Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/69

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CHAPTER 13

HOUSE DRESSES. NEGLIGEES. KIMONOS. BATHROBES. APRONS. BATHING-SUITS AND ROMPERS

Patterns—Materials—Culling—Putting the Garment Together—Seams—Finish

THE PATTERN. Buy these patterns by the measure given on the envelope. This is the only measure necessary to consider in buying these patterns. When a design is cut in fewer sizes than usual it is because the garment is of a type which is more or less easy in fit, that is, it should not tit as closely as a dress. Never buy a pattern smaller than your measure.

In buying romper patterns buy them by the bust measure if the child is large or small for its age. Chapter 2 gives instructions for measuring ladies, misses, girls and children.

Many figures vary in the length of the waist, skirt and arm. Before cutting your material measure the figure at these places (Chapter 3, pages 19–23) and compare your measures with those of the pattern (Chapter 3, pages 19–23.) If the pattern is long or short for you, alter it as explained in Chapter 3. The proper place to alter each pattern is given in the Deltor on the pattern envelope.

MATERIALS. Read Chapter 5, page 32 on shrinking materials before cutting your material.

CUTTING. If you are not thoroughly familiar with Butterick patterns read Chapter 2. Lay your pattern on the material following the layout given in the Deltor for your size, width of material and the view of the pattern that you are going to use. If no Deltor is given with the pattern follow the cutting instructions on the pattern envelope.

After cutting out the garment mark all the working perforations with tailors' tacks. (Chapter 16. page 83).) The best way to mark the notches is to take two or three stitches in basting cotton for each notch, or the notches may be clipped, in which case do not make them any deeper than is necessary to see them distinctly.

PUTTING THE GARMENT TOGETHER. The Deltor or Illustrated Instructions will show you with pictures exactly how to put the garment together.

Try the garment on and if any slight alteration is necessary, make it at the place provided for alterations in the pattern. Baste in the alteration, try the garment on again and stitch the seams.

The materials suitable for each class of garment in this chapter, and the correct finish for each garment are given below:

HOUSE DRESSES

MATERIALS. The materials most used for house dresses are gingham, chambray, cotton poplin, madras, seersucker, linen-finished cotton materials and striped cottons.

THE FINISH FOR HOUSE DRESSES must be suitable for hard wear and frequent laundering. The seams may be finished with flat-stitched seams (Chapter 17, page 87) or with French seams (page 86).

Armholes should be finished with flat stitched seams (page 87) or overcast (page 82). The finish of the edges and the trimming of house dresses change from lime to time as new ideas are introduced. The Deltor gives the newest finish for this type of garment.

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