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The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0138.pngIll. 138. Catch-Stitch

OVERHANDING, top, or oversewing, as it is sometimes called, is used to join folded edges or selvedges. (Ill. 137.) Baste the pieces with the folds or selvedges exactly even and sew with close stitches over and over the edges, taking up as few threads as possible, so that when finished the seam will be smooth and flat and not form an awkward ridge or cord on the wrong side of the garment.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0139.pngIll. 139. Catch-Stitch on Open Seam

CATCH-STITCH, sometimes called cat-stitch, is a cross-stitch used to hold down seam edges. It is the preferred finish for the seams of flannel garments, for it does away with the clumsiness of a French or felled seam, takes the place of overcasting and prevents raveling.

Place the edges together and run a seam, taking an occasional backstitch. Trim off one edge close to the line of sewing and press the other edge flatly over it, holding the work as shown in Illustration 138.

Make a knot and insert the needle under the edge at the lower left corner, cross the edge and take a small stitch a few threads to the right. Cross back again and insert the needle, taking a similar stitch through all the thicknesses of the material.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0140.pngIll. 140. Catch-Stitch Used in Dressmaking and Millinery

Always point the needle to the left and make the cross-stitches encase the raw edges. The stitch is done from left to right. If preferred, these seams may be pressed open and catch stitched, working the stitches over the raw edge at each side of the seam, thus holding both down as shown in Illustration 139.

A quicker method of catch-stitching is shown in Illustration 140. This stitch has not the strength of the first method and is only used in millinery and in dressmaking where the work is concealed. This style of catch-stitching is done from right to left.

THE SLANT HEMMING STITCH is used to hold in place hems, facings, fells, etc. Each stitch slants on both the right and wrong side of the material. (Ill. 141.) Place the hem over the forefinger and under the middle finger of the left hand and hold it down with the thumb. Begin at the right hand and insert the needle through the fold leaving a short end of the thread to be caught under the stitches.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0141.pngIll. 141. Slant Hemming Stitch

Pointing the needle toward the left shoulder take a slanting stitch, taking up one or two threads of the material and the fold of the hem. At the end of the hem fasten the thread by taking two or three stitches on top of each other.

If a new thread is needed start as at the beginning, tucking both the ends of the new and old threads under the fold of the hem and secure them with the hemming stitches.

In hemming train the eye to keep the stitches even and true, take very small, almost