Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/88

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THE NEW DRESSMAKER

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0142.pngIll. 142. Straight Hemming invisible stitches on the right side and stitches of an even length on the wrong side. Don't draw the thread tight, or leave it loose, and always use a fine needle and thread.

THE STRAIGHT HEMMING STITCH is used where an edge is to be held close with stitches that should show as little as possible. Start it the same way as the slanting hemming stitch.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0143.pngIll. 143. Blind Hemming

Insert the needle into the material as close to where you brought the thread through as possible, bringing the needle up in a slanting position under the hem and bringing it out through the fold of the hem close to the edge. (Ill. 142.) This is the stitch that is preferred by tailors for felling linings in coats, etc., for the stitches show less than in the slanting stitch.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0144.pngIll. 144. Slip-Stitching

BLIND HEMMING is used when an invisible sewing is required to hold hems or facings on silk or wool. It is done more quickly than slip-stitching and is just as invisible on the right side of the garment. Only take up part of the thread in the material and insert the needle in a fold of the hem using a rather long slanting stitch between the stitches. (Ill. 143.) It is not a strong sewing but in many cases is used on silk and wool.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0145.pngIll. 145. Method of Making French Tack

SLIP-STITCHING is used when invisible sewing is required for holding hems, facings, trimmings, etc. It is not a strong sewing, but it is one of the most valuable stitches for finishing work in silk or wool. In this stitch it is necessary to take up only part of the thread in the material. This is what makes it invisible on the right side. The stitches should be taken as far apart as will hold the edge in place. Let the needle slip through the under side of the fold of the hem between the stitches and bring it out through the crease of the fold. (Ill. 144.) That is why it is called the slip-stitch.

LOOSE FRENCH TACKS. They are made by taking a small stitch in the garment and one in the portion which is to be tacked to the garment, leaving a half-inch or more of thread between. Pass the needle back and forth once more, putting it into the same place, and then work several loose buttonhole-stitches back over the three strands of the silk thread. (Ill. 145.)