Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/167

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163
BOYS' AND MEN'S CLOTHES

facing of the cloth to the front of the trousers on the right side. This facing should be the same length and width as the facings on the back edge of the pocket. Stitch the pocket, trousers and facing together in a narrow seam. Turn the facing over on to the pocket and run a row of stitching close to the fold to hold it in place. Turn under the back edge of the facing and stitch it to the pocket. Trim off the lower corners of the pocket (Ill. 368), and crease the edge for a seam toward the inside. The seam of the pocket may then be closed. Baste it first, and close it with one stitching. The back edge of the pocket is caught to the front with bar stay-tacks. The upper edges are held by the waistband. The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0369.pngIll. 369. Inside View of Trousers Having No Fly

TROUSERS HAVING NO FLY CLOSING have the waistband divided into a front and back waistband, leaving an opening at each side of the trousers. In this case the extension on the side of the back pieces of the trousers is faced, thus forming the underlap for the opening. The loose edge of the pocket piece is then faced on both sides with the cloth, and two rows of stitching, a quarter of an inch apart close to the edge, give it a firm finish. Now the upper edges of the pocket are basted to the upper edge of the trousers front. (Ill. 369.)

Make a bar, overcast or buttonholed, between the two rows of stitching, catching through the cloth, and both sides of the pocket at the top and at the bottom of the opening.

The pocket may now be closed. Round off one or both of the corners, and, turning in the seam with the raw edges toward the inside of the pocket, stitch securely.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0370.pngIll. 370. Outside View of Fly and Pocket THE OUTSIDE SEAM of the trousers is closed next. In knickerbockers it is stitched in a seam all the way down. The lower edge of the leg is gathered in a casing with an elastic. In trousers finished with a band the extension allowed at the lower part for an opening at the side is turned under for a facing on the upper side, and faced and used as an extension on the under side. The band can be fastened with a buckle or with a button and buttonhole. After stitching the seam, turn the raw edges toward the front. From the outside, run a line of stitching one-eighth of an inch from the seam.

Now stitch and press open the inside seam of each leg. The two leg portions may then be joined, beginning the seam down the back at the waist, and