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thread. The design can be stamped along the outline and cut out after the embroidery is finished.

The petticoat joined to a body is shown in illustrations 119 and 120.

The petticoat is finished in French seams. The upper edge is gathered with fine stitches and joined to the body after the placket has been hemmed with a very narrow hem on one side, and one three-quarters of an inch wide on the other (Ill. 118). Lap the wide hem over the narrow (Ill. 118), and tack firmly at the bottom of the placket with two rows of machine stitching, preferably running slanting (Ill. 118).

The body is either cut single of flannel or cambric and faced at the neck and armhole after the shoulder and underarm are joined in a French seam (Ill. 119), or cut of two layers of cambric, one serving as the lining (Ill. 120).

If a single body is used the seam joining the body and skirt is made toward the inside. A bias strip of cambric is placed next to the petticoat in the same seam, which is then stitched, turned over and hemmed to the body (Ill. 119).

If made double, stitch the under-arm seams of both outside and lining; place the right sides of the material together and stitch all except the lower edge and shoulder seams. Clip the curved edges, turn the body right side out and crease along the sewing line. It may be stitched again on the outside to strengthen the edges and hold the seams in position. The top of the petticoat is gathered and basted to the lining with the seam toward the inside (Ill. 120). Turn this seam up on the body; turn in the edge of the outside piece and stitch it over the gathers, covering all previous stitchings (Ill. 120). The shoulders are stitched in a fell seam. (Chapter 17, page 86.)

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0121.pngIll. 121. A Pinning Blanket with Tie Ends A BARRIECOAT OR PINNING BLANKET is an open front petticoat made of flannel and sometimes used in place of a flannel petticoat. Its ends can be turned up and pinned to keep the baby's feet warm. Hospitals and doctors do not approve of it, for it prevents the baby from kicking and strengthening its legs. The front and lower edges are turned in hems and feather-stitched on the outside. (See Ill. 121.)

The body is cut from fine cambric, and though the edges may be bound or faced, it is better to make the body double. Join the shoulder edges of both the outside and inside, and press the seams open. Lay the two body portions evenly together, with the shoulder seams of both toward the outside. Stitch a seam around the upper edge and across the part of the lower edge not sewed to the skirt. The ends are left open until the tape is inserted. The body is stitched where it is sewed to the skirt after the skirt is joined to it. After they are stitched, the two body parts are turned to bring the seam edges inside. The edges at the pointed ends are turned in and the end of the piece of tape is slipped into each opening. Gather the skirt and join it to the body as shown in Illustration 121. Baste around the armhole about one inch from the edge to keep the two portions evenly together. Clip the raw edges and turn one in a seam's width and baste it; then turn the other edge in and baste it to the first. Stitch or overhand the two folded edges together to finish the armhole. The edges of the body portion should be basted and then feather-stitched. Baste about an inch each side of the perforations that indicate the opening to be made at the right side. Cut through the perforations and bind the opening with soft ribbon or silk tape. If preferred, the skirt may be mounted on a straight band, made double, instead of on the shaped body. The straight band can be lapped and pinned.

WHITE PETTICOATS—Here again the princess style is the best though the petticoat gathered to a band or body is also used. White petticoats are made of batiste or nainsook