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not wrinkle on the collar facing.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0092.pngIll. 92. Adjusting the Collar Facing Turn the edge of the collar facing under, even with the collar. Baste the collar and the facing together across the bottom and sides up to the seam joining the collar and blouse. From that point down, take out the pins that hold the collar facing to the blouse.

The collar facing is trimmed with three rows of linen tape, set its own width apart and stitched on both edges. If you sew the tape on the collar facing after the latter is on the blouse, the stitching will show on the front of your yoke. Across the back of the collar it makes no difference, for the facing is on top, and the stitching underneath. Baste the linen tape carefully to the collar facing and stitch it on both edges.

After it has been stitched, the collar facing can be basted in place under the front. A row of stitching as close to the edge as possible should run around the entire outer edge. The inner edge of the collar facing must be turned under three-eighths of an inch. Wherever it is necessary, it must be clipped, or eased, like the edge of the yoke. After the edge is turned under, it is basted to the blouse. Across the back of the neck it is felled to the blouse, covering the seam, but down the fronts it is stitch with two rows of machine stitching, which makes a pretty decoration on the front of the blouse.

THE SHIELD is cut in one piece and may be simply hemmed, or, if preferred, lined throughout with lawn or cambric. It is trimmed with an emblem or star.

After both blouse and shield are finished, it is practical to make a few buttonholes along the neckline of the body part, under the collar, sewing buttons in corresponding positions on the shield to prevent it from shifting around out of place. A crow's-foot may be made at the lower end of the neck opening in front (Chapter 25, Page 128) and makes a neat, strong finish.

EMBLEMS AND CHEVRONS in the various groups, or sets of anchors, bars, eagles and stars, finished and ready to sew on can be bought, but they are never as satisfactory as the designs that can be stamped on the dress itself. Sometimes the figures are worked in the center of a piece of broadcloth or linen, which is cut square or oblong, or in shield shape, and attached to the sleeve with a row of catch-stitching.

The chevrons or stripes are not padded but should be made of strips of scarlet three-eighths of an inch wide, separated one-fourth inch and sewed on flat with an overlock stitch of scarlet silk on the edges.

In working the specialty marks and eagles, an easier plan than the one of cutting the figures out of pasteboard and working over them, is to baste a piece of canvas or crinoline on the wrong side of the material, and work right through it, cutting the edges of the canvas away after the figure has been completed.

Light-weight twisted embroidery silk, mercerized cotton, or a linen thread may be used to advantage, for in this work smoothness is the most desirable feature, and the threads should all be placed in such a way as to lie next to one another, but not overlap.

On suits of galatea, chambray, linen or any of the other cotton materials used for children's clothes, the work may be done with cotton, either plain or mercerized. This thread is more suitable than silk for suits which need frequent washing. The sleeve emblem