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78
THE NEW DRESSMAKER

special occasions the baby's dresses can be trimmed with shoulder bows and rosettes of blue, pink or corn color.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0124.pngIll. 124. How Lining and Interlining Are Used COATS—Even in Winter very little babies go out of doors when the temperature is 40 degrees or over. For Winter the coat should be of silk or wool Bedford cord, silk or wool cashmere, Henrietta or very fine corduroy. In these materials the coat is trimmed with stitched bands of taffeta, swan's down, embroidery or suitable lace. It should be lined with soft silk, China silk or fine sateen and for cold weather or a cold climate it will need an interlining of fine wool or fine silk or a soft flannel. These coats are always white.

If wool interlining is used the wool is picked away from the cheese-cloth around the seams to avoid bulkiness.

It should be cut without the seam and hem allowance. Instead of making the regular seam, draw the shoulder and underarm edges together with a loose overhand or ball-stitch, (page 147, Ill. 351) making them lie perfectly flat. (Ill. 124.) The outside of the coat is turned under at the bottom and catch-stitched to the interlining.

The Lining is cut like the outside and seamed in a regular seam, which is afterward pressed open. Place the seams toward the inside and baste the The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0125.pngIll. 125. Detail of Sleeve Lining lining to the coat. The lining at the bottom of the coat should be one-half inch shorter than the coat after its lower edge has been turned up. (Ill. 124.)

Place the lining in the sleeves; gather sleeve and lining separately at the top. Stitch the sleeve in the coat leaving the lining loose. (Ill. 125.) Later it is hemmed down over the stitching of the armhole.

The Collar is made unlined, with a facing of the lining material. It is stitched to the neck of the coat, and the lining of the coat hemmed against this stitching. If the coat has a cape it is sewed on like the collar.

For Summer very dainty coats are made of batiste, dotted swiss, handkerchief linen or crêpe de Chine over a lining of white, pale pink or pale blue China silk. They are trimmed with hand embroidery in small fine patterns and with lace.

Piqué and henrietta could also be used for Summer baby coats. The lower and front edges may be hemmed by hand or held in place by machine stitching on the outside. The same finish is carried out at the neck and wrist.

CAPS—For Winter the cap matches the coat in material and trimming, or if you prefer you can use lingerie caps over a padded silk lining of white, pale pink or pale blue China