Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/51

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CHAPTER 9

SKIRTS FOR LADIES AND MISSES

Skirt Patterns—Pattern Alterations—Cutting—Foundation or Drop Skirt—Inside Belt—Putting the Skirt Together—Alterations—Hanging a Gored Skirt—Hanging a Circular Skirt—Altering the Length of a Gored Skirt—Placket—Finish of Seams—Seam Allowance at Top of Skirt—Finish of Skirt

THE SKIRT PATTERN should be bought by the hip measure. (Chapter 2, page 11, instructions on getting the right-size patterns.)

PATTERN ALTERATIONS. Before cutting your material compare the waist measure given on the pattern (envelope with your own waist measure, and if it is too large or too small it can be altered according to instructions given in Chapter 2, page 11.

Compare the front length of the pattern below the regulation waistline with the length you want to make your marked skirt. You will the front length of the pattern given on the pattern envelope. The regulation waistline is marked on the pattern. If the pattern is too long or too short for you, alter the length as explained in Chapter 3, pages 22 and 23. When you decide on the length of your skirt, you must also decide whether you will finish it with a hem or facing. Advice on the use of hems and facings is given in Chapters 18 and 19. If you are a woman of average height, you will have to make an allowance for tile hem in cutting. Ladies' patterns do not allow for hems except in special instances. If you are shorter than the average, the skirt pattern may be sufficiently long to allow for the hem. Misses' patterns give a three-inch-hem allowance. In the case of a tall girl, or of a small woman who is using a misses' pattern, it may he necessary to make an additional hem allowance if a hem is used.

If your figure is irregular in any way, if you have prominent hips or a prominent abdomen, etc., the skirt pattern should w altered as explained in Chapter 5, pages 28–30.

CUTTING. Before cutting your material read Chapter (on Materials, Sponging, Steaming, Cutting, etc.

Lay the pattern on the material according to the Deltor layouts included in the pattern. If the pattern does not contain a Deltor, follow the cutting instructions given with the pattern. If you are not familiar with perforations and their uses, read Chapter 2, pages 15 to 18.

Cutout the skirt following the advice given in Chapter (i. Mark all the perforations with tailors' tacks. (Chapter 16, page 85.)

The notches can either be clipped or marked with two or three stitches in basting-cotton. If you clip them, cut them so that you can see them distinctly, but do not make them any deeper than necessary.

For your wash skirt the inside belt should be shrunken before it is used.

FOUNDATION OR DROP SKIRT. China silk is the best and most satisfactory material for the foundation or drop skirt. However, for wearing qualities many women prefer some of the lining materials which are mixtures of silk and cotton, or the better grades of perealine.

For the transparent materials such as lace, net, chiffon, Georgette or silk voile, Brussels net is the best material for the foundation or the drop skirt.

If the pattern has a foundation skirt it should be made before the skirt itself. The Deltor or Illustrated Instructions will show you, with pictures how to make the drop skirt. Then make the outside skirt, tunic or drapery, following the Deltor or Illustrated Instructions.

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