING-BOARD. Skirts and coats can be pressed on your long laundry ironing-board or on your sewing-table. Seams should be pressed over the curved edge of an ironing-board so that the seam edges will not be marked on the garment.
A SLEEVE-BOARD which can be used for sleeves and short seams can be made from a board two or three feet long, and tapering from five or six inches in width at one end to three inches at the other. (Ill. 363.) The ends and edges should be rounded and the board should have an inner covering of flannel or a similar wool material, and an outer cover of smooth cotton cloth. (Ill. 363.)
Ill. 364. The Tailors' Cushion
A TAILORS' CUSHION is used for pressing darts and curved seams. (Ill. 364.) It is ham shaped and is stuffed tightly with cotton rags. Cut two pieces, eighteen by fourteen inches, making them narrower at one end. (Ill. 364.) Round off all the edges. Stitch the seam with a close stitch. Seams should be pressed over the tailors' cushion so that the seam edges will not be marked on the garment.
In opening seams, dampen the seam, if the material will permit it, and press slowly, bearing down heavily on the iron. Very little dampness should be used on cashmere, as it flattens the twill and spoils the texture. Little or no dampness should be used on silk. A cloth, well wrung out of water, may be used on these materials, and their seams may be dampened slightly.
Velvet, velours and duvetyn must not be pressed, but should be steamed so as not to injure the nap.
To steam velvet, etc., heat an iron and place it face up between two cold irons arranged so as to hold the hot iron firmly. (Ill. 365.) Lay a damp piece of muslin over the face of the iron and draw the velvet over the muslin. The steam will have the effect of pressing the velvet without hurting the pile. Seams can be opened in this way, and this method
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