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Patterns—Cutting—Lining Materials—Making the Lining—Altering the Lining—The Lining Seams—Lining Closing—Inside Belt—Finishing Edges of Lining — Putting Together Outside Dress Waist—Finishing Outside Dress Waist—Collar—Collarless Neck—Sleeves—Armhole—Waistline of Dress Waist

PATTERNS. Purchase dress waists, shirt-waists and blouse patterns by the bust measure. (Chapter 2 on Butterick Patterns, page 10—Correct Way to Take the Bust Measure.) The right size is very important for it does away with unnecessary fitting and altering.

A woman may measure exactly thirty-six inches in the bust and yet be longer or shorter waisted than the pattern, or have a longer or shorter arm. Before cutting your material compare the lengths of the waist and sleeve with the corresponding lengths of the person for whom the waist, etc., is being made. (Chapter 3, pages 19–21). Sometimes it is difficult to get the length of the pattern itself when a neck is open and the sleeve is kimono. Butterick patterns are made the correct length for a figure measuring about 15½ inches from the normal collar seam at the back of the neck to the normal waistline at the center back. If a pattern is long or short waisted for you, or long or short sleeved, alter it according to instructions given in Chapter 3, pages 19, 20 and 21.

If your figure is unusual in any way, large or small in the bust, round-shouldered, etc., the pattern should be altered according to instructions given in Chapter 4. If it is necessary to make any alterations in the pattern it is best to make them in the lining first, if the pattern has a lining. The same alterations can then be made in the outside.

CUTTING. Before cutting your material read Chapter 6 on Materials, Sponging, Steaming, Cutting, etc.

LINING MATERIALS. China silk, silk mull and the better grades of percaline are the best lining materials in silk and wool.

Brussels net may be used in silk or cotton materials.

Lawn may be used for a lining in the heavier cottons.

Brussels net and Georgette crêpe are the linings used for lace, chiffons, Georgette, etc.

Mousseline de sole is also used for the lining of an evening dress.

In dress waists, etc., where it does not show, the lining should be of white or flesh color. Under a transparent waist the lining should be the same color as the skirt or drop skirt, otherwise there will be a sharp break in color between the waist and skirt.

Lay the pattern on the material following the layout for your size pattern and width of material in the Deltor Layouts. If there is no Deltor in your pattern follow the instructions given in the pattern for cutting.

Some dressmakers advocate cutting cotton linings crosswise of the material although the material does not cut economically that way. The advantage is that material cut crosswise will give very little, if at all, and the lining may be further strengthened by making it double at points where the greatest strain will come.

Mark all the perforations with tailors' tacks. (Chapter 16, page 8.5.)

Mark all the notches with contrasting colored basting thread, taking two or three stitches to mark each notch. Or instead of marking the notches you can clip them, cutting them sufficiently deep so that you can see them easily, but no deeper than is absolutely necessary.