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The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0081.pngIll. 81. Method of Applying Continuous Lap degree of mannish effect desired in the waist. The interlining gives a cuff a more mannish look. It should be of a material about the same weight as the waist material, and is used to give a little more body to the cuff, but not to stiffen it. In many cases the material of the waist could be used for an interlining. In wash materials a soft cambric makes a good interlining.

If an interlining is used baste it to the wrong side of one of the cuff sections. Then baste the second cuff section to the first with the right sides facing each other, stitching along the two ends and lower edge. Trim off the seam at the corners and

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0082.pngIll. 82. Finish for Link-Button Closing

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0083.pngIll. 83. Finish for Lap Closing

turn the cuff right side out, making sure that the corners are as neat as possible. Baste along the seamed edges so that the cuff will be easy to handle in sewing it to the sleeve.

Baste the upper edge of the outside and interlining to the sleeve and overlap, but not to the underlap in a link cuff (Ill. 82), and to the sleeve, overlap and underlap in a lapped cuff. (Ill. 83.) Then stitch, pushing the sleeve fulness well toward the end of the cuff. Turn the seam down and baste. Make a narrow turning on the inside of the cuff and baste in position, covering the seam. Stitch around all the edges of the cuff from the outside. For convenience in handling it is better to turn the sleeve wrong side out before making this stitching.

In sewing in the sleeves hold the sleeve toward you so that the ease or fulness can be handled easily in basting. The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0084.pngIll. 84. Continuous Lap and Cuff

THE BOTTOM OF THE SHIRT-WAIST. The bottom of the waist is finished with a narrow hem.

THE BUTTONHOLES. The buttonholes in the box plait or coat closing are worked up and down through the center with a bar tack at each end. (Page 112, Ill. 228.) In the neckband they are worked lengthwise. The button-hole at the center back is worked one-quarter of an inch above the stitching and has a bar tack at each end. Those at the ends of the band are worked a corresponding distance above the stitching, but with a round front end above the center of the box plaits. (Page 113, Ill. 229.) The button-holes in the cuff are cut one-half inch in from the edge and about in the middle of the cuff. They are worked with one round end and one bar tack.

THE DETACHED COLLAR. An interlining in a collar gives a more mannish effect. It may be used or not according to the degree of mannishness of the waist.

If a detached collar is desired, cut two sections and an interlining by the collar pattern. Stitch together on the outside edges. Turn, and baste the bottom of the collar and its band with the seam toward the wrong side, and then stitch. Hem the outer edge over to the line of stitching. Stitch around the outside of the collar and work buttonholes corresponding to those on the neckband of the shirt-waist.