How to draft the one-piece shaped sleeve,using the arm-hole of the dress foundation (size 16) as a guides
The cap height measurement A to C,as shown in diagram I, equals 1/3 of the armhole circumference plus 1/2". This applies to all misses and junior sizes.
The sleeve provides for a 2" ease around the arm, about 1" below armhole,
An image should appear at this position in the text.
I
Trace outline of dress front and back (hip length), with sides together at bust and hip lines.
A to B - Square line across from center back line, touching lowest part of armhole.
A to C - 6" ---- Cap height. Square tine across at C,
D ----- Locate point D on front armhole, half way between lines A and C.
D to E - 1",
F ----- Locate, point F on back armhole, half way between lines A and C, fess 1/2",
F to G - 1",
II
H to I - 17 - Draw a Straight tine down between the side seam lines of front and back; then square a line across at lower end on both sides of point I.
I to J- 17-3/4 - Extend line 3/4" above H.
K ----- Center between J and I.
L to M - 5-1/2. - Square a line from K to L and K to M 2-3/4" each side of K,
IV
N to O - Draw line through L and E. P to Q - Draw line through M and G.
V
GUIDE LINES FOR SLEEVE CAP
R ----- Center between O and Q. S ----- Center between O and R. T ----- Center between R and Q. V ----- Center between U and H. Draw quide lines, from S to E to V; then from T to G to 1" from H,
VI
SLEEVE CAP
Curve a line from G to R to E; then From E to J to G
VII
SHAPING THE SLEEVE
Shape sleeve as follows:
N to W - 1/2"
L to W - Connect.
W to X - 3-1/2", bringing point X, 1/2" below line N-P,
M to X - Connect.
VIII
FRONT OF SLEEVE
Y ----- Center between W-X,
K to Y - Connect.
Form front of sleeve as follows:
Fold paper on line E-L and trace from E to J to K; then open paper and fold again on line L-W. Trace from K to ¥ to W and open paper,
IX
BACK OF SLEEVE
For back of sleeve, repeat process of diagram VIII but begin tracing from G to J; etc,
X
BACK DART
In opening the sleeve, the back edge becomes about 1-1/4" longer than front edge,
Draw Y-shaped: dart at elbow about 3" long and 1-1/4" wide.
No seams are allowed.
