Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/166

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162
THE NEW DRESSMAKER

plenty of pins in pinning the pattern on the material and cut with sharp dressmaking shears, following the edge of the pattern exactly.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0367.pngIll. 367. Inside View of Pocket with Buttonhole Fly Mark all the working perforations with tailors' tacks (Chapter 16, page 85) and either mark the notches with two or three stitches in basting-cotton or clip them, making them no deeper than is necessary to see them distinctly.

PUTTING THE GARMENT TOGETHER—Follow the Deltor or the Illustrated Instructions for putting the pieces of the garment together, putting in the pockets wherever there are any. (Chapter 22, page 104.)

TROUSERS—The Fly. Baste a facing of lining material, cut from the fly-piece pattern, to the outside of the front edge of the left-front portion. Stitch a narrow seam. Turn the facing to the wrong side, and baste it flat, with the cloth at the seam edge entirely covering the lining.

Now lay together, face to face, two fly pieces, one of cloth and one of lining, and stitch a seam on the front edge. Turn it to the right side, baste flat and press.

It is more convenient to make the buttonholes in the fly now than after it is stitched in place. They are worked from the cloth side, the first one coming just below the waistband. Then baste the fly into position, its edge a trifle back of the edge on the left front of the trousers. Stitch one-quarter inch back of the buttonholes, through the four thicknesses of goods, down from the waistband, ending in a curved line on the lower edge. (Ill. 367.) Tack the fly between the buttonholes to the facing. Overcast the raw edges on the inside.

The underlapping fly piece for the buttons on the right front of the trousers should be faced with lining. The cloth piece is then basted and stitched to the edge of the right front of the trousers. This seam is then pressed open. Turn under the lining, clipping the edge to make it lie flat, and baste it to the cloth seam. From the right side stitch neatly an even line down close to the bastings and across the free edge at the bottom.

Small trouser buttons are sowed on in position corresponding to the buttonholes on the opposite fly.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0368.pngIll. 368. Side Pocket For the Smaller Boy, when buttons and buttonholes are impracticable, the small facing provided for in the pattern is attached to the right side of both of the fronts, stitched and turned to the inside. (Ill. 369, page 163.) The front seam is then closed from the facing to the waistline.

The side pockets should be put in next.

SIDE POCKETS OF TROUSERS are usually made in a seam. Cut a square pieces of silesia or stout lining material the size desired, and, doubling it over, notch the edges to indicate the pocket opening. Make corresponding notches in the seam edges of the trousers. Face the back edge of the pocket on both the right and wrong sides with bias facings of the cloth one inch and a quarter wide and long enough to extend from the top of the pocket to an inch below the notch in the opening. (Ill. 368.) Lay the front edge of the pocket edge to edge with the front edge of the trousers on their wrong side and baste it to them. In the same seam baste a bias