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The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0078.jpgIll. 78. Basting in a Gibson Tuck the neck of the waist and worn with separate linen collars.

The neck requires care. It should not be trimmed out too much and the neckband should fit the neck closely, though not too tightly, or it will be difficult to adjust the collar.

An interlining should be used in the neckband. In most cases it should be of a material about the same weight as the waist material. The material of the waist can often be used for an interlining. In wash materials and flannel a soft cambric makes a good interlining.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0079.jpgIll. 79. Method of Applying Yoke Cut two sections by the collar-band pattern and also one interlining. Baste the interlining to the wrong side of one of the collar sections. Place the two collar sections together with the right sides face to face. Baste an even three-eight-inch seam at the top and ends, turn the band right side out and crease and baste the edges flat. Baste the inside section of the band to the neck of the waist with the seam on the right side. Turn the seam up, turn in the remaining edge of the band, fully covering the seam and stitch the outside, continuing this stitching all around the band.

FINISHING THE SLASH IN THE SLEEVE. For the slash in the sleeve sew the underlap piece to the back edge of the slash with the seam toward the right side. Crease the seam on the lap, turn the lap; baste down, entirely covering the joining, and stitch. Join the overlap piece to the front edge of the slash in the same manner. (Ill. 80.) Adjust the overlap so that it will conceal the underlap and baste it in place. Stitch all around the overlap, following the shape of the point. At the top of the opening the stitching should cross the lap and catch through the underlap, securely holding the opening in correct position, as shown in Illustrations 80 and 82.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0080.jpgIll. 80. Method of Applying Laps to Sleeves

A CONTINUOUS LAP is often used to finish the slash at the cuff opening. This lap is made by sewing a straight strip of the material continuously along both edges of the slashed opening, the strip of material being the same width all its length. (Ill. 81.) The other side is turned over and hemmed by hand or machine-stitched, to cover the first seam. This lap is shown in Illustration 81. When the lower edge of the sleeve is gathered this lap is turned under at the front or overlapping edge of the opening and extends on the other side to form an underlap. (Ill. 84.)

MAKING AND FINISHING THE CUFF. There are two sections for each cuff.

An interlining may be used in a cuff or not, depending on the