Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/70

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THE NEW DRESSMAKER

NEGLIGEES, KIMONOS. ETC.

MATERALS. Crêpe de Chine, Georgette crêpe, lace, wash silk, wash satin, silk mull, silk and cotton crêpe de Chine. cotton voile, dotted swiss, wool batiste, wool albatross and challis, are the materials most used for negligees or Kimonos. Corduroy is used for warm wrappers.

The choice of the materials depends on the dressiness of the negligee, etc.. the use it is to be put to or the need of the woman who is to wear it. Tea gowns in dainty materials and attractive colors are used by many women for tea, luncheon, and dinner at home with their intimate friends.

SEAMS. For all materials except corduroy French seams are used (Chapter 17. page 86). For corduroy use flat-stitched seams (Chapter 17. page 87) unless the Wrapper, etc., is lined. In that case use plain seams and press them open.

The nicest corduroy negligees are lined with a thin silk. China silk makes the best lining.

In a more elegant negligee of crêpe de Chine, Georgette crêpe or silk mull, the seams may he machine hemstitched. (Chapter 25, page 118.)

THE EDGE FINISH AND TRIMMING will be found in the Deltor. The styles, trimmings and finish change constantly and the newest ideas suitable for each design are given in the Deltor.

BATHROBES

MATERIALS. The materials must used for bathrobes are blanket robing, blankets, eidor-down, flannel, flannelet and corduroy for warm bathrobes. When warmth is not essential terry cloth makes a very satisfactory bathrobe.

THE SEAMS. In heavy materials such as blanket cloth, blankets and eider-down, if the fabric does not fray, seam edges may be turned to one side and stitched again ¼ or ⅜ of an inch from the seam stitching. The edges are then cut off close to this stitching. If the material does fray trim the seam edges down to ⅜ of an inch width and bind the edges separately with lining material. Turn both edges to one side and stitch them through the garment along the inner edge of the binding.

In flannelet French seams (page 86) may be used.

Flat-stitched seams (page 87) nay be used in any of the materials mentioned.

The lower edge and armholes are finished like the other seams except where French seams are used. In that case use a regular hem at the lower edge of the bathrobe.

In joining the collar to the neck if the material is bulky stitch the under section of the collar to the neck with the seam toward the wrong side of the robe. Clip the seam to prevent its drawing the neck and turn it up. Cut off the seam allowance on the neck edge at the outside section of the collar and find it. Baste and stitch it to the neck of the bathrode over the first sewing, stitching along the inner edge of the binding.

THE EDGE FINISH AND TRIMMING will be found in the Deltor.

APRONS

MATERIALS. Gingham, chambray, percale, madras, seersucker, linen-finished cottons, flowered sateen and cretonnes are the material most used for aprons.

THE FINISH of aprons like the finish of house dresses must be made to stand hard wear and frequent laundering. In bungalow aprons use flat-stitched seams (page 87). French seams (page 86) may also be used for bungalow aprons and other aprons.

THE EDGE FINISH OR TRIMMING will be found in the Deltor. Now that modern conveniences have made it possible for so many women to do their own housework there is more interest in aprons and new ideas in trimmings are introduced each season. The Deltor gives the newest and most attractive finish for each design.