Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/48

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THE NEW DRESSMAKER

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0074.jpgIll. 74. The Box-Plait Closing THE SEAMS may be finished as French seams or as flat stitched seams, or lapped seams, (Chapter 17, pages 86 and 87.)

THE FRONT CLOSING. Shirt-waists are finished with a box plait or coat closing. The making of the box-plait closing on the right front is shown in Illustration 74 and the finished box plait in Illustration 75. A hem is turned and the raw edge included in the fold of the hem. (Ill. 74.)

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0075.jpgIll. 75. The Finished Box Plait

THE COAT CLOSING is made by turning both hems on the wrong side, basting and stitching them. (Ill. 76.)

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0076.jpgIll. 76. Finished Effect of Coat Closing

A BLIND CLOSING. If the waist is to have a blind closing, a fly must be applied to the closing edge. The fly should be made double, folded lengthwise through the center, and a seam turned in at each edge. The fold edges are basted together and then sewed in position. (Ill. 77.)

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0077.jpgIll. 77. The Blind Closing

THE GIBSON TUCK in a waist necessitates joining the shoulder seam first before basting in the tuck. This leaves the tuck free across the shoulder seam (Ill. 78), and in basting in the sleeves the tucks can simply be turned toward the neck out of the way as illustrated.

A BACK YOKE. A back yoke may be applied to the waist as shown in Illustration 79.

THE NECKBAND. Shirt-waists are sometimes made with a band finishing