CHAPTER 4
ALTERING WAIST PATTERNS FOR FIGURES THAT VARY FROM THE AVERAGE
For a Figure Broader at the Back than at the Front, for Square Shoulders, for Sloping Shoulders, for a Full Bust, for a Small Bust, for Round Shoulders, for an Over Erect Figure
Ill. 40. For a Figure Broad at the Back in Proportion to the Front
ALTERING A PATTERN FOR A FIGURE BROAD IN BACK IN PROPORTION TO THE FRONT. Several women may have exactly the same bust measure but the bust size may be distributed in different ways. The first type of figure to be considered in this chapter is the figure that is broad across the back in proportion to the chest measure. Usually this type of women is hollow-chested. If her back is broader than the average, she has discovered it in making her own clothes.
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| Ill. 41. If a Woman Has Square Shoulders the Lining Will Wrinkle Across the Chest |
Ill. 42. The Alteration is Made at the Shoulder Seam |
The alteration for this type of figure is very simple. Slash the back pattern from the shoulder to the bottom on a line with the back edge and separate the pieces as much as is necessary to fit the figure. (Ill. 40.) This will make the shoulder of the back longer than the shoulder of the front. (Ill. 40.)
Half of this difference in width should be sloped off the armhole edge of the back. (Ill. 40.) Half the difference should be filled in at the armhole edge of the front, letting the allowance slope to nothing at the notches. (Ill. 40.) The dotted line in Illustration 40 shows you where to fill in and where to slope off.
ALTERING WAIST LININGS AND WAISTS TO FIT SQUARE OR SLOPING SHOULDERS. Illustration 41 shows how a waist lining will draw across the chest on a square-shouldered figure. The alteration is so simple that it doesn't have to be made in the pattern but
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