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CHAPTER 16

SEWING STITCHES

Knots—Bastings—Even Bastings—Uneven Bastings—Combination Bastings—Diagonal Bastings—Running Stich—Backstitch—The Half Backstitch—The Combination Stitch—Overcasting—Overhanding—Catch-Stitch—Slant Hemming Stitch—Straight Hemming Stitch—Blind Hemming—Slip Stitch—Loose French Tacks —Tailors' Tacks

TO MAKE A KNOT, hold the threaded needle in the right hand. Take the end of the thread between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, stretching the thread tightly. Wind it around the top of the first finger, crossing it over the end held between the finger and thumb. Roll the first finger down the ball of the thumb about half an inch, carrying the thread with it, and with the second finger push the knot thus formed to the end of the thread. If a larger knot is required, wind the thread around the finger twice.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0128.pngIll. 128. Even Bastings

BASTINGS are temporary stitches used to hold two or more pieces of material together while putting in the permanent stitches. The thread should be smooth and rather fine. Careful basting is essential to successful sewing and dressmaking. There are four kinds of bastings.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0129.pngIll. 129. Uneven Bastings

EVEN BASTINGS start with a knot on the right side so that they may be easily removed. Pass the needle over and through the material, making the stitches and spaces the same length. To fasten the thread, take two stitches over the last one made. (Ill. 128.)

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0130.pngIll. 130. Combination Bastings

UNEVEN BASTINGS are made by the method just described for even bastings, except that the stitches and spaces are of unequal length. The stitches taken upon the needle are about a third shorter than the space covered by the thread. (Ill. 129.)

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0131.pngIll. 131. Diagonal Bastings

COMBINATION BASTINGS are used on seams where extra firmness is desired for close fitting. They are made by taking alternately, one long stitch and two short stitches. (Ill. 130.)

DIAGONAL BASTINGS are slanting stitches used in dressmaking and tailoring to secure the outside material to its lining, particularly where the lining

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