Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/29

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25
ALTERING WAIST PATTERNS

can be made in the actual waist lining and waist. You cut your waist or lining in the ordinary way by your pattern and put it together according to the Illustrated Instructions. Try it on, pinning the fronts together. (Ill. 41.) You will find that it draws across the chest and needs to be taken up at the shoulder seams at the neck as much as necessary to remove these wrinkles, letting this alteration slope toward the shoulders. (Ill. 42.) Tapering in the shoulder at the neck will make the neck size too small. Slash the neck edge of the lining at intervals until it feels comfortable. (Ill. 42.)

Take off the lining and baste the shoulder seam and trim off the neck edge on a line with the slashes. Try the lining on again to be sure the alteration is right before stitching the shoulder seams. If there are crosswise wrinkles at the back, the back lining can be altered in the same way. The same alteration that is made in the lining should be made in the outside waist.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0043.jpg

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0044.jpg

Ill. 43. Sloping Shoulders
Make the Lining Wrinkle
from Shoulder to Armhole
Ill. 44. The Lining Must
be Lifted on the
Shoulder

ALTERING A WAIST TO FIT SLOPING SHOULDERS. Sloping shoulders make the diagonal wrinkle from the neck to the armhole. (Ill. 43.) This alteration, too, can be made in the lining and the waist without altering the pattern. Make up your lining in the usual way and put it on, pinning carefully at the center front. In Illustration 43 the shoulders are very sloping, and in your case the wrinkle cannot be as pronounced. The wrinkle is due to the fact that the shoulders are not high enough to take up the full size of the pattern. The extra size must be taken up on the shoulder seams. Take in the shoulders as little as possible at the neck and as much as necessary toward the arm. (Ill. 44.)

Taking in the shoulder seams will decrease the size of the armhole and make it bind. Slash the armhole a little until it feels just right. Do not slash it too much or your armhole will be too large. (Ill. 44.)

Ill. 45. If the Bust is Too
Full it Pulls Up the Lining
 
The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0045.jpg

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0046.jpg

  Ill. 46. The Remdy is to
Give the Lining More Size
Across the Bust

Take off your lining, baste the shoulder seams and cut out the armhole on a line with slashes. Try the lining on again to be sure that it is comfortable and then stitch the shoulder seams.

Diagonal wrinkles in the back of the lining may be handled in the same way. The same alteration that is made in the lining should be made in the outside waist.

ADAPTING PATTERNS TO A FIGURE WITH AN UNUSUALLY LARGE BUST. This is the case, not necessarily of a large figure, but of a figure in which the bust is