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The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0090.jpg

Ill. 90. Setting in the Sleeve

to sew the rating badge on the sleeve properly. Close the underarm seams and the sleeve seams as notched, using flat felled seams. (Chapter 17, page 87.)

A hem is turned at the bottom of the blouse and if the pattern instructions direct, an elastic is inserted to hold the blouse in place.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0091.pngIll. 91. Basting on Collar THE COLLAR is joined to the neck with the seam toward the inside. (Ill. 91.) The collar is marked with notches showing where it joins the blouse, and in basting it on, the edge should be stretched between the notches to fit the corresponding edge of the blouse, thus causing the collar to roll closely about the neck. The outer edges are turned under three-eights of an inch and basted down. At the end of the slash in front, the turned-under portion tapes away to a point.

The outer facing is placed on the collar so carefully that the roll of the facing and collar will come exactly together and the ends are slipped under the fronts. (Ill. 92.) Baste along the roll. The neck edge of the facing is stretched sufficiently to make it lie smoothly when the collar is rolled back. After pinning the collar facing around the neck and down the front, roll the collar and facing over and roll the fronts back. Put your hand under the collar and smooth it outward, so that it does