Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/47

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43
BLOUSES AND SHIRT-WAISTS

the joining to show through to the outside, or if part of the collar joining rolls to the out-side and shows, the daintiest effect is given by machine hemstitching the seam or by using Valenciennes or Cluny lace seaming in the joining. If the collar joining does not roll to the outside, the joining can be made with a narrow flat fell seam. (Chapter 17, page 87.)

A single or double collar should never be joined to the neck of a transparent blouse with a facing, for it makes a thick seam which will show on the outside.

The outside of a double collar should be sewed to the neck edge of the blouse. The edge of the inside collar or collar lining should be turned in and felled over the sewing.

The single collar can be put on with machine hemstitching or seaming.

It is advisable to avoid a seam in the edge of either single or double collars in a transparent material, if possible. In the case of a single collar a hem is the best finish for the outside edge when it is plain.

THE COLLARLESS NECK. Instructions for finishing the collarless neck are given in Chapter 7, page 41.

THE CUFFS. When the design is suitable the making and finishing of the cuff may match the making and finishing of the collar. The joining of the cuff to the sleeve may match the finishing of the shoulder and armhole seams when the seam finish is suitable. The same general principles are applied to the cuff as to the collar, and are simply adapted to suit the design of the cuff.

The cuffs may be closed with buttons and buttonholes, or with buttons and loops. (Chapter 24, page 114.) Or the buttons may be simply ornamental and the closing made underneath with hooks and eyes or tiny snap fasteners. (Chapter 24, page 116.)

THE CLOSING OF THE BLOUSE depends on the degree of softness and dressiness that you want to give to the blouse. The closing of the waistline is always made secure with a hook and eye, or button and loop. (Chapter 24, page 114.) Above, snap fasteners are sometimes used (Chapter 24, page 116), or sometimes a waist is fastened with buttons and buttonholes, or sometimes buttons and loops. But quite often when the blouse laps a great deal at the waistline, and is soft and full, the only closing above it is made by a fancy pin at the open neck.

For the back-closing blouse snap fasteners are not very secure. It is better to use small buttons and buttonholes.

PLAITINGS OR FRILLS are usually made of a single thickness of the material and may be finished with a picoted edge, a narrow hem or Valenciennes lace, net or point d'esprit footing. If a hem is used it should be machine hemstitched, or hand hemstitched (Chapter 2.5), or hand hemmed (Chapter 18) or machine stitched.

Plaitings are very pretty in Georgette, crêpe de Chine, cotton voile, handkerchief linen and batiste. Organdy plaitings are very dainty on cotton voile, and net plaitings are often used on handkerchief linen and crêpe de Chine.

WHEN A BLOUSE EXTENDS BELOW THE WAISTLINE and is to be worn inside the skirt, it is usually finished at the waistline with a casing through which an elastic or drawstring is run to regulate the size. (Chapter 23, page 111.) The lower edge is finished with a narrow hem.

If the blouse is worn outside the skirt the finish of the lower part depends on the style and material of the blouse.

A BLOUSE THAT COMES JUST TO THE WAISTLINE is usually finished with a belt casing. (Chapter 23, page 111.)

SHIRT-WAISTS

SHIRT-WAISTS are usually given a more mannish effect in their making and finishing than a blouse-waist.

MATERIALS. Tub silks and satins, radium silks, cotton, silk or wool shirtings, the heavier qualities of crêpe de Chine, pongee, dimity, madras and linen are the best materials to use for shirt-waists.