Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/74

From Wikisource
Jump to navigation Jump to search
This page has been proofread, but needs to be validated.
70
THE NEW DRESSMAKER

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0113+0114.pngIll. 113. and 114. Taping the Bloomer Seams close to the inner edge of the binding. This type of binding is more serviceable than ribbon binding for a garment that is to receive hard wear.

TAPING SEAMS. If the bloomers are used for gymnasium the strain on the seams will be very great. They can be reenforced with firm black linen or cotton tape about ⅜ of an inch wide. Baste this tape directly at the center of the seam on the inside of the garment and stitch through the tape, seam and garment close to each seam edge. (Ill. 113.) This will give the effect of a tailored seam from the outside as shown in Illustration 114. Be sure the tape is in one continuous piece from waistline in front to the waistline in back and from the lower edge of one leg to the lower edge of the other.

TRIMMINGS. The daintiest and at the same time the most effective trimming for lingerie is hand-embroidery. It is used on all the most beautiful French underwear, and is very lovely to look at, and yet adds very little to the cost of the garment. It is the only trimming that does not wear out, and it never requires mending. For every-day wear the simple scallops and eyelets which can be used in place of beading are very satisfactory. More elaborate designs can be used on finer lingerie for evening wear, etc. One can get very beautiful effects by combining hand-embroidery with lace. All the best designs of different kinds of embroideries suitable for underwear are to be had in Butterick transfers which are illustrated in Needle-Art.

Tucking made either by hand or by machine is used on all types of underwear. It may be either plain or fancy tucking. (Chapter 20, page 97.)

DOUBLE bands of net or Georgette are hemstitched to underwear of silk or batiste to finish the edges and to form a finish and also a casing for a ribbon. They are also set in garments below the hems, and have ribbon run through them. Satin bands are used on garments of Georgette, net, silk muslin, etc.

NOVELTY braids, particularly rickrack, are stitched to the edges of garments. They form a beading as well as a finish for the edge, since the points are only caught on one side of the braid.

MEDALLIONS of silk, Georgette and net, many of them embroidered, are set in garments of a contrasting material.

NARROW crocheted edges, often forming a beading, are used on many of the better class of undergarments in all materials, even satin. Needle-Art gives these edges both in crochet and tatting.

CROSS overcasting and double overcasting (Chapter 25, page 124) such as are used as a trimming in waists and dresses are also used as a trimming on underwear of Georgette, batiste, nainsook and silk muslin.

SHAPED hems and facings are used at the edges of garments of all materials. They may be made of either the material of the undergarment or of contrasting material, and are either set in with machine hemstitching ( Chapter 25, page 118) or else are feather-stitched in place (page 126). These hems and facings may be shaped at either the inner or outer edge. Rows of narrow bias bands of the same material or of contrasting material are used around necks and at the lower edges of flounces. They are very pretty in fine striped or checked material on a plain material and are stitched on by machine or hemstitched.

DRAWN-WORK and hemstitching are very lovely on handkerchief linen, batiste and voile, and are used a good deal on the better class of French underwear. They are very dainty.