Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/81

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MATERNITY CLOTHES
77

Ill. 122. The Slip or cambric, and are trimmed with tucks (Chapter 20), feather-stitching (Chapter 25), French knots, or with ruffles edged with lace or with ruffles of embroidery (Chapter 27) or a deep hem (Chapter 18).

SLIPS—Day slips are made of batiste, nainsook, lawn, fine cambric or cross-barred dimity trimmed simply with a little narrow lace at the neck and sleeves. Babies wear them in place of dresses most of the time, for under afghans and blankets a dress shows very little.

Night slips are made like the day slips but without the lace and are usually of fine cambric (Ill. 122). Many hospitals use a flannel nightgown which is worn in place of the nightslip and flannel petticoat.

Ill. 123. Finish of Closing A slip should be put together with narrow French seams. In the model shown in Ill. 122, the neck is finished with a bias binding. A narrow tape is run through the binding so that the neck can be drawn up to the right size when the slip is worn. Make an eyelet in the outside of the neck-binding just in front of the underlapping hem. Pass the ribbon through this opening so that it will meet the other end that comes from the opening of the overlapping hem (Ill. 122).

The neck and sleeves, which should be gathered into narrow-bands at the bottom, may be edged with a frill of lace. The back is cut down through the center to the depth given for the opening in the pattern instructions. Each edge of the opening is finished with a tiny hem. A plait is then made deep enough to bring the opening back one-half inch from the edge (Ill. 123). It is held in place by a slanting row of stitching at the end of the opening.

DRESSES—The baby will need a handsome dress for christening robe made of lawn, nainsook, batiste or handkerchief linen. The christening robe is generally made with a yoke and panel in front and this part of the dress can be of all-over tucking, or very fine embroidery. The simpler dresses are made of lawn, nainsook, dimity and batiste and are trimmed with smocking, hemstitching, featherstitching, French knots and tucks. Fine little dresses are made of batiste, fine nainsook and handkerchief linen usually with a small embroidered yoke and with an embroidered or lace-trimmed ruffle at the bottom.

A DAINTY YOKE may be made by over-handing together alternating rows of lace insertion and embroidery insertion.

Fine tucking rolled and whipped to lace insertion also makes a pretty yoke.

Narrow seaming or hemstitched beading may be used to join the yoke to the dress. The material on each side of the seaming should be rolled and whipped (Ill. 311, page 134), to the yoke on one side and the dress on the other. Or the seaming can be joined to the dress and yoke with tiny French seams.

The shoulder seams may be joined with the seaming in the same way, and the seaming may be used as a finish for the neck and sleeves. The material on the lower edge of the seaming should be joined to the neck and sleeve edges as described above. The material on the outer edge of the seaming should be cut away close to the seaming and a narrow French valenciennes lace whipped to the seaming to finish the neck and sleeves. This makes a dainty finish.

Baby clothes should be made entirely by hand and in the dresses the seams should be put together with narrow French seams or fine entre-deux. (Chapter 27, Ill. 307.) For